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Oil scavenging systems for twin turbo setup

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Oil scavenging systems for twin turbo setup
Old January 18th, 2020, 10:46 PM   #1
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Oil scavenging systems for twin turbo setup

Anyone have any info they can share about their own setup? I just ran into problems afer starting mine and driving it around the block with the dreaded smoking issues.

Im running gear driven pump and running 6an from turbos to a Y fitting and the into a single pump and then up to the valve cover. I HAD a check valve with very very low crack pressure between the outlet of the pump and the valve cover to prevent back flow but removed it temporarily.

Right now i havnt had any time to really take the downpipes off yet, but one is showing some oil residue on teh heat wrap right off the turbine housing. My only guess so far with out looking is that its leaking pass the turbine seal probably.

Anyhow, if anyone has tips or pictures of their setup that works smoke free without issues id love to see it and compare to see what i might have setup wrong perhaps.
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Old January 19th, 2020, 02:42 AM   #2
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In addition, a check valve on the oil feed line to the turbos with higher cracking pressure should solve it. Probably as close to the turbos the better.
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Old January 19th, 2020, 01:47 PM   #3
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I’ve got a check valve at the side of the block where I tapped for oil feed. It’s not at the turbos but should still help.

I guess it would be nice to see how others routed their lines and pump and at what height the pump is along with size of lines and such
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Old January 19th, 2020, 02:32 PM   #4
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A long time ago,but still working. Last post in the thread for the layout.

https://www.viperalley.com/forum/gar...-scavenge.html
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Old January 19th, 2020, 04:54 PM   #5
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So, with your setup, where were the drain flanges from the turbos in relation to the frame rail? Were they about level with the bottom of the frame rail all said and done with the flange and hoses connected to them?

My theory here is that since i have the flange off the turbo and a 90 degree fitting that it hangs just a little bit too low and the pump might be a little higher than that thus causing some problems. I'm also running 6an line as others mentioned was a good idea.

Do you have any pictures of the bottom of your turbo setup with the oil lines in relation to the frame that you could post so i could see?
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Last edited by Lunchbox; January 19th, 2020 at 05:34 PM.
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Old January 19th, 2020, 07:42 PM   #6
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Fenderwell turbos using AN fittings and braided steel hose running evenly to the center of the skid plate into a "Y", then to the pump centered on the skid plate. Returned to an AN fitting tig welded in the pan. The key is the pump, in the beginning of the thread.
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Old January 19th, 2020, 09:11 PM   #7
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Fenderwell turbos using AN fittings and braided steel hose running evenly to the center of the skid plate into a "Y", then to the pump centered on the skid plate. Returned to an AN fitting tig welded in the pan. The key is the pump, in the beginning of the thread.
I assume the pump itself even bolted to the skid plate at the rear sits somewhat slightly higher than the drain flanges on those turbos probably just by looking at where the hose would have to come off the turbo and under the frame rail slightly and up onto the skid plate. If thats the case and it works out flawlessly then ill probably dump what i have and redo it with 10an and an exa pump.
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Old January 20th, 2020, 08:25 AM   #8
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My theory here is that since i have the flange off the turbo and a 90 degree fitting that it hangs just a little bit too low and the pump might be a little higher than that thus causing some problems. I'm also running 6an line as others mentioned was a good idea.
Oh man - I think you're headed for trouble having those lines below the bottom of the frame rails! Get 'em protected by the frame! You would probably be fine with drilling a neat hole through the horizontal centerline of the frame tube at the neutral axis to run the line through on each side. The hose should be supported and protected from chafing by either grommets or riveting a little piece of angle to the frame on each side under the tail of a good hose clamp.

Last edited by GTS Dean; January 20th, 2020 at 08:33 AM.
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Old January 20th, 2020, 09:37 AM   #9
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Yeah its not ideal at all with the fitting poking out like that. The lines i think might be ok being silicone and oil resistant and flexible but, yeah it's not the preferred setup. I didn't really want to cut into the frame rails to slide lines through, but now that i'm having to re-do the setup anyway (pump and lines) i'm considering it.

Just ordered a set of these T3/T4 Side exit oil drain flanges from huronspeed.com to try to gain more clearance and ditch the straight discharge t4 oil drain and 90 degree fitting. This might gain me another inch of clearance moving the drain upward slightly. Really wish i could have done gravity drain turbos, but they were a bit too large to move up anymore due to the compressor cover literally touching the top of the footwell and also having it positioned in a decent spot for downpipe discharge to feed through the rocker.
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Old January 20th, 2020, 01:03 PM   #10
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Impact protection!!!! You can't see and avoid every obstacle in your path. Can't you rotate the compressor and turbine housings to tilt the drain flange very slightly upward?
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Old January 20th, 2020, 03:08 PM   #11
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Impact protection!!!! You can't see and avoid every obstacle in your path. Can't you rotate the compressor and turbine housings to tilt the drain flange very slightly upward?
Yeah that is absolutely a concern. I Tried to rotate the compressor cover and CHRA in relation to the turbine housing as much as I could. I MIGHT be able to rotate the CHRA and keep the compressor cover and turbine housing in the same location and add a few more degrees to it. From what i've found i shouldn't really rotate it any more than a max of 30 degrees. Any more and it starts to obviously affect drainage. Right now they are effectively leveled out and there hasnt been any real major clocking of the CHRA just yet.

Removing the 90 degree fittings and straight discharge oil flange and replacing with the side exit 10an flanges should help gain some clearance. Any suggestions on locations for drilling holes in the frame to pass the hoses through? Is there a preferred and ideal place to do it? Ive seen some pictures but it varies on location that a few have done it. Also would it be wise to drill a little larger and then pass a piece of steel pipe through it and weld it into place to help re-enforce? or is that UN-necessary depending on the location?

Last edited by Lunchbox; January 20th, 2020 at 10:26 PM.
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Old January 20th, 2020, 03:35 PM   #12
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A welded pass-thru tube is a great idea, but may be tough. The 4 notches in the frame longitudinal are at the engineered crumple zone. I'd stay 6" away and try to go thru the horizontal CL of the tube. You might get by with AN-8 hose, but -6 is too small. Another option is a pipe nipple with pipe-AN male flare adapters screwed or brazed on each end thru the frame. More connections, but smaller hole required and no hose braid sawing.
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Old January 20th, 2020, 04:38 PM   #13
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I assume the pump itself even bolted to the skid plate at the rear sits somewhat slightly higher than the drain flanges on those turbos probably just by looking at where the hose would have to come off the turbo and under the frame rail slightly and up onto the skid plate. If thats the case and it works out flawlessly then ill probably dump what i have and redo it with 10an and an exa pump.
Mounted to skid plate.
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Old January 20th, 2020, 04:56 PM   #14
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Old January 20th, 2020, 08:34 PM   #15
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I went through several iterations before I found a setup that worked for me.

My scavenge pump is mounted right behind the fog light.
I have small scavenge tanks mounted right behind each turbo.
-10AN from each scavenge tank back to the pump.
-10AN from the pump to the oil pan
Check valve between the pump and the pan
Check valve on the side of the block for the line that feeds the turbos


I fooled around forever with line routing, sizes, check valves. The only thing that stopped my smoking were the scavenge tanks.

Just food for though.
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Old January 20th, 2020, 09:31 PM   #16
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I went through several iterations before I found a setup that worked for me.

My scavenge pump is mounted right behind the fog light.
I have small scavenge tanks mounted right behind each turbo.
-10AN from each scavenge tank back to the pump.
-10AN from the pump to the oil pan
Check valve between the pump and the pan
Check valve on the side of the block for the line that feeds the turbos


I fooled around forever with line routing, sizes, check valves. The only thing that stopped my smoking were the scavenge tanks.

Just food for though.
Where did you have the scavenge tanks mounted behind each turbo? custom fabbed and bolted to the turbo as a drain flange assembly/tank? or actual separate tanks mounted just behind them in the footwell? Any pictures?

Last edited by Lunchbox; January 20th, 2020 at 10:29 PM.
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Old January 20th, 2020, 09:32 PM   #17
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Thnx for the link. Much appreciated! Seems to be the best price so far that i've seen.
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Old January 21st, 2020, 08:28 AM   #18
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Where did you have the scavenge tanks mounted behind each turbo? custom fabbed and bolted to the turbo as a drain flange assembly/tank? or actual separate tanks mounted just behind them in the footwell? Any pictures?
They are custom fabbed and sit right behind the turbos in the footwell. Imagine a wedge shaped box behind each one. I have a 90 degree fitting on the turbo and it attaches right to each box.

I'll have to dig for some pictures when I get back home.
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Old January 22nd, 2020, 05:47 PM   #19
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Passenger side turbo. Picture is shot from passenger side just behind the front wheel. The -10AN line exits on the other side of the tank.
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Old January 22nd, 2020, 10:33 PM   #20
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Ah ok, makes sense. Im going to try the 10AN and exa pump on the skid plate with a re-route of lines and the slim 10an side exit flanges as mentioned here and if no good results come from it, then i guess ill have to try the surge tank boxes behind the turbos.
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