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Gas leaking through fuel pump wire. Seriously.

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Gas leaking through fuel pump wire. Seriously.
Old January 9th, 2020, 12:40 AM   #1
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Gas leaking through fuel pump wire. Seriously.

I recently replaced the fuel cap since the old one was cracked. I started smelling gas in the garage and traced it to the top of the sender/fuel pump access cover. It wasn't leaking from the fuel lines (that would be too easy), it was coming up through the wires into the connectors- both the wires for the pumps and the sending unit. It stops if I loosen the cap and release the pressure.
I tried sealing the wires in the tank. The usual gasket stuff- grey, black, blue or red, aren't supposed to be used when in direct contact with fuel. About the only stuff that's 'approved' for that is fuel tank epoxy. It doesn't work so well for sealing- it's still leaking, but now only from the pump wires.

Sooo, aside from hitting the gas cap with a hammer to get a crack back in it or not putting any gas in the tank, what is the right way to fix this? Maybe try replacing the wires? They aren't old- less than 3 years since the RSI hanger and pumps were installed.
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Old January 9th, 2020, 06:42 AM   #2
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Personally, seems like your evac system needs some work. Must be some blockage in the lines/charcoal canister system or something pertaining to those componenets. The evac system on the Viper is [fortuneatly] one of the things I haven't needed to mess with.
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Old January 9th, 2020, 08:57 AM   #3
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Personally, seems like your evac system needs some work. Must be some blockage in the lines/charcoal canister system or something pertaining to those componenets. The evac system on the Viper is [fortuneatly] one of the things I haven't needed to mess with.
This ^^

Id check the solenoid that controls evap purging and make sure the lines arent capped off or clogged for any reason. Make sure the solenoid actuates (might have to test manually). Also make sure the top line line from the solenoid is setup to connect back to the intake so that it sucks vapors out when the evap purge solenoid is activated/open. Solenoid should be behind drivers side of front bumper on the back side of the wheel arch trim just above and slightly to the right of the fog light access hole, two bolts hold it in and if you need a better view, pulling the front bumper cover might make it easier to see it all and check everything if you cant disconnect it and pull it out through the access hole. If its working as intended it should clear up your problem without a doubt.

You might take some of this info (which line off the solenoid and location maybe) with a grain of salt because i'm going based of an 01 and if your viper is another year it might be different possibly.

Last edited by Lunchbox; January 9th, 2020 at 09:03 AM.
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Old January 9th, 2020, 09:59 AM   #4
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Depending on the year of your car, I have a new pump assembly and if you need a new tank, got one of those too
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Old January 9th, 2020, 11:19 AM   #5
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If your tank is pressurizing due to heat, then I agree that your EVAP system is probably the culprit. The purge solenoid and canister moved from below the driver's headlight to behind rear passenger tire in around 2000 IIRC.
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Old January 9th, 2020, 12:29 PM   #6
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I do know on my '01 its behind the passenger rear wheel cover. Big mess of lines and all that stuff when I pulled the rear pumper cover off 10+ years ago....
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Old January 10th, 2020, 12:18 AM   #7
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I have no EVAP system, it was removed by a prior owner. Fuel was leaking out of one of the lines that went to it (driver's side behind the front bumper) so I capped that, that's actually when the wires probably started leaking. The only way that pressure gets out is through the gas cap- it seems to have pressure relief on it. I guess the relief pressure too high? Time to drill a hole in the gas cap?
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Old January 10th, 2020, 12:28 AM   #8
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I may have fixed it and found the real problem. I noticed that when the gas cap cover was opened (the external cover thing) that a bunch of pressure would be released. The nut holding the metal seal plate was pressing against the real gas cap. Yesterday I ground the nut down so it wasn't touching. Today there was no pressure release when I opened it and better yet, the wires and pump hanger area were dry
I guess I'm lucky the tank didn't split open...
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Old January 26th, 2020, 12:15 PM   #9
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Time re-opens all wounds.

It's leaking again, even with very little pressure in the tank. My plan now is to seal the ends of the wires in the tank with JB Weld or Kwik Weld. I'll do the same to the other wire ends too.

I don't understand how this can be a problem- even though the pumps are aftermarket, certainly whatever kind of wire/insulation is needed for being submerged in fuel was used. The curse of this car continues...

Maybe shrink tubing would seal it better?
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Old January 26th, 2020, 12:18 PM   #10
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The tank isn't getting pressurized due to heat- it's in the garage all the time and for the last few months it's been 50 degrees or less in there. It's just from the normal evaporation of the fuel.
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Old January 26th, 2020, 07:05 PM   #11
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If the tank is building pressure, it almost has to be from thermal expansion. Your EVAP system has something pinched/blocked or inoperative that is not allowing it to function normally. If it isn't ambient temperature, you may have have a fuel pump on the fritz that is heating the fuel in the tank and making vapor.
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Old January 26th, 2020, 09:43 PM   #12
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I don't have an EVAP system. The line that was going to it is capped.

So all of the extra pressure is supposed to vent through the charcoal canister? What do vehicles that don't have emissions do? Just vent it to the outside? I wish I have all that stuff, I really don't want to vent it like that.
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Old January 27th, 2020, 10:59 AM   #13
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I don't have an EVAP system. The line that was going to it is capped.

So all of the extra pressure is supposed to vent through the charcoal canister? What do vehicles that don't have emissions do? Just vent it to the outside? I wish I have all that stuff, I really don't want to vent it like that.
If you have no evap system, then someone probably either capped off the vent OR routed it to the charcoal canister and it could be plugged/blocked which seems likely based on the fact that you said its still building pressure.

You can vent it to atmosphere, but... i dont recommend that due to the dangerous situtations it could cause. Id personally opt to recir it via the oem setup. Gasoline vapors can be mega dangerous in more ways than one.

Start checking out places that recycle/part out vipers for the parts needed to get it working. You can easily map out the lines where they run and such and find diagrams.
You may have to rig something up since parts are getting harder to find these days.
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Old January 27th, 2020, 06:30 PM   #14
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I capped it, because fuel was coming out of it. There's no charcoal canister, everything emissions related was removed before I got it.

I would like to get that part of it working again as well (the EVAP & canister), but I'm not sure if the ECU I have (AEM Infinity) handles that stuff. It is pretty flexible so I could maybe make it work like the OEM computer does.
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Old January 28th, 2020, 07:24 AM   #15
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I recall that when these evap systems began to appear on cars in the 70's, they were passive in nature - no solenoids or moving parts to control. The canisters were connected to a vacuum port on the manifold, or the base of the carb. They still aren't very complex - using a poppet valve controlled by a solenoid to meter the fumes back into the engine under certain operating conditions.
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Old January 28th, 2020, 09:36 AM   #16
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Honestly, you probably could make a simple circuit with a hobbs pressure switch that once it detected say 1-2 psi of pressure on the line from the tank that it would then open and allow a complete circuit through from the tank to the charcoal canister then to the intake manifold to suck back in the vapors. This would be very very cheap to implement and easy assuming the charcoal canister is still in place. Might also be worth installing a luiqid/air separator if you're actually getting fuel through into the charcoal canister.
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Old January 28th, 2020, 11:43 AM   #17
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The solenoid control was the only part I thought might be tricky, but the infinity has lots of bells and whistles so it's probably not that hard.
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