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Change your battery
Old December 30th, 2019, 08:30 AM   #1
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Change your battery

It is weird how a weak battery affects these cars. My passenger door started malfunctioning. I thought it might be a stuck switch (happened before) but a day later my driver's side door started acting the same. All other electric worked, car started and ran fine. Remembering how finicky Vipers were regarding batteries I looked in my records and saw that the last time I replaced the battery was a little over three years ago. Swapped it out yesterday and now all is good.

Just an FYI reminder.
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Old December 30th, 2019, 11:05 AM   #2
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It is weird, no doubt.
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Old December 30th, 2019, 01:46 PM   #3
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What no load voltage reading is on the battery now?
Would have been good to see what voltage reading was on battery when hooked up and just sitting on car after about 2 hours of turning off the car.
Load test on the battery results was??
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Old January 14th, 2020, 04:14 PM   #4
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Old March 21st, 2020, 05:54 PM   #5
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Still have original battery in my 98 GTS garage queen.....always on trickle charger and still fires up and runs fine on times I do take it for a run.

My 2001 RT/10 battery is 7 years old. Use the car fairly frequently but today the power windows and turn signals wouldn't work and the parking brake , air bag and ABS light were illuminated on dash. Went around a turn and all went back to normal briefly. Shut car off to get gas and the same symptoms reappeared on restart. Drove for a bit and all good again....maybe time for a new battery.
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Old March 21st, 2020, 06:36 PM   #6
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My guess would be the battery had a shorted cell or something. You can still see 12V on it but as soon as you go to load test it, it'll fail.

Trickle charger here as well.
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Old March 25th, 2020, 04:34 PM   #7
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Your PCM monitors battery voltage for injector duty cycle offsets...aka at lower battery voltage it will keep your injectors on longer and likewise at higher voltages, it shortens injector duty cycle. The offsets are pretty significant if I recall, so cold start or hard starting on a drained battery is more than just a physical cranking issue. Its pretty cool how just about every aspect of determining how to efficiency calibrate these engines were considered by Dodge (at the time that is).
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Old March 25th, 2020, 05:26 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EllowViper View Post
Your PCM monitors battery voltage for injector duty cycle offsets...aka at lower battery voltage it will keep your injectors on longer and likewise at higher voltages, it shortens injector duty cycle. The offsets are pretty significant if I recall, so cold start or hard starting on a drained battery is more than just a physical cranking issue. Its pretty cool how just about every aspect of determining how to efficiency calibrate these engines were considered by Dodge (at the time that is).
You're just referring to the cranking part before the engine is running on its own right? Wouldn't it make more sense to use a temperature sensor to control cold-start enrichment than assuming it's cold because battery voltage is lower?
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Old March 25th, 2020, 05:27 PM   #9
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I've noticed that my doors are intermittently locked through no action on my part and I have to use the remote to unlock them. From what I have read, this indicates the need for battery replacement. I do use a battery tender but only occasionally. Can someone give me an update on the best battery for a 99 RT10? I cannot find a Sears Diehard for my car on their website. I've been told Interstate works fine. Just looking for a current update on the best replacement choice. Thanks.
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Old March 26th, 2020, 11:43 AM   #10
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Quote:
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You're just referring to the cranking part before the engine is running on its own right? Wouldn't it make more sense to use a temperature sensor to control cold-start enrichment than assuming it's cold because battery voltage is lower?
I believe at "Key-on" all the initial calibrations are set (MAP, ECT, TPS, etcetera). Not sure during cranking when the battery is under stress how rapid the offsets are recomputed. Regardless, my point is that having adequate battery voltage before starting and during running is very important. Its not like you can push-start a dead Viper and just pop-the-clutch like the good old days. When I am bored and browsing my tuning software, like I said its interesting seeing and trying to determine all the inter-related tuning tables and how one effects the others.
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Old March 26th, 2020, 12:52 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Desert Venom Racer View Post
I've noticed that my doors are intermittently locked through no action on my part and I have to use the remote to unlock them. From what I have read, this indicates the need for battery replacement. I do use a battery tender but only occasionally. Can someone give me an update on the best battery for a 99 RT10? I cannot find a Sears Diehard for my car on their website. I've been told Interstate works fine. Just looking for a current update on the best replacement choice. Thanks.
DieHards are still available, so are Interstates. But for the past several years it seems like they all crap out around the same time and one is no better than the other. I'm betting these days most batteries have the same manufacturer with different branding.
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Old March 26th, 2020, 01:38 PM   #12
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DieHards are still available, so are Interstates. But for the past several years it seems like they all crap out around the same time and one is no better than the other. I'm betting these days most batteries have the same manufacturer with different branding.
Johnson controls makes most batteries these days. Suggest just going to Autozone and pickup a battery there.
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Old March 30th, 2020, 02:53 AM   #13
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I have a similar issue. Car starts and runs fine but when I turn it off the marker lights stay on. Disconnected the headlight switch and they are still on. Put a trickle charger on the battery post and the marker lights went out after a few minutes of charging. Very weird...
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Old April 8th, 2020, 09:24 AM   #14
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"it is normal to have a small 5 to 30 milliamperes continuous electrical draw from the battery. This draw will take place with the ignition in the off position, and the courtesy, and other lights off. The continuous draw is due to various electronic features or accessories that require electrical current with the ignition off to function properly. When a vehicle is not used over an extended period, Approximately 20 days, the battery negative cable should be disconnected.

A normal electrical system will draw from 5 to 30 milliamperes from the battery. This is with the ignition in the off position, and all non ignition control circuits in proper working order. The amount of IOD (ignition off draw) will depend on body model and electrical components. A vehicle that has not been operated for an extended period Of approximately 20 days may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. In this case, the battery negative cable should be disconnected.

If the ignition off draw is over 30 milliamperes, the defect must be found and corrected before condemning the battery. Usually, the battery can be charged and returned to service."

~Service manual: Page 8A-3
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