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Overheating when AC Running

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Old June 29th, 2019, 01:46 PM   #21
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I tried the purple ice in a 77 stroker Vette I had a few years ago ( they have the same airflow issues as the Viper ) and the only difference it made was my wallet was a bit lighter.
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Old June 29th, 2019, 04:35 PM   #22
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I tried the purple ice in a 77 stroker Vette I had a few years ago ( they have the same airflow issues as the Viper ) and the only difference it made was my wallet was a bit lighter.
Lol good to know
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Old June 29th, 2019, 04:40 PM   #23
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I think you are expecting more than is reasonable. It's summer in Texas. You are in Houston where the air is hot and heavy with moisture, neither of which are good performance. Just get used to it.
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Old June 30th, 2019, 09:21 AM   #24
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A lot of newer vehicles are designed to run hotter. I had 2 different company pickups before I retired. The first was a 2006 Ford 150. The second was a 2012 Dodge 1500. Both ran normal temps between 220* and 230*. My 2002 Vette was the same. it ran around 220* all the time.
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Old June 30th, 2019, 01:49 PM   #25
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I have some huge fans I got from summit that a friend and I built a shroud for. Dual 13", 25 amps each. Highly recommended. Before, just like you, I had all kinds of overheating problems. Had to pull over and turn off the car once in heavy traffic.

Took it to an autox in July, where it was high 90's. autox is the worst for the cooling system, because it's heavy load, but not high speeds, so you're mostly relying on the fans. Even with spraying the radiator and having the heater on max, we couldn't keep it under 230.

Since the fan upgrade, the needle stays pegged at 190, even in traffic. I did GG heads and cam since then too, so I'm making more power. I took it to an autox last month where the run group was small (so basically hot lapping the car with little time to cool down), and it was high 90's again. I think I saw 210 at the worst. These fans rock.

If you want, I can give you the shroud dimensions and fan model. It was a fair bit of effort and fabbing to squeeze it in there, but worth it imo.
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Old June 30th, 2019, 07:33 PM   #26
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I have some huge fans I got from summit that a friend and I built a shroud for. Dual 13", 25 amps each. Highly recommended. Before, just like you, I had all kinds of overheating problems. Had to pull over and turn off the car once in heavy traffic.

Took it to an autox in July, where it was high 90's. autox is the worst for the cooling system, because it's heavy load, but not high speeds, so you're mostly relying on the fans. Even with spraying the radiator and having the heater on max, we couldn't keep it under 230.

Since the fan upgrade, the needle stays pegged at 190, even in traffic. I did GG heads and cam since then too, so I'm making more power. I took it to an autox last month where the run group was small (so basically hot lapping the car with little time to cool down), and it was high 90's again. I think I saw 210 at the worst. These fans rock.

If you want, I can give you the shroud dimensions and fan model. It was a fair bit of effort and fabbing to squeeze it in there, but worth it imo.

Super interested, thanks a ton.

I know 220-230 could be considered normal depending on the driving conditions. More of it has to do with 230 being too close to 250 on the gauge and me sweating bullets thinking I’m roasting the motor. Aftermarket gauges might be a next step so I can tell what the temp is vs sitting in traffic thinking “well I hope this isn’t too hot”
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Old July 1st, 2019, 12:10 AM   #27
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pm sent
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Old July 1st, 2019, 11:05 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjsxw6 View Post
I have some huge fans I got from summit that a friend and I built a shroud for. Dual 13", 25 amps each. Highly recommended. Before, just like you, I had all kinds of overheating problems. Had to pull over and turn off the car once in heavy traffic.

Took it to an autox in July, where it was high 90's. autox is the worst for the cooling system, because it's heavy load, but not high speeds, so you're mostly relying on the fans. Even with spraying the radiator and having the heater on max, we couldn't keep it under 230.

Since the fan upgrade, the needle stays pegged at 190, even in traffic. I did GG heads and cam since then too, so I'm making more power. I took it to an autox last month where the run group was small (so basically hot lapping the car with little time to cool down), and it was high 90's again. I think I saw 210 at the worst. These fans rock.

If you want, I can give you the shroud dimensions and fan model. It was a fair bit of effort and fabbing to squeeze it in there, but worth it imo.
If you have pictures and can show us the wiring that would be awesome. Would be nice to see how this all fit in. I assume you ran your own relays and fused setup and used the stock fan wiring as a trigger?
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Old July 2nd, 2019, 12:49 AM   #29
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If you have pictures and can show us the wiring that would be awesome. Would be nice to see how this all fit in. I assume you ran your own relays and fused setup and used the stock fan wiring as a trigger?
I'll work on the pictures. I don't have any handy, because they were all on my old phone which failed suddenly. I tried to recover the pictures but couldn't.

In the mean time, here's a link to the sketchup model (free cad program) I made when I was mocking everything up. You'll need a copy of sketchup to view it. There's 2 shrouds, one for each fan. They have to go in one side at a time. The seam where they meet should be pretty tight (ideally 0, but you know how it goes when you are rolling your own stuff)

If the idea of 2 separate shrouds seem weird to you, know it's the only way to get those fans to fit. I tried half a dozen different cardboard mockups before I finally gave up and went with 2 pieces.

These are the fans. I initially thought I might be able to hack the shroud a little to get it to fit, but was unable.

The shroud I ended up making was pretty simple. I got 22ga steel sheet from home depot and cut out all the pieces with a jigsaw. I tacked it together with one of those cheap HF flux core welders, and then a friend helped me weld it together.

As far as wiring, each fan draws about 25 amps (don't worry, alternator is good for it), so they are on separate relays. I used an add a circuit to tap into one of the fuses that becomes live when the car is running, which turns on the relays. I think there are like 4 positions for the ignition circuit (off, accessory, run, and cranking) ? I don't quite remember, but it's all in the service manual. I think the fuse I spliced off of was live for running and cranking, but not accessory. So, both fans are on all the time. If you wanted to get fancy and use the oem high speed/low speed outputs you could, but I didn't see the benefit.
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Old July 2nd, 2019, 05:16 PM   #30
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I was poking around my fan today checking things out contemplating doing a relay bypass to ease the pressure off the OEM wiring. The two speed fan has three 12 ga wires....light green (high speed) dark green (low speed) and black (ground). After looking at it all and the Service manual, I figured the factory 12ga wiring and relays were good enough for now. If I ever go with a custom fan set-up, then maybe I'll do relays and so forth.
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Old July 5th, 2019, 11:37 PM   #31
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I was poking around my fan today checking things out contemplating doing a relay bypass to ease the pressure off the OEM wiring. The two speed fan has three 12 ga wires....light green (high speed) dark green (low speed) and black (ground). After looking at it all and the Service manual, I figured the factory 12ga wiring and relays were good enough for now. If I ever go with a custom fan set-up, then maybe I'll do relays and so forth.
What year is the car? I think relays frying was only an issue on certain years right?
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Old July 6th, 2019, 10:27 AM   #32
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What year is the car? I think relays frying was only an issue on certain years right?
01 GTS. The wires into the fan module/OEM plug are getting hard/brittle so rewiring a relay bypass might be smart, but I'm just not feeling compelled to mess with something that (right now) is working fine. I've messed-up enough things that were working fine trying to improve the OEM design. I think we've all fallen into that trap from time to time.
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Old July 10th, 2019, 03:25 PM   #33
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If you decide to replace the relays, be sure to get ones that will handle the amperage. The ones available from most auto parts stores are only rated at 20 amps. The OEM are 40 amps. I found an electrical supply store in San Antonio that sold 40 amp ones.
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Old July 12th, 2019, 12:23 AM   #34
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I think you are expecting more than is reasonable. It's summer in Texas. You are in Houston where the air is hot and heavy with moisture, neither of which are good performance. Just get used to it.
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Originally Posted by AJ02 View Post
If you decide to replace the relays, be sure to get ones that will handle the amperage. The ones available from most auto parts stores are only rated at 20 amps. The OEM are 40 amps. I found an electrical supply store in San Antonio that sold 40 amp ones.

Yeah this is crucial.
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