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Half shafts???

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Half shafts???
Old June 7th, 2019, 02:16 PM   #1
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Half shafts???

Just got off the phone with Unitrax. I am told they dont make gen 2 axles anymore. What other options do we have? Im not feeling like spending $5k on a set...
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Old June 7th, 2019, 04:59 PM   #2
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https://www.driveshaftshop.com/domestic-axles?cat=471
Way under 5k
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Old June 7th, 2019, 08:17 PM   #3
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I have a set of used Unitrax axles PM me.
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Old June 7th, 2019, 11:30 PM   #4
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Arnt those Driveshaftshop exles priced each? Thats $4k for a set of axles... 😵
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Old June 8th, 2019, 12:23 AM   #5
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I have unitrax 800hp set for $700.00 shipped.
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Old June 9th, 2019, 03:45 PM   #6
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So whats the verdict? Are those Unitrax any good to run on 345 stickies and 1000hp? I dont do strip but plan on driving living hell out of it. Based on numbers suggested Driveshaftshop ones are 1200hp rated. What do you guys think? I dont want to run loops but care about my car and if Unitrax is not up to par for 1k ish hp car I will consider other options.
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Old June 9th, 2019, 03:52 PM   #7
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Arnt those Driveshaftshop exles priced each? Thats $4k for a set of axles... 😵
The ad makes me think they are for a set. I emailed them a month ago regarding build times but never heard back. Since I never heard back, I spent my $$$ on food and clothing for the kids. I have the 800 HP Unitrax but only trust them so far. They have a few miles on them and so far so good...
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Old June 9th, 2019, 05:08 PM   #8
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Arnt those Driveshaftshop exles priced each? Thats $4k for a set of axles... 😵
No, per set.
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Old June 9th, 2019, 06:00 PM   #9
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Oh... oh... so I Driveshaftshop it is?

Those are CV style?
Do I need to crack my diff to install these at all?
And if I do these and say a clutch, my t56 would be the weak link? Or diff? How stout the driveshafts are on these gen 2s?

Sorry for all the Qs but I thinks it would be a good sourse to read for others as well.

Thx gents.
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Old June 9th, 2019, 08:22 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Domantas View Post
Oh... oh... so I Driveshaftshop it is?

Those are CV style?
Do I need to crack my diff to install these at all?
And if I do these and say a clutch, my t56 would be the weak link? Or diff? How stout the driveshafts are on these gen 2s?

Sorry for all the Qs but I thinks it would be a good sourse to read for others as well.

Thx gents.
I have the Driveshaft axles in my car. They are CV style but you do not have to take your differential apart, you just replace the stub shafts in the differential to the cv style.

If you don't want nothing to break you should replace the differential, clutch, build the transmission (some don't and do fine) and buy an upgraded rear pinion. I just did all of this as well and you will just break one thing after the next if you use sticky tires and don't upgrade everything. Also the rear pinion bracket is something no one told me about until it snapped and it broke my brand new driveshaft shop axles and rear batwing assembly. Todd at a/c performance can hook you up if you need the rear pinion as he has cnc'd ones.
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Old June 13th, 2019, 07:06 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Domantas View Post
So whats the verdict? Are those Unitrax any good to run on 345 stickies and 1000hp? I dont do strip but plan on driving living hell out of it. Based on numbers suggested Driveshaftshop ones are 1200hp rated. What do you guys think? I dont want to run loops but care about my car and if Unitrax is not up to par for 1k ish hp car I will consider other options.
I would ONLY use driveshaft shops 1200hp CV axles for your power. I had 950ish Torque to the wheels off the line...enough to pull the front tires an inch. I broke stock and unitrax. I have the driveshaft shop ones now...NO issues. They are amazing. My car was Roe+nitrous on Hoosiers 28/14.5 slicks when I pulled the tires. Now its getting TT at 1k+ hp. Go with the CV's and never look back.
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Old June 13th, 2019, 07:08 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Domantas View Post
Oh... oh... so I Driveshaftshop it is?

Those are CV style?
Do I need to crack my diff to install these at all?
And if I do these and say a clutch, my t56 would be the weak link? Or diff? How stout the driveshafts are on these gen 2s?

Sorry for all the Qs but I thinks it would be a good sourse to read for others as well.

Thx gents.
Like daaam already said, there are a lot of things that can or will break with that power. I have the stock tranny and she has held up just fine. And let me tell you, I race and drive the living shit out of my car. The rear diff broke on me, that's fixed. Lot of little things to take care of to make the car last. Also, if you pre-load the drive train on launches you will break a lot less stuff.
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Old June 13th, 2019, 11:26 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daaam View Post
I have the Driveshaft axles in my car. They are CV style but you do not have to take your differential apart, you just replace the stub shafts in the differential to the cv style.

If you don't want nothing to break you should replace the differential, clutch, build the transmission (some don't and do fine) and buy an upgraded rear pinion. I just did all of this as well and you will just break one thing after the next if you use sticky tires and don't upgrade everything. Also the rear pinion bracket is something no one told me about until it snapped and it broke my brand new driveshaft shop axles and rear batwing assembly. Todd at a/c performance can hook you up if you need the rear pinion as he has cnc'd ones.
I was looking at my half shafts last night and on the wheel hub, I have the ABS sensor as part of the U-joint stub. I doubt the CV style has those.....?
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Old June 13th, 2019, 12:50 PM   #14
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They are removable. You have to take them off and press on new cv joints.
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