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Got a set of mirror image Precision 6266's in the mail

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Got a set of mirror image Precision 6266's in the mail
Old June 4th, 2019, 03:54 PM   #1
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Got a set of mirror image Precision 6266's in the mail

I've been debating my forced induction options for almost a year now but with them new Precision 6266, 6466, and 7675s just released out of the cage and a deal I got on a set I pulled the trigger on a set of 6266 (1.05 AR, t3, v-band)

Goal is to maintain stock guts in the motor for at least some time, dont go over t56 limits, and no frame hacking. And of course save some green by doing fab myself, and where's the fun in it if you just buy a complete kit..?

Aaanyway...

What gates should I consider? Precision 46mm? Would like to just run of the spring alone without boost control. I'll be utilizing stock tube headers with custom adapter pipes. Anyone knows what flange to use on the factory header?
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Old June 4th, 2019, 08:04 PM   #2
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Post build pics! I've been on the fence about going from my current single setup to twins with the same manifolds.


If they're the tube headers, they're close to a 2.5" vband. I think the stock midpipes don't have a flange, but instead the pipe is swaged to mate with the headers if I remember. I tried to take a standard 2.5" vband flange you'd find on ebay and it didn't fit exactly to the header.
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Old June 4th, 2019, 10:15 PM   #3
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We run 46’s on almost all of our builds. They work great. I have a set of tubular gen 2 manifolds from when I was planning on boosting mine. I was going to chop the stock v band off and weld a fresh v band assembly on so I knew I’d have no sealing issues
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Old June 5th, 2019, 09:13 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Domantas View Post
I've been debating my forced induction options for almost a year now but with them new Precision 6266, 6466, and 7675s just released out of the cage and a deal I got on a set I pulled the trigger on a set of 6266 (1.05 AR, t3, v-band)

Goal is to maintain stock guts in the motor for at least some time, dont go over t56 limits, and no frame hacking. And of course save some green by doing fab myself, and where's the fun in it if you just buy a complete kit..?

Aaanyway...

What gates should I consider? Precision 46mm? Would like to just run of the spring alone without boost control. I'll be utilizing stock tube headers with custom adapter pipes. Anyone knows what flange to use on the factory header?
Im literally in the process of doing exactly the same. I picked up a set of 97 cast manifolds, hacked off the stock outlet flange and welded on v-band flanges. My goal was to NOT hack up the car as much as possible. This rule got violated a little bit with the turbo mounting but not a ton really in the longrun.

Im using .81 A/R T4 67MM turbos with 3" inlet however, but plan to run about 6-7 psi on a stock guts creampuff motor at wastegate pressure. I opted for 46mm Tial wastegates. Im hoping to hit 650-700whp but honestly, as long as it runs well and drives nicely i'll be happy with whatever power it puts down probably.

You will have to get crafty if you're doing footwell mounting (most likely) and don't want to hack the rocker to frame support bars. Its not impossible but its difficult with large frame turbos (mainly the compressor cover causing issues). I managed to cut one of mine out entirely and mocked up and mounted the turbo and welded the bar back in about a half inch or so more forward and adjusted the stock heat shield to still cover the turbo and used a turbo blanket. I'm trying to avoid this on the passenger side but i may have to do the same.

If using stock cast manifolds for durability, the only recommendation i can give is to try to eliminate the discharge angle on the stock manifolds into the footwell area and line it up with the frame support bar evenly if possible so that your "mid pipe" to the turbo can have less bends/fabrication and will be easier to create and line up the turbine housing with the exit in the frame for the downpipe. Also pay attention to how much room you have for the inlet of the turbos themselves, its a super tight fit and you want to leave enough room to fit filters. I'm trying to find a small enough filter to fit currently because i only have about 2.5 to 3" of room from the END of the compressor inlet itself to the frame rail which screws me a bit but, there were trade-offs and i figured i could work around this with something from maybe turboguard.com and perhaps some sort of filtering element over that also to help or perhaps a tiny custom filter of sorts.

Also if using cast manifolds, ensure you chase the exhaust manifold bolt hole threads on the cylinder heads with a tap and get the right length suitable grade 8 replacement bolt with lock washers and good gaskets so you don't have to come back and do
it again or risk stripping out any holes in the cylinder head.

Fitting a 46mm wastegate in on the drivers side for me wasn't too bad and i have a little bit of an angle on it from the pipe to divert exhaust INTO the wastegate coming right out of the v-band off the manifold.

I also ended up switching to solid motor mounts as well to keep things from flexing/moving. If you want a set yourself for a decent price, contact Johnny Spiva at polybushings.com. SUPER nice guy and really cool to talk to and very responsive. He was able to fab up a set of mounts and ship them out quick. Although I may have been able to make them myself easily, i just didnt want to bother since he had experience making poly mounts and easily could adapt his design to solids.

For turbo drain, id recommend doing your research if you plan to go with a scavenge pump and skip trying the gravity drain.

I'm running 6an returns at the advice of several that have posted here with successfully setups and 2-3 psi check valve off the engine block into the oil supply T fitting that runs to both turbos. Going to give this a try and see how it works and if it causes issues ill move check valves both pre-turbo oil supply inlet and go from there. I'll probably also remove the 90 degree oil drain fitting and go with one from Huron speed. they make a cnc SIDE EXIT flange that is great for clearance
https://www.amazon.com/Huron-Speed-T.../dp/B07FCSWD71

For running the pump after the car is off, take a look into a time delay relay that keeps power TO the pump for a certain time after the igntion/engine are off. I think i picked one up from here (adjustable) for fairly cheap
https://www.qualitymobilevideo.com/bu508td.html

Apologies in advance, not trying to hijack your thread, but figured this would be helpful. I had to piece this together from my own knowledge and also bits and pieces i've picked up from others just searching around. Keep in mind my setup isn't complete yet so take what i say about oil drain and feed with a grain of salt as i havn't tested it just yet.
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Last edited by Lunchbox; June 9th, 2019 at 08:29 AM.
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Old June 5th, 2019, 09:34 AM   #5
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Loving the comments so far! These are the exact reasons why I chosen symmetrical turbos. I wanted to be able to position them in the best possible orientation. I wish we had some t4s available in symmetrical configuration but I feel like 6266 has been proven to do well and with current new 1.05 ar they should be $ for what I want them to do. I wanted to avoid hacking frame at all costs....

So far...

Precision 6266 mirror image v-band (t3) 1.05 ar turbos
Precision 46mm wastegates
Custom polyurethane engine mounts are being made at the machine shop
Unitrax half shafts

Whats your take on intercoolers? I would love to stay wirh air to air front mount. Goal would be to keep fog lights, no meth, no water pumps ect involved with air to water, and of course keep her cool... should I consider upgrading the radiator, have multiple fans installed? Ive heard guys run hot with front mounts on these cars.
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Old June 5th, 2019, 09:45 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Domantas View Post
Loving the comments so far! These are the exact reasons why I chosen symmetrical turbos. I wanted to be able to position them in the best possible orientation. I wish we had some t4s available in symmetrical configuration but I feel like 6266 has been proven to do well and with current new 1.05 ar they should be $ for what I want them to do. I wanted to avoid hacking frame at all costs....

So far...

Precision 6266 mirror image v-band (t3) 1.05 ar turbos
Precision 46mm wastegates
Custom polyurethane engine mounts are being made at the machine shop
Unitrax half shafts

Whats your take on intercoolers? I would love to stay wirh air to air front mount. Goal would be to keep fog lights, no meth, no water pumps ect involved with air to water, and of course keep her cool... should I consider upgrading the radiator, have multiple fans installed? Ive heard guys run hot with front mounts on these cars.
I'm not a fan of the fact i have to run a FMIC on the car because there is alot of ducting in the front end of the viper and i'm sure as you know its a bit touchy with temps sometimes.

I'd pull the front bumper and take a look before ordering anything and try to plan it out. Sidemounts are ideal but fitting them and also getting enough surface area from the fog light holes to make them perform is difficult. its not impossible but its quite a bit of work from what it looked like which is why i bit the bullet and opted for a FMIC.

Just ensure you keep as much of the stock ducting as possible and try to seal the FMIC to the radiator with paneling/ducting to keep the air moving through and not "leak" out the sides between the two.

I may end up having to add pusher fans on the front of the radiator, but i'm not even sure yet as its not done/running yet. I'm hoping to find out here late august this year how well it holds up to 105 degree texas temps in the dead of summer with A/C.

Also, shims.... make sure every little piece you pull off that shims the front end for headlights or bumper or crash-guard goes back on and you wont have much of an issue with body panels (bumper,hood,lights) matching back up again when you re-assemble.

I chose a dual in dual out fmic setup much like RSI has as routing piping through the control arms to the front is the logical way to go. 2" Piping from compressor outlets to the front seems to be about the right size.

You could go water to air, but if you're already running an oil scavenge pump system it just seems like you're adding alot more complexity in my mind than is necessary and you're still blocking the radiator slightly with a heat exchanger although not as thick or restrictive its still adding another obstacle.
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Old June 5th, 2019, 08:18 PM   #7
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Do you think this would be up to par? Single top 3.5" outlet to a Y running over the radiator support.

https://www.motionraceworks.com/prod...rcooler-1300hp
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Old June 6th, 2019, 09:39 AM   #8
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This is what i ended up doing. The outlets line up perfectly with the plastics on the side where the intercooler pipes will be passing through, however yeah you could do the single pipe over the radiator, but you would still have to split it if you plan on keeping the stock intake manifold /throttle body setup.
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Old June 6th, 2019, 11:55 AM   #9
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Sinse im doing symmetrical turbos Im looking for symmetry in my intercooler setup as well. I dont think I'll run intercooler like yours just because of my ocd lol.

I'll probably try that intercooler I linked. LS guys rage about them. I'll probably run it in "rice" mode for a bit to see if it negatively effects cooling aspect of things before I even install my rurbos...

Yes, running Y to my throttle bodies with a single Massive BOV is the plan.
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Old June 6th, 2019, 12:15 PM   #10
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If you guys are looking for a set of true turbo manifolds, PM me:



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Old June 6th, 2019, 01:35 PM   #11
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Speaking of manifolds...

Do any of you have stock ones crack with smaller frame turbos? Im debating if I should stick with '99 header style or get a set of cast '97 manifolds. Those Paolos manifolds are indeed tempting but im not sure its justifiable for my goals. Im not too crazy about running scavange pump with footwell mounts but I have it all planned. Most have scavange pump issues because they dont incorporate ventilation in the system. Makes me cringe when I see scavange pump setup sucking vacuum through turbo seals...
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Old June 6th, 2019, 04:34 PM   #12
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Speaking of manifolds...

Do any of you have stock ones crack with smaller frame turbos? Im debating if I should stick with '99 header style or get a set of cast '97 manifolds. Those Paolos manifolds are indeed tempting but im not sure its justifiable for my goals. Im not too crazy about running scavange pump with footwell mounts but I have it all planned. Most have scavange pump issues because they dont incorporate ventilation in the system. Makes me cringe when I see scavange pump setup sucking vacuum through turbo seals...
For the amount of power you want, why not just buy a Roe supercharge. Way more fun, and upgrade-able. Just add NOS........................

I know of one for sale:

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...2477&ref=notif
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Old June 6th, 2019, 05:00 PM   #13
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Because it aint no turbo 😁

And where's the fun in building?
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Old June 6th, 2019, 05:53 PM   #14
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It's in having it done over a weekend and not waiting 8 months to finish a project that will yield less driving fun.........................
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Old June 6th, 2019, 10:05 PM   #15
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Very good point... 🤔
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Old June 7th, 2019, 10:12 AM   #16
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Do you guys know if there is enough room to run two 3" pipes to throttle bodies over the radiator support and still have the hood clear?

Likely going with a custom vertical 25"x9"x3.5" intercooler with two 2.5" in and two 3" out up top.
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Old June 7th, 2019, 10:14 AM   #17
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Kinda like so but with 3" pipes and two BOV's
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Old June 11th, 2019, 06:00 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99RT10>S View Post
If you guys are looking for a set of true turbo manifolds, PM me:



I hate you. I bought cast manifolds for my car about 3 weeks ago to hack and weld the Vbands on for my NRE 72/68's. I am surprised guys are still running 62mm turbos, I feel like that is just so small.

I bought Dave's 02 Charcoal GTS that is heffner TT and it is running twin GT35R turbos. Makes 11psi at like 2300rpms which is the high boost setting for that 510CI engine. Dual 50mm BOV and the turbo's still surge at WOT when shifting. Thining of getting a set of BorgWarner S366, 66/68 with .88 AR on a T4. Jason Heffner said the engine is good for over 1200whp, so I am thinking about pushing the engine to 1100ish. But those turbos are already maxed out at 840whp. Sucks.

Anyway I just wanted to say I would have bought those manifolds had I seen this haha

Oh and let you know mike, that I am finally getting my turbos put on after having the car sit for a year. But I freshened up the top end and got her all ready.

Sorry for the thread jack.
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Old June 11th, 2019, 07:02 PM   #19
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I hate you. I bought cast manifolds for my car about 3 weeks ago to hack and weld the Vbands on for my NRE 72/68's. I am surprised guys are still running 62mm turbos, I feel like that is just so small.

I bought Dave's 02 Charcoal GTS that is heffner TT and it is running twin GT35R turbos. Makes 11psi at like 2300rpms which is the high boost setting for that 510CI engine. Dual 50mm BOV and the turbo's still surge at WOT when shifting. Thining of getting a set of BorgWarner S366, 66/68 with .88 AR on a T4. Jason Heffner said the engine is good for over 1200whp, so I am thinking about pushing the engine to 1100ish. But those turbos are already maxed out at 840whp. Sucks.

Anyway I just wanted to say I would have bought those manifolds had I seen this haha

Oh and let you know mike, that I am finally getting my turbos put on after having the car sit for a year. But I freshened up the top end and got her all ready.

Sorry for the thread jack.
Sweet brother!! Dave's car was a steal too. I thought about buying it too.

I wish we Viper people, as a group, would get together again and do some racing. It was a lot of fun back in the day.............
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Old June 11th, 2019, 11:59 PM   #20
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Educate me why 62mm compressor is too small? In twin it should flow to support well over 1000. T3 hot side is more of my concern but thats the only option I have at this point because I wanted symmetrical setup fitted in footwells. With 1.05ar I think it should be money for stock forged bottom motor. My other option was JMB supercharger but I wanted to challenge myself with piecing my own turbo and save some $ vs going $8500 supercharger kit.

One thing im questioning myself if I should have gone 6466 t3 1.05 instead. I already have 6266 t3 1.05 ar with me. Would I benefit at all with a bigger compressor?

All this talk about t3s being to small.... 7L Hennessey Venom GT used t3 6466,, 1.05ar I believe.
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