How's that for my first post... First of all, hello everyone. Last year I was fortunate to finally buy my all time dream car, 1999 black gts. I knew that down the road twin setup was on a bucket list.
Ive built few turbo setups before on forgein cars and always sized my turbos based on other people builds. Vipers being scarse, especially turbo builds, its hard to choose a particular turbo for my build.
Things Im looking/hoping for:
1. Utilize stock forged motor
2. Utilize stock t56
3. Footwell mounted twins
4. Shooting for 1000hp with e85
5. Optimal turbo size for the given 1000hp goal eliminating as much lag
6. Compact turbo for clean mounting
Seeing the variey of kits offered in the past and as of today I have hard time choosing the proper size turbo. I dont need room for advancement if I can achieve 1000hp on a stock bottom end so IMO choosing the smallest turbo to achieve this goal is the way to go for me.
If anyone could give me any point outs in terms of turbo size I would greatly appreciate it. Also, do any of you have contact info for Paolo Castellano? Im trying to get a set of his manifolds to get this project going.
Thanks guys.
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How's that for my first post... First of all, hello everyone. Last year I was fortunate to finally buy my all time dream car, 1999 black gts. I knew that down the road twin setup was on a bucket list.
Ive built few turbo setups before on forgein cars and always sized my turbos based on other people builds. Vipers being scarse, especially turbo builds, its hard to choose a particular turbo for my build.
Things Im looking/hoping for:
1. Utilize stock forged motor
2. Utilize stock t56
3. Footwell mounted twins
4. Shooting for 1000hp with e85
5. Optimal turbo size for the given 1000hp goal eliminating as much lag
6. Compact turbo for clean mounting
Seeing the variey of kits offered in the past and as of today I have hard time choosing the proper size turbo. I dont need room for advancement if I can achieve 1000hp on a stock bottom end so IMO choosing the smallest turbo to achieve this goal is the way to go for me.
If anyone could give me any point outs in terms of turbo size I would greatly appreciate it. Also, do any of you have contact info for Paolo Castellano? Im trying to get a set of his manifolds to get this project going.
Thanks guys.
6266, or 6766. I have 6766 and they have very little lag and pull hard throughout the powerband, i have heard the 6266 will start to fade at the higher rpm's.
Well, my best justification for wanting to hit a 1000hp mark is ego more than anything. I am very much aware (based on information online) that 1k on stock forged bottom end and t56 is pushing the limits, but on the other hand Ive heard more guys achieving 1000hp than ones trying and ending up granading a rod.
If t56 goes, 6060 would follow but for now I would like to keep the stock bottom end as is. Compression numbers are very good and I really dont want to tear it up any time soon.
Thanks guys for trying to help a new fellow here.
So far the plan is 6766 .82 A/R V band in/out. Do you guys think I should stick with E cover (3" in, 2" out) or would that be restrictive in any way? Im trying to stay as compact as possible but still have 1k capable setup.
Your axles will go first. At minimum you better grab that set of 800hp Unitrax in the fur sail section. Price is a bit high, you can typically pick them up off ebay for under $200 a piece if you're patient.
I've been through many stock axles with just under 800ft/lbs of torques. I haven't twisted a Unitrax yet, but I'm waiting.
As far as management and fuel, whatever my tunner wants me to run. Probably AEM V1 as I like the plug and play aspect of it. As for the intercoolers im steering torwards water to air setup. Ive had issues with front mounts on my previous builds and I want to keep my fog lights intact so side mounts are no go.
Yes, the goal is to have a setup capable of 1000whp but run it at ~800ish reliably. One dyno pull and few highway runs on high boost is all I want that 1000 for.
Your axles will go first. At minimum you better grab that set of 800hp Unitrax in the fur sail section. Price is a bit high, you can typically pick them up off ebay for under $200 a piece if you're patient.
I've been through many stock axles with just under 800ft/lbs of torques. I haven't twisted a Unitrax yet, but I'm waiting.
If you can get the Unitrax axles for $200 each you better jump on it because they are $1300 brand new. I did a google search on prices on them and one of the last sets i seen on the Alley "per quick google search" sold for $700.00 and they were dinged up possibly needing a new cover. The last set i seen sell for $400 was in 2011. I lowered my price to $750.00 shipped if you are interested let me know.
But I second the need for axles, they WILL break. I broke my factory ones when I had only 500 rwhp.
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96 RT-10 RSI TT, Show me your TT's.
They do occasionally pop up on ebay for cheap - if I don't get them first. I've been hoarding half shafts like cam sensors. Cheapest one I got was $75 from a seller who was clearing out an estate listed as "short driveshaft". His dad didn't own a Viper, so who knows where it came from, and why he only had a single unit.
But if you're going to be doing 1,000whp all day every day on sticky tires, the 800hp axles may not last long. You may need to step it up to 1200hp axles like these http://www.driveshaftshop.com/domest...ith-diff-stubs
If you are going 1000rwhp upgrade to better shafts than the Unitrax, I upgraded to the DSS axles when I went TT (hence why I am selling my axles) but be weary the next things to break with be the rear diff, transmission, or the rear batwings/pinon bracket.
BUY an upgraded pinon bracket, Todd at AC Performance has a CNC'd solid one, otherwise you will have a lot more expenses.
Just remember as you strengthen parts the next weakest one goes, so if you keep everything stock but then get axles that will not break then the next part will break which could be lots more expensive then a new axle.
This is news to me... just last night I realized there are few manufacturers offering as what some call symetrical or reverse rotation turbos. Here are few reverse orientation options offered by Garrett, all available in .61, .83 or 1.01 A/R turbine housings. I can see how these would be superior in regards of fitment and ease of fab work.
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