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Overheating AND no heater

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Overheating AND no heater
Old February 9th, 2018, 09:32 AM   #1
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Overheating AND no heater

Car:
97 GTS
26k miles
Water pump 3k miles ago
180 thermostat (old)
re-cored OEM radiator
fans work
both coolant tanks filled correctly

About 45 degrees outside.

Curious what you guys think is happening here. When I'm at idle, the car temp stays right around 180-190. When accelerating with 'moderate' throttle, the temperature climbs to around 220, but then drops down to 180 as soon as I let off the throttle and idle the car for a bit. When i'm a bit more aggressive with the throttle, the temperature rises quicker and takes a bit longer to cool down. When I do a WOT pull, the temperature keeps climbing until hitting 240-250 and I shut the car off, and the overflow tank is spitting out fluid. If I start the car up even 10 minutes after this WOT overheating event, the temperature again climbs to 250. If I wait for the car to cool completely and then start it, it stabilizes at 180-190. A few times, the car cooled too much to maybe 1/3rd of the gauge travel, after a moderate throttle pull.

Also, the heater is not blowing warm/hot - just cold.

The heater issue drives me to think I have a clog in the heater core. Then again, it could be the standard water pump impeller issue. The 'cooling too much' issue makes me think the thermostat might be sticking.

I have a new MOPAR water pump ready to go in, but want to make sure I'm changing the right thing. Also have a new 180* thermostat ready to go in.

What do you guys think?
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Old February 9th, 2018, 11:19 AM   #2
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Really sounds like the water pump. The heater core should still get fluid even with a bad thermostat.
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Old February 9th, 2018, 11:23 AM   #3
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Your heater control valve may also be malfunctioning. Have you verified correct operation?

It could possibly be thermostat related, but they don't fail very often. My bet is that you have air trapped in the cooling system. Pull a hose off the heater core area after the car is warmed up. Grasp the upper main radiator hose and squeeze it several times. There should be surges of solid coolant flowing from all those hoses if the valve is open. If not, and the big hose is full and solid, the thermostat may be stuck. If the hose collapses and you hear gurgling thru the heater hose, then bleeding is the answer.
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Old February 9th, 2018, 12:30 PM   #4
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If the T-state stays closed, you still get heater flow since it actually bypasses to the heater BEFORE the t-state opens. Like Dean suggests, pull the heater hose off and check that flow. No flow=bad pump. The T-stat housing is designed that way so you get heat right away...So my spidey senses think bad impeller...slipping, working when cool, slipping when hot or under a lot of fluid resistance that is created by RPM. It could have been presumably replaced with one that had the same condition the OEM one.
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Old February 9th, 2018, 10:47 PM   #5
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It sounds like the water pump impeller is just spinning. Install a new one, get yours rebuilt
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Old February 10th, 2018, 02:07 PM   #6
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Possible dash gauge not working?
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Old February 11th, 2018, 02:18 PM   #7
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Ilyas,
I came across the same issue with my friend's G35 with fluctuating temp gauge. It end up being trapped air in the cooling system. As a fix, took radiator cap off and ran to operating temp, gave it a couple of revs to circulate the coolant with max heat selected. It got a little messy with the coolant/antifreeze bubbling up and overflowing but it was quick rinse and problem fixed. Good luck to you and update us.
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Old February 11th, 2018, 09:48 PM   #8
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Could also be a combo of thermostat and impeller. I was having similar issues when my impeller went and thermostat went. I was pretty sure it was the water pump but when taking it down thermostat was bad too.
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Old February 11th, 2018, 10:55 PM   #9
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He replaced the water pump 3K miles ago.
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Old February 12th, 2018, 03:18 AM   #10
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So what. I have had to change one in less mileage than that, due to a defective replacement.

This car has all the tells of a pump.
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Old February 14th, 2018, 03:31 PM   #11
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Sounds like water pump it is. Nobody mentioned a clog somewhere in the system, so I'll start with the pump. I have a new thermostat ready as well, in case the pump doesn't fix it.

There's no indication of the gauge being faulty, and I do not believe air is trapped in the system beacause the system is supposed to clear air out by itself.

I would check the flow at the heater, but the RPM would need to be up because the car cools fine at idle.

Thanks all. Water pump it is.
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Old February 26th, 2018, 08:55 AM   #12
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Replaced the water pump. Didn't remove the hood and didn't move the crossbrace. Did remove the crank pulley.

The impeller was cracked and completely separated. It spun completely freely on the shaft. Attached pictures and PN, just so people don't order the same one. This isn't even 3k miles old.
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Old February 26th, 2018, 09:11 AM   #13
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Wow. Just Wow. Its good to definitively know the cause of your issue, but what a PITA. Don't bust your knuckles...LOL.
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Old February 26th, 2018, 12:01 PM   #14
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The impeller was cracked and completely separated. It spun completely freely on the shaft. Attached pictures and PN, just so people don't order the same one. This isn't even 3k miles old.
That part number is irrelevant. It looks to me like you have a remanufactured pump either using an original Mopar pump as a core, or, if not, a Chinese copy of the pump body without having removed the OE part number from the mold. The OEM pumps that I have seen do not have a nut holding the impeller on; like yours does. It failed due to a bad rebuild issue, IMHO.

OEM pump currently on eBay, for reference:
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Old February 27th, 2018, 07:10 PM   #15
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Wow, it failed quick! That pump was bought from a large Mopar dealer out of Texas. It was a re-manufactured OEM unit as at the time I needed to replace the original unit, there were no new OEM units to be found anywhere. Even had a couple forum members keeping an eye out for me too, but if one would pop up, it was gone in a second.

Hopefully there are more new OEM's available now vs. what was available when it failed originally.
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Old February 28th, 2018, 09:38 AM   #16
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A few vendors have new OEM units available, but I may just have my bad pump rebuilt in case supply dries up again. Or just buy one more OEM pump.
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Old February 28th, 2018, 11:58 AM   #17
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Wow, it failed quick! That pump was bought from a large Mopar dealer out of Texas. It was a re-manufactured OEM unit as at the time I needed to replace the original unit, there were no new OEM units to be found anywhere. Even had a couple forum members keeping an eye out for me too, but if one would pop up, it was gone in a second.
You have confused me (admittedly not hard to do.) What pump are you referring to as "that pump?" Are you talking about the pump that ilyas is posting about? I thought that he was talking about his pump. Maybe he bought your car that you replaced the pump on previously?
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Old February 28th, 2018, 02:45 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jslimm View Post
You have confused me (admittedly not hard to do.) What pump are you referring to as "that pump?" Are you talking about the pump that ilyas is posting about? I thought that he was talking about his pump. Maybe he bought your car that you replaced the pump on previously?
I bought Banton's car.
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Old July 10th, 2018, 08:48 AM   #19
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About 500 miles later my issue is back. Overheating with throttle, and keeping cool at idle.

Can't believe another pump failed....
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Old July 10th, 2018, 09:02 AM   #20
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Head gaskets? Mine did exactly the same thing and ended up being the head gaskets.
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