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Old March 27th, 2017, 10:30 PM   #41
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I have mine apart at the moment to replace the timing cover gasket. Dan takes the cake for the fastest reply ever.




Mine, not so clean.


I do have to say, my crank bolt came out without any issues. I check the torque during every oil change. What was a bitch, was that upper-rear A/C compressor bolt behind the hoses. Although I'm starting to think loosening it probably wasn't necessary since the timing cover slid straight forward.
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Old March 27th, 2017, 11:32 PM   #42
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Yes, all you need to pull are the front 2 bolts from the compressor. The rear two hold it in place. I'd suggest checking the torque on your cam sprocket bolt while you have it open.

And for God's sake man, CLEAN THAT ENGINE!!!
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Old March 28th, 2017, 01:48 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by GTS Dean View Post
Yes, all you need to pull are the front 2 bolts from the compressor. The rear two hold it in place. I'd suggest checking the torque on your cam sprocket bolt while you have it open.

And for God's sake man, CLEAN THAT ENGINE!!!
Good call. The inside is pristine, as it should be. Valves are spotless, water injection probably helped in that aspect. I've always done excessive fluid changes. I'll start cleaning the outside as soon as I get the old gasket material removed.

I ran out of beer, so all work must stop for tonight.
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Old March 28th, 2017, 10:16 AM   #44
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i ran out of beer, so all work must stop for tonight.
lol
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Old April 9th, 2017, 04:49 PM   #45
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That makes me feel a little better! However, I probably have some bent valves now. I guess that means that I was really meant to pull the heads off in the first place for freshening up. Tough way to learn a lesson though...
Update: Yep, several valves were tagged by pistons - 4 cylinders (1, 9, 2, 4). At least the carbon deposits are very soft and flaky so they'll clean up easy. I suspect most is due to it being quite a while since I spent much track time in the car to keep the piston tops blown clean.
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Old April 11th, 2017, 07:39 PM   #46
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I pulled all the lifters out in sequence and put them in nifty L/R storage cylinders made from 1" pvc water pipes. I screwed a bolt in the end of the cam to help guide it out and it wouldn't move. I got a block of wood and a heel bar to tug on the bolt, but still no luck. I screwed the bolt in til it bottomed and put a wrench on it. Damn thing won't budge. WTF?? The oil pump clearanced in spec and the motor made good pressure before and after it quit running. What would cause the cam to gall stuck if it isn't even turning with plenty of oil pressure?
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Old April 11th, 2017, 07:52 PM   #47
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I'm never running my engine again.
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Old April 11th, 2017, 08:42 PM   #48
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How much did you pay for your bolts?
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Old April 11th, 2017, 08:53 PM   #49
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We buy them by the box of 25. I just pulled a Gr 5 out of my bolt bin at work this morning and it goes back in when I'm done with it.
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Old April 11th, 2017, 09:40 PM   #50
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I pulled all the lifters out in sequence and put them in nifty L/R storage cylinders made from 1" pvc water pipes. I screwed a bolt in the end of the cam to help guide it out and it wouldn't move. I got a block of wood and a heel bar to tug on the bolt, but still no luck. I screwed the bolt in til it bottomed and put a wrench on it. Damn thing won't budge. WTF?? The oil pump clearanced in spec and the motor made good pressure before and after it quit running. What would cause the cam to gall stuck if it isn't even turning with plenty of oil pressure?
Did you replace/mess with motor mounts? If so, try loosening them and then turning cam.
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Old April 11th, 2017, 10:19 PM   #51
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I removed them both, fully expecting them to be shot. They were fine and I reinstalled them. Your connection seems rather dubious, IMO. Could you elaborate on your reasoning?
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Old April 11th, 2017, 10:37 PM   #52
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Granted it's a longshot in this case but, I've had a couple of motors that turned over fine pre motor mount tightening and couldn't even be barred over post tightening. slight difference in mount height/level is enough to slighly twist an aluminum block and bind the cam and/or crank. The aluminum V10 could twist enough to bind the long, thin cam in its journals. Chances of this are slim to non with rubber mounts but very possible with solid or rigid motor mounts.
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Old April 12th, 2017, 08:26 AM   #53
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That does make some sense, but other people pull them out regularly with the block still in the chassis with no issues.
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Old April 12th, 2017, 10:52 AM   #54
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I pulled all the lifters out in sequence and put them in nifty L/R storage cylinders made from 1" pvc water pipes. I screwed a bolt in the end of the cam to help guide it out and it wouldn't move. I got a block of wood and a heel bar to tug on the bolt, but still no luck. I screwed the bolt in til it bottomed and put a wrench on it. Damn thing won't budge. WTF?? The oil pump clearanced in spec and the motor made good pressure before and after it quit running. What would cause the cam to gall stuck if it isn't even turning with plenty of oil pressure?
Generally, this is either due to insufficient assembly lube, a foreign body in an oil gallery or oil filter, or a camshaft that is bent or has an out of spec journal. Also could be a total fluke, something came loose in a gallery somewhere, and ended up in the cam journal.

In any case, I hate to say it, but you are pulling that engine out for the repair, so you may as well just do it now to get the camshaft out of the block.
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Old April 12th, 2017, 02:41 PM   #55
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Dan, you've just been so full of cheer and encouragement throughout this whole ordeal. I just want you to know how much joy you have brought me.

A timing cover gasket and headers leads to a complete engine rebuild. Geez...

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Old April 12th, 2017, 04:48 PM   #56
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Dan, you've just been so full of cheer and encouragement throughout this whole ordeal. I just want you to know how much joy you have brought me.

A timing cover gasket and headers leads to a complete engine rebuild. Geez...

I almost feel like I should throw a bottle of Jack into your next order. The bizarre way this went down is just ridiculous. Either you are going to find a small animal inside that thing when you tear it down, or maybe a handful of sand from someone who hates you.

Have you been sleeping with anyone's wife lately? Or maybe kicked a black cat under a latter into a mirror?
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Old May 13th, 2020, 06:47 PM   #57
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My family decided for my 60th birthday present they were going to pitch in and have my motor fixed for me. (I love my family!)

2020 Update #1. Here are photos of the teardown. Crankshaft 3-4 rod journal looks great, #3 rod bearing (upper) is showing minor wear. I've had the lower cap off twice for inspection but never the upper. Cam sensor is alive and well. Cam sprocket drive pin is sheared off clean. The builder remarked that he was surprised how modest the wear was on the components for 36k miles. I told him most of it came from the 6000 track miles it has, and his eyes really got big. Since its very first oil change, it has always run Mobil 1 15W-50.
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Old May 13th, 2020, 06:49 PM   #58
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Update #1 continued. The cam looks fine except for the first journal, which is fed directly from the main oil galley passage. Looking closer at the first journal, we see aluminum transferred to the steel shaft from galling. The block shows right where it came from, and that cam was in there TIGHT. Finally, my engine builder said the engine was at eye level coming out of the car and he looked straight into the oil passage fed from the filter adapter on the front cover and something didn't look right. What he found on the stand was a piece of paper shop towel nicely rolled up into a plug and pushed to the back by pump pressure. This is the culprit that caused the failure. I now vaguely remember rolling up a plug to keep oil from dripping while it was in the car with the pan and timing cover off. You can even see it in the last photo. I obviously never remembered to pull it out. He says the cam can be saved. The block journal will have to be repaired.
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Last edited by GTS Dean; May 13th, 2020 at 08:33 PM.
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Old May 13th, 2020, 08:52 PM   #59
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Nice use of cupcake trays.

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Old May 13th, 2020, 10:31 PM   #60
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Dean, thanks for the photos! I have to say you're giving me a lot of reason to switch from 0W40 to 15W50.....the proof is in the bearings. Hope nothing else unexpected comes up and that the rebuild goes smoothly.
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