I'm trying to drop my transmission to replace the slave and the clutch. For the life of me, I can't get the damn 4 bolts undone to remove the driveshaft. I was trying to use a 5/16" wrench, but the closed end wouldn't fit over the bolt as the wrench head was too thick. I tried the open end and it just started to strip.
So I ran to the store to buy another 5/16" wrench that had a thinner material head. No dice, the closed side fit, but it was just easily stripping. I tried on the other bolts that I hadn't touched and it began to strip them. It was all doused in BP Blaster, but it was weird because they began to strip almost immediately.
Not sure how to get them off otherwise. Sockets won't clear, so I don't think a bolt extractor is going to work. Any ideas? Am I missing some sort of special tool?
Also, having an issue getting the aftermarket shift knob off the car. I put a wrench on the slotted nut and it's not moving at all. Even tried vice grips and it still won't turn. There just seems to be the one slotted nut on the shaft. Definitely missing something here.
Not the way I had envisioned this project would start. Here are pics for reference.
2002 GTS Silver Stripped Graphite
1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD, 2007 Mazdaspeed 6, 2017 Dodge Ram 1500
Last edited by thetalonguy; November 27th, 2015 at 04:31 PM.
Reason: Wrong pic was attached; didn't mean to publicly post my dingle berries.
A shallow socket wont fit on the driveshaft bolts? Ive had this trouble before on other vehicles. Theyre definitely tough to take off. What I would try is spraying a little pb blaster or lubricant on the bolts and let it sit for a little while. After u do that try to fit a shallow socket or just put a wrench on the bolts and tap the bolts with a hammer or chisel to loosen the bolts up a little. And if that don't work put some heat on the bolts and that should get them lose enough to use a wrench. Just DONT strip the bolts, otherwise ull be prying them out and replacing them. Goodluck
Grind the 5/16" wrench where it hits, they are cheap even if it is a Snap-On. I ended up grinding a few of my wrenches-esp for header bolts and still work fine for other uses. Don't over-think a wrench and grind a hair if needed.
Please be aware of a few things. Penetrating fluids can take up to 24 hours to be effective. 5 minutes, 15 minutes, or even an hour, is not going to be effective. Heat, at least enough to be effective, can destroy temper and seals. I would avoid it.
A penetrating fluid applied and left for an extended time, combined with light strikes to the end of the head of the screws, should loosen them. This may take a while. Like days. Keep reapplying penetrating fluid, and use a punch and hammer to strike the end of the head of the screws.
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Tried a few different things today. PB has been on for about 24 hrs with several reapplications.
Bought a spline box end wrench figuring it would grab more. It did initially, but then it started rounding again.
Couldn't find any super short sockets anywhere.
I been hitting the fucker with a deadblow to loosen it up, but now I think I'm at the point of no return where I'm going to have to get an extractor. I would have to replace these bolts anyway. Just don't know if an extractor is going to fit over bolt due to clearance.
Surprised they used such a small bolt head on the drivetrain.
Once I saw them, I knew I was going to get fucked.
Another trick to try is to thermally shock the fastener. I've used this technique before on exhaust bolts/studs with good success. Heat the fastener up with a propane torch, it doesn't need to be cherry red just a few hundred degrees. Next, soak the fastener with something like CRC Freeze Off. Be prepared for lots of smoke and even a possible flash fire depending on how hot you got the fastener. After hosing down the fastener for 10 or so seconds, hit the top of it with a punch and a hammer. Use a solid steel hammer not a dead blow. If the fastener still won't move then STOP and either repeat or give the liquid penetrant more time to do its job. Good Luck.
Try taking the load off the rear end, if you have the suspension at full droop. You may be applying unknown pressure against the caps/straps if you have the car in the air. That little bit of pressure could be making the straps similar to how a friction lock washer works. I suck at explains stuff how my mind sees it, but if you raise the rear to close to normal ride height, it may relieve enough pressure against the straps/bolts to loosen them easily.
Judging from the bend in the shifter, that appears to be a Hurst and not a stock unit, so there will only be the one jam nut under the shifter ball. If you are looking down at the shift knob, be sure are you are turning the jam nut clockwise and/or turning the shift knob counter clockwise.
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