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ZZ's '97 GTS- Single Turbo Build

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Old April 20th, 2016, 12:53 PM   #121
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Now I needed to find a place to mount the boost control solenoid. I took some flat metal I had laying around and designed a little bracket.



This will mount to one of the holes on the underside of the intake which is meant for line routing push-in clips. I re-tapped the hole to accept a 5/16-18 bolt.





Next, I needed to find a location to add a second coolant temperature sensor for an input to the MS3. I am running the systems in parallel so I still need the stock sensors to give me the readouts on the dash.

The easiest place I could find was on the heater core supply line on the rear of the engine.



Bought an aluminum T, and two aluminum 5/8" barb to 3/8 NPT fittings. Also found a coolant temp sensor that was 3/8 NPT so it would fit into the T.



Installed. This should be hidden under the cowl as well.

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Old April 20th, 2016, 12:54 PM   #122
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Next on the list, I needed to update my oil pan drain line fitting to support -12 for my T6 turbo.

Pulled the pan off and decided to give it a little bath with some degreaser.



Here you can see the original hole I had drilled and tapped for my supercharger setup. The return line was much smaller. I think maybe a -8 return??? Either way, I had to upsize the hole, and it wasn't on the same centerline as the original hole. To create my new center, I simply clamped a piece of sheetmetal onto the inside of the pan to allow me to have a backing for a drill bit.



Re-drilled the hole out to 15/16" with a metal hole saw bit.



Fitting installed. 3/4 NPT to -12.



Next up on the list, I needed to figure out a way to adapt my old throttle linkage to the new Gen 3 throttle body. My gen 2 intake used the wire cable with a crimp on fishing weight (what I call it, I know that's not the right name LOL). The Gen 3 throttle body uses a post fitting.

In order to adapt, I decided to design a little 3d printed adapter.



The design also has a cap I can press or glue in so the wire can't back out, although due to the geometry it shouldn't regardless.

Fitting placed on the post of the throttle body.



Now the plumb weight and line placed through the gap and into the cradle of the adapter where it cannot fall out under tension.



Cap installed to keep the line in place.



It works perfectly and fully opens the throttle at full pedal, but it seems the RSI bracket that came with the fuel rails does not have the correct location for proper function. When you press the pedal, the line comes off of the guide bracket. I found though that avoiding the use of the bracket actual works better and allows correct operation.





Lastly, I got my rear brakes finished and painted, and threw on the front 13" calipers, brake pads, and calipers. I still need to add the parking brake to be finished with the brake swap.





Calipers mounted. I know, the hub is rusty and I'm lazy and didn't feel like cleaning it up and painting it black... I will at some point if I get bored.

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Old April 20th, 2016, 09:07 PM   #123
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Is the cooling system different on 97 vs other Gen 2's or are your heads installed backwards?
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Old April 21st, 2016, 08:31 AM   #124
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Originally Posted by Twinscrewd View Post
Is the cooling system different on 97 vs other Gen 2's or are your heads installed backwards?
It's actually the same head casting flipped from what I can tell.

The stock coolant temp sensor is on the front driver side on the head.

Then, the same port is used on the rear of the passenger side as the heater line feed.
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Old April 21st, 2016, 12:02 PM   #125
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Everything is looking top notch, keep it up!
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Old June 7th, 2016, 08:44 AM   #126
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Been super busy with work, house, life, etc so haven't gotten a whole lot of time the last two months to work on this. My schedule is starting to free up a little so I'm jumping back in so I can get this done and driving before summer's end.

To finish the majority of the work remaining for this build, I really need to get everything on the accessory drive and the turbo in final position so I can finish routing the hotside, cold side, and exhaust for the turbo setup.

As I've shown in many of my past posts, I had been 3D printing all sorts of variations of a new power steering bracket to get the right position so I have room to route the radiator coolant pipe, turbo hotside, and most importantly 4" exhaust between the wheel well and accessory drive belt.

I'm happy enough with the design, and frankly I just want to move forward with the build, so time to make the final bracket. First I printed out a template for the overall shape and hole centers.

For the actual material, I bought a 3/8" steel plate from McMaster-Carr, as well as a 1 3/8" steel rod to make the bosses.



3D printed template


Traced out onto my material


A bunch of band sawing..... and the bracket started to take shape.



Drilled and tapped the 3 hole pattern to hold the power steering pump. I also used a hole saw to drill the holes for the recessed mounting bolts that will sit behind the pump.



I then needed to make some bosses to standoff the bracket from the engine block. I needed to use 1 3/8" diameter so I had some overlap on the recessed holes. The bolt head and washer need to comfortably fit within the recession.







Went ahead and fitted the bottom boss, and tack welded it.



Then put the remaining two bosses onto the engine block, so I could mount the bracket with the bottom boss to make sure my positions are correct before welding.





Clamped down so I can tack-weld into place.


Welded up. Turns out the little bit of welding expertise I had gained went away over the last two months. It was also my first time welding two things this thick so there was a little bit of a learning curve there. Oh well, it's functional.



Final mounting, still need to paint it matte black. Works like a charm.



You can see how the bolt heads sit in the recessed holes which allows the power steering pump to mount over the top with no interference.



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Old June 10th, 2016, 10:47 AM   #127
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Started on my next fab project last night, making the turbo mount.

When I 3d printed this bracket, the belts were out of alignment so it printed the part out of square. Because of that I just had to layout it out by hand, old school!



Cut to general shape and got the holes punched to keep the drill on center.



Drilled all the holes for the 3/8 bolts.



Rounded the corners to make it look a little fancier and keep from jabbing myself during handling.

With my bandsaw, I had no way of making the center square hole, and my plasma cutter is only rated for 1/4" max, so I just decided to use a metal hole saw and make it round instead.





Time to make some standoff bosses to space the turbo to the right height.







At that point I ran out of time. I started working on this at 10:30 PM and finished at 12 PM. If I ever could actually get a full night to work on this stupid project it would move a little faster, but life duties call.

Last step is to cut out the top bracket to hold the turbo. I decided to just weld on an AN fitting to go below this for the drain, so I need to order that. Hopefully will get a few hours this weekend to finish it up and then the turbo will be in it's final resting place so I can create the merge and wrap up the hotside.

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Old June 10th, 2016, 12:05 PM   #128
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Looking good so far. As for the rusty brake rotor soak the hub portion in vinegar overnight then just brush it clean with a fine wire brush. It's a quick easy way to get it back to factory condition to throw a coat or two of paint on to keep it rust free the next time around.
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Old June 10th, 2016, 12:25 PM   #129
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Looking good so far. As for the rusty brake rotor soak the hub portion in vinegar overnight then just brush it clean with a fine wire brush. It's a quick easy way to get it back to factory condition to throw a coat or two of paint on to keep it rust free the next time around.
Nice! I'll have to try that. Appreciate the advice.
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Old June 10th, 2016, 01:01 PM   #130
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Nice work!
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Old June 10th, 2016, 01:14 PM   #131
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Nice! I'll have to try that. Appreciate the advice.
Sure. I used to dread cleaning rusty parts until I came across that trick. Put the part in sometime in the evening, let soak overnight then with some rubber gloves, thoroughly wire brush it under running water then dry. Takes about 5 minutes depending on the size of your brush and you are ready to paint with little effort..
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Old June 14th, 2016, 09:23 AM   #132
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Was out of town this weekend for the most part, but managed to get a little bit of time to finish the turbo mount.





Mounted on the turbo. Fitment and alignment look good. I will be welding a -12 fitting to the bottom of the center hole.



With that was able to put the turbo on the mount. I kept the "stands" a little longer than my prototype so that way I can shorten them if needed.







Where the turbo will sit more or less.





Made this ghetto-fab bracket to fix the turbo while I make the hotside.



Lastly, formed the first tube to fit into the merge. No fancy 3d printed tools this time, I just used my vice and crushed it to shape.





Seeing all of this is making me realize this setup is going to be really tight but I'm pressing on!
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Old June 15th, 2016, 02:19 PM   #133
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In this setup, there are going to be a lot of pipes running in one area, so I figured my best bet is to start at the bottom and work up to make sure I have enough room for everything.

With that being said, the first thing to tackle was the 4" exhaust. A lot of planning and staring into the engine bay went into making this pipe fit perfectly with the stock radius, without much modification other than cutting it to length.

First things first, I needed to remove the front portion of the gas tank vent. Originally there was a charcoal canister in the front that it ran to, but I've deleted that. The vent will now go to atmosphere under the car in the tunnel.

Also, the two front brake lines from the distribution block would have been essentially sitting against exhaust pipe so they need to be relocated.

Before:



After:



With the pathway clear, I could modify the 4" 90 bend to fit the turbo flange in it's current position.

Planning:



Guess, check, revise until it fit.



I'm using aluminum for the exhaust. Some say this can't be done. They are wrong. I did use 11 gauge for the first section off the turbo so that way it is plenty thick.

With driver side header installed.



With that done, started working a little bit more on the passenger hotside. I clocked the turbo flange forward some. There is a lot of strategy in trying to make this look cool, while still allowing two 40mm wastegates to fit, and tie back into the exhaust, all while still fitting the radiator hose from thermostat housing to top of radiator.



As you can see from this pic, I've angled the passenger hotside downwards as it heads back towards the header. This was on purpose, in regards to wastegate plans. Hard to explain so you'll just have to wait for pictures I'm trying to keep some symmetry in all of this as well so it looks somewhat planned.



Ordered the two gates, and a flex connector for the passenger side today. Should be here by this weekend so I can keep going!
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Old June 20th, 2016, 11:04 AM   #134
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The Turbo piping was very tight underneath the charge pipe, so I decided to lower the turbo mount down slightly before finishing the hotside.



I finally received the -12 AN weld fitting I needed to finish the turbo mount/drain.





Here you can see the finished turbo mount without the turbo in the way and how the drain fitting will route.





Also this weekend, I needed to get the new motor mounts installed so that way when I run the hotside, I don't have to worry about the height of the headers changing since I was sure the 20 year old rubber mounts would be smashed and worn out.

Turns out I was right.

Stock passenger side.



Stock driver's side wasn't smashed but was torn apart. This makes sense I guess since the passenger side is in compression and the driver's side in tension under acceleration or engine revving.





Comparison between passenger side and new Woodhouse Poly Mounts.





Lastly, here's a shot to show how I got them out. I basically just undid both sides, but left the nut on one side, then put a 2x6 with jack under the pan and lifted and rolled the engine to get the mounts out.



I had to order some more tubing to finish the hotside. It gets here Wednesday and I can continue.
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Old June 20th, 2016, 11:13 AM   #135
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Helluva project. The car is going to be a beast.
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Old June 20th, 2016, 11:17 AM   #136
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Helluva project. The car is going to be a beast.
Thanks man, appreciate it.

I've asked myself a few times since starting this why I'm doing it but I like to explore the unexplored! It'll be worth it when it's done and definitely unique.
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Old June 20th, 2016, 11:37 AM   #137
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This thing is awesome, I can't wait for you to be done haha.
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Old June 21st, 2016, 08:05 PM   #138
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Any idea why the Woodhouse mount is thicker, and if it might compress down to factory mount height when installed? I had contemplated using them but it looks like the additional thickness would cause my charge pipes to rub the hood bracing.
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Old June 22nd, 2016, 08:22 AM   #139
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Any idea why the Woodhouse mount is thicker, and if it might compress down to factory mount height when installed? I had contemplated using them but it looks like the additional thickness would cause my charge pipes to rub the hood bracing.
I would say the Woodhouse's are the original thickness of what the rubber mounts would have been when new. Rubber compresses over time and 20 years is a long time.

As for the Poly compressing, the engine is not heavy enough and will not smash them down much when new. They are very stiff.
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Old June 22nd, 2016, 10:59 AM   #140
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Tubing came in a day early. Got the driver side hotside ran and tacked. The driver side will be rigid and support the turbo. The passenger side will have a flex connector to help vibration and also alignment tolerance during install.





I go out of town tomorrow through Sunday and will be buried when I get home in work but hopefully July 4th weekend I'll be able to finish the hotside up.
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