No clock ring on the compressor housing or the turbine housing. they are both v-band. Also, I don't think your supposed to mount to the compressor housing ring due to the clearances, only on the turbine housing if you want to use it as a turbo mount.
As for accounting for sway bar movement, I'm installing brand new poly mounts, so I'm assuming movement outside of a slight twisting will be negligible. As for the twisting motion, between the two poly mounts, I don't know that there is much twist actually occurring. It's something I considered but I don't have a good way of nailing down the amount it will twist, or if it can be ignored for my purposes.
2008 SRT10 Coupe- Black w/ Silver stripes - Sold
1997 Viper GTS- Front Mount Single Turbo
I know what how things will escalate exponentially for power levels over that goal. I would rather build a stout 900-1000whp car and keep it together and have fun than be fixing it everytime I take it out. I had to turn off my ego and decide I wasn't going to be king of the world, but at this point in the hobby for me it is more about the fun of building something unique and fun than to be top dawg (which I'm not capable of anyway).
That's how we feel as well, build it to hopefully be able to stand up to a lot more and enjoy driving the car. Either way you are doing a great job! Thanks for posting the pics up!
Originally Posted by tspargo
Speaking as a newcomer to the 1000 hp world, this level of power is insane. I'm at low boost still so probably at 750-800 whp, and flooring it for any length of time is just scary. I need to find an empty airfield to drive this thing. Can't imagine what it'll be like once the boost is at it's high setting and I'm at 930 whp.
Haha, we had the same feeling as well, we didn't even want to floor it on the high boost setting scared of what might happen. However that wore off pretty quickly
They have some air strip event here, I think around spring. Hopefully we are up and running then, maybe we can check that out and hopefully have enough space to let her stretch her legs so to speak.
The swaybar will rotate the most under even compression and droop of the front wheels. If you have room it may not be a bad idea to run a brace from your turbo bracket to the chassis crossmember to take the rotational load of the turbo off of the exhaust manifolds, so your turbo isn't balancing on the swaybar .
My mind hit the panic button on March 1 and realized I have very little time to get this thing functioning for summer.
I have an extremely long list of things to do to this before it's ready to hit the road, so decided to pick a low hanging fruit this week.
I had some BC coilovers waiting in the basement I bought on Black Friday from RSI so I decided to throw those on and check something off the list. Of course as usual, this simple 2 hour project escalated to taking much longer.
Front suspension. A little bit dirty. 20 years of grease, road, and track debris. Figured while I was in there I couldn't neglect it any longer.
Before, with stock Konis and Eibach springs.
While I was in there I noticed another problem. Sway-bar links were toast. They seemed to be functioning fine but the boots were beyond repair.
Shocks/springs removed, and some serious cleanup done via a scraper, wire brush, and a lot of Gunk degreaser.
Little bit of dirt and oil knocked loose.
Took out the old sway bar links, and ordered some MOOG replacements.
Old and New:
Busted out the new coilovers. Much smaller and lighter than the stockers.
New sway bar links and coilovers installed in my freshly cleaned a-arms. Much better! Not as clean as Dave's but I can live with that.
I was planning on getting a bunch of time this weekend on the car. Surprise, I didn't
Regardless, I was able to get some work done on the manifolds.
I wanted the primaries to sit approximately 50% of the way into the 3/8" flange for welding, but when you have 5 cylinders and they all have to line up, it's very difficult to keep everything square until it's tacked.
In order to do this, I 3D printed some manifold spacers to sit into the exhaust ports and be a hard stop for the primary to rest against.
With that done, I was able to move onto making the last primary which was a huge PITA. I had very little room for the cone portion to transition the 1.75" primary to 2.25" log. Not to mention, the D-port had to be perfectly perpendicular and then the height of the 90 had to stay centered on the log for correct fitment.
Now that the last primary was completed, I could work on the actual log.
First, I cut the tube to length, then roughly marked each primary location.
With all 4 holes drilled, I could move onto final alignment and tack welding.
From concept to reality. Not too shabby for my first try. It's by no means perfect but for the first time I've ever really worked with metal fabrication, I'm not going to complain.
For fun, I threw it on the car to check clearances and see where I want to add the v-band.
Finished up both exhaust manifolds over the last week.
Learning to TIG weld with zero on-site correction and having never touched a welder of any kind in my life before this project, it's been very challenging to learn. I've got a long way to go before I'm laying beautiful welds but I'm super proud of myself for taking the plunge and making this happen on my own.
On the driver side, I have a 4" aluminum downpipe coming off of the turbo, and it needs to squeeze under the hotside and above the A/C compressor. It's a very tight space so I had to jog the hot side up immediately after the last primary to make as much room as possible.
You can see what I am talking about here with the 4" downpipe shoved in there to make sure it will fit.
Welds are not perfect but they will work just fine.
Both are done, cleaned up, and ready for some header paint and DEI wrap!
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