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ZZ's '97 GTS- Single Turbo Build

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Old December 28th, 2015, 04:21 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by tspargo View Post
Quick threadjack- Will, is that the system that's on my car- twin 450s with a -8 on each and -6 return lines?
Tom,

I think your system was a hybrid setup since we were able to use some of your existing lines. Shoot me an email and I will ask the guys to confirm.
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Old December 28th, 2015, 04:37 PM   #62
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It occurred to me that I have the car on jacks, I can just take a look myself.
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Old December 28th, 2015, 06:41 PM   #63
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I have mixed feelings with aeromotive regulators. Just personal experiences.

I didn't realize you were aiming for 900-1000.
Let me say that that's truely a perfect power goal. More gets ugly in multiple departments.
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Old December 30th, 2015, 10:25 PM   #64
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I have mixed feelings with aeromotive regulators. Just personal experiences.

I didn't realize you were aiming for 900-1000.
Let me say that that's truely a perfect power goal. More gets ugly in multiple departments.
I know what how things will escalate exponentially for power levels over that goal. I would rather build a stout 900-1000whp car and keep it together and have fun than be fixing it everytime I take it out. I had to turn off my ego and decide I wasn't going to be king of the world, but at this point in the hobby for me it is more about the fun of building something unique and fun than to be top dawg (which I'm not capable of anyway).
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Old December 31st, 2015, 01:48 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by ZZ SRT View Post
I know what how things will escalate exponentially for power levels over that goal. I would rather build a stout 900-1000whp car and keep it together and have fun than be fixing it everytime I take it out. I had to turn off my ego and decide I wasn't going to be king of the world, but at this point in the hobby for me it is more about the fun of building something unique and fun than to be top dawg (which I'm not capable of anyway).

I did the exact same thing! last summer sold the paxton was building a 1200whp plus monster, then reality told me reliability was not going to be there or would be stretched, So the motor is still being built for 1400whp plus but i will be running it detuned hoping for 1,000whp but if its 900 plus thats ok too. rather enjoy it, put miles on than have down time and wrenching all summer. These car's seem to take 900-1000 no problem with minor mods, then the 1100+ is another world and budget.
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Old January 1st, 2016, 07:42 PM   #66
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This thread is awesome. It makes me realize how slow my car which is the opposite of awesome.
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Old January 1st, 2016, 09:16 PM   #67
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Speaking as a newcomer to the 1000 hp world, this level of power is insane. I'm at low boost still so probably at 750-800 whp, and flooring it for any length of time is just scary. I need to find an empty airfield to drive this thing. Can't imagine what it'll be like once the boost is at it's high setting and I'm at 930 whp.
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Old January 2nd, 2016, 03:10 PM   #68
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Fact: At 200 mph, base seat belts keep your corpse pretty.
Fact: At 200 mph men can give birth too.

Fact: I've been to 200 miles an hour.

There is a dramatic difference between 100 and 40 miles an hour and 200 miles an hour.
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Old January 3rd, 2016, 11:05 AM   #69
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OP, impressive build. I have Scotty's car now and wanted to chime in, this info might help you or might not, won't hurt. I have made a few changes and I have to say the car runs 10x better and is much faster overall.

- removed the AEMv1 and replaced it with ProEFI 128. Like night and day. NIGHT AND DAY. 1000% improvement. Plus I can now drive wherever not stressing about an E85 station. Took four hour road trip using E85 and 93.

- changed hotside from 1.32 to 1.0 and the car spools so much faster, picked up 185whp-260whp at lower rpm's.

- took out the three Walbro 255's and replaced with two 450's. Your two 450's should be fine.

Look forward to new updates of your build.
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Old January 3rd, 2016, 12:35 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by Blue97GTS View Post
OP, impressive build. I have Scotty's car now and wanted to chime in, this info might help you or might not, won't hurt. I have made a few changes and I have to say the car runs 10x better and is much faster overall.

- removed the AEMv1 and replaced it with ProEFI 128. Like night and day. NIGHT AND DAY. 1000% improvement. Plus I can now drive wherever not stressing about an E85 station. Took four hour road trip using E85 and 93.

- changed hotside from 1.32 to 1.0 and the car spools so much faster, picked up 185whp-260whp at lower rpm's.

- took out the three Walbro 255's and replaced with two 450's. Your two 450's should be fine.

Look forward to new updates of your build.
Thanks, I am planning to use a MS3-Pro ECU. It should do everything an infinity or ProEFI could do when i'm done. I haven't decided if I will try to mess with the flex fuel initially or just run it on E85 for this first year. I have a lot to get done and ironed out prior to the tuning so I'm trying to keep things easy. Although developing the MS3 Pro for this car wasn't the easy route regardless
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Old January 3rd, 2016, 12:38 PM   #71
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I'm getting into the details of the Gen 3 intake swap.

It looks like my IAC valve from the gen 2 intake should be a direct swap.

Anyone have any comments on the TPS? Looks like Gen 2 and Gen 3 were different. I assume they both have similar outputs of 0-5V and if I put in a Gen 3 TPS will it communicate with the Gen 2 ECU okay? Anyone who has done this swap and knows how it was handled would be a great help.
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Old January 3rd, 2016, 01:04 PM   #72
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this car is just pure sex.
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Old January 3rd, 2016, 01:40 PM   #73
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The tps should be the same to my knowledge. Electronically for sure. The rotation of the sensor may be different but can't remember ( counter clockwise vs clockwise)
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Old February 1st, 2016, 01:00 PM   #74
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I haven't gotten into the garage near as much as I would like the last couple months. Part of that is due to laziness, loss of motivation, and part of it just being busy with other responsibilities.

Either way, I'm starting to realize I'm running out of time quickly before spring and need to get my butt in gear so I've started to work a little more on this lately.

A good majority of my time has gone to figuring out how to TIG weld. Having never done it before, and no one to critique my technique, other than me watching youtube videos, and going off of weld appearance, it has been interesting to say the least. I feel like I'm finally getting the hang of it, and now am just working on positioning in odd weld positions because that's how most of my welding will be done on the manifolds I need to make.

In the meantime, I've messed around with other parts of the build. Here's a few small updates.

Turbo mount:

So I had this crazy idea to use the sway bar to mount the turbo. At first pass, yes I realize that sounds ridiculous. Where my turbo is sitting, the sway bar goes directly underneath. This is by far the closest thing I have to mount to. To come off the engine block or frame rails, I would have to cantilever a bracket and it would be cumbersome and inefficient.

Here's my thought for the turbo mount. My turbo is v-band on the compressor and exhaust so there is no flange to use, so it will force me to use the oil drain.











The idea here is that the sway bar mounts will sit on the sway bar, and will fully support the turbo in the vertical direction. This will keep the cantilevered force of the heavy turbo off the manifolds.

In the side to side (engine loading), and fore-aft (manifold growth), the poly mounts will allow some flexibility to keep from cracking the manifolds.



I test fitted the turbo, and it worked great, and was allowing plenty of flex. For some reason I completely forgot to take a picture of it mounted and this was about a month ago so no dice on getting another one.

now that I have confirmed the idea will work, I will test out my new welding skills and make one out of steel.

Wiring:

The OEM front end harness runs directly through the front of the engine bay where my turbo/hotside/downpipe will be. Instead of trying to add heat shielding, or another messy fix, I decided it would be easier just to get it out of the way completely.



Step 1: remove the junk, corrugated tubing and unwrap the OEM wiring tape.



Step 2: Document every gauge and color of the wires you need to extend/move.

Step 3: Purchase every color/gauge you need. I unfortunately had to order 10 feet of every color when I really only needed about 3 feet of each.



Step 4: Unplug the battery, and snip away (after carefully deciding where you want the break to be)



I had multiple colors where there was 2,3, or 4 wires of the same gauge and color so I had to tape those and mark each side to ensure they went back correctly.

Step 5: Re-routed the back-half of the harness so I knew how long I needed to extend each wire. I will be running these around the front of the radiator and behind the crash tube.

Step 6: Extend each wire by soldering, and heat shrinking. I used a soldering station, and marine heat shrink to ensure no moisture can get into the connections.



Step 7: Make it pretty again by looming with new harness tape.



Step 8: Figure out your routing, so before soldering back together, you can cut to the correct length



Step 9: Solder and marine heat shrink all connections back together. At this point, for better accessibility, I also started covering my new harness routing in protective tubing. This is the meshed expandable kind, not the corrugated plastic.



Step 10: Tape harness and wrap with expandable mesh cover.



I also 3D printed some clips to hold it to the crash bar. I haven't installed them yet so I'll take a picture once they are in.

No more harness in my way! YAY!

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Old February 1st, 2016, 01:00 PM   #75
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Also started working on the exhaust manifolds this week.

My major fear/difficulty was figuring out how to form the primaries for the D-shape of the manifold flanges. In order to use 1.75" primaries, the circumference is pretty much a 1:1 line to line fit on the D-shaped flange, so there is zero room for error to get it to fit.

Because of this, I put my engineering hat on and decided to design a progressive die system to make the D-shaped primaries easy to form and repeatable. I 3D printed it out of solid PLA which is a very dense, stiff plastic.

The progressive die is 2 stages and will take a round 1.75" pipe to a D-shape matching the flanges.



Stage 1 simply compresses the tube to the correct width, which allows it to fit into the stage 2 die, while keeping the correct top radius.



Stage 2



Final product



Fitment in the manifold flange:



With that portion figured out, I could start forming up my primaries. Time to put the new tube notcher to work.





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Old February 1st, 2016, 01:42 PM   #76
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^ Just spectacular on the header work!
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Old February 1st, 2016, 01:55 PM   #77
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Yeah. The progressive die thing is pure genius. I follow your thread and I am more in awe every time I see progress pics.
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Old February 1st, 2016, 06:57 PM   #78
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Man I love that progressive die setup, nice work!
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Old February 1st, 2016, 07:55 PM   #79
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Progressive die was a good idea,i can honestly say i have NEVER seen anyone mount a turbo off the sway bar and ive seen a bunch of setups over the years. Interested to see how it turns out...nice job.
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Old February 2nd, 2016, 08:32 AM   #80
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Amazing work you're putting into this build!

Just, wow...
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