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ZZ's '97 GTS- Single Turbo Build

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Old December 28th, 2016, 11:32 AM   #241
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Amazing build. And this is why I always buy my cars finished. I would never have the time, patience, or skill to do something like this.
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Old January 5th, 2017, 10:46 AM   #242
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Started the transmission and clutch swap over Christmas break.

I'm removing the stock T56 and stock LUK clutch, and putting in a 2009 TR6060, new steel flywheel, and a Mcleod MIBA twin disk clutch.

While I am in there, I'm also installing a IPSCO short shifter.

Pulled out the stock T56. Looks like the breather may have been misting some oil vapor on the case over time.



stock clutch and bellhousing ready to come out.



Stock clutch and flywheel.





The clutch disk was starting to delaminate, and the pressure plate and flywheel were both heat checked. This was running at 700whp for the last two years, so it still says a lot about the stock clutch lasting under that type of power. It never slipped.









New Mcleod clutch and flywheel.



New flywheel installed.



First clutch disk and floater plate re-installed.



Second clutch disk and pressure plate installed.



Next move is to re-install the bellhousing, take some measurements for the throwout bearing clearance, and then install the TR6060. I also still need to add the stator to the trans for the speedo pickup.

Also, while I have the trans tunnel clear, I need to route my AW intercooler hoses through the tunnel, since I have a trunk reservoir, and get them clipped up and out of the way of the trans. It is two -24 hoses, so they are big boys.
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Old January 5th, 2017, 12:10 PM   #243
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Looking good! While you're in there I'd swap the pilot bearing (if you haven't already). Also, I just did this on my car and noticed the O-ring that shipped with the new slave cylinder was slightly larger than the one that was on the car; when I swapped the new O-ring onto the cars quick-disconnect it would not lock into the slave cylinder. I had to go back to my original O-ring to get the fittings to lock together.
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Old January 5th, 2017, 12:16 PM   #244
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One other thing; I noticed my stock T56 had a slightly sign of misting on the passenger side. I ended up pulling the top cover plate (in front of the shifter) and there was an obvious gap in the factory applied sealant where it appears the trans fluid was originating. Yours could have very well been coming from the vent but I had not seen that on any other T56 applications (all GM) which is why I went looking for the source.
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Old January 18th, 2017, 11:55 AM   #245
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In order to install the TR6060 transmission from a 2009 Viper, I had to do some rework to allow the speedo sensor to work correctly. My 1997 obviously does not have ABS, so there is a pickup on the transmission to relate speed. Since the newer vipers use the wheel sensors, they do not come installed or have provisions on the newer transmissions.

I stole the sensor from the T56. The good news is, the transmission case casting is the same so the spot for the sensor is still there, it's just not machined out for it.

Here you can see the sensor I need and the cast port on the transmission.





Next step was to drill out the hole, and drill and tap the M6x1.0 mounting hole.



Next, on the inside of the transmission, there needs to be a reluctor ring to pick up the rotation of the output shaft. I ordered one online, and now needed to add it to the output shaft. First things first, needed to remove the tailhousing. The reluctor is splined, so there is a small gap around the shaft and it is not a tight fit, so I needed to keep it spaced evenly. Also, I had to find the point on the shaft where it would line up with my sensor. I used some thick cardstock paper to sandwich on each side to keep it centered while I tack welded it on.



Did 2 tack welds, 1 on each side. Should hold it fine as there is no load on it.



RTV'ed the tailhousing back on, and i'm good to go!



Here you can see the reluctor ring through the sensor hole I drilled out.



Also, in order to get the new trans in, I needed to get the hose routing for the air to water intercooler finished up.

Got it routed nice and tight up in the trans tunnel. I used riv-nuts and bolts to secure the clamps.



Also got the holes cut in the front structure and routing completed to the intercooler.



I got the new slave and throwout bearing on last, night, all I have left to do is stab in the transmission and update the driveshaft yoke!
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Old January 18th, 2017, 08:37 PM   #246
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Looking great, just get some cleaner and wipe off all the grime in the trans frame tunnel...
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Old January 18th, 2017, 11:33 PM   #247
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Damn man, fantastic work!
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Old January 19th, 2017, 08:08 AM   #248
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Looking great, just get some cleaner and wipe off all the grime in the trans frame tunnel...
Haha, I knew someone would notice that. I plan to get it clean enough to eat off of before stabbing the trans back in. I'm sick of getting grease on the side of my forearms when reaching in the tunnel to guide the trans.


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Damn man, fantastic work!
Thanks man! Getting close!
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Old January 20th, 2017, 04:12 AM   #249
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You might consider fabbing up a driveshaft safety loop while you're in there. It'd be easy and cheap to do while giving you an extra layer of security should you ever have a u joint failure.
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Old January 20th, 2017, 08:20 AM   #250
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You might consider fabbing up a driveshaft safety loop while you're in there. It'd be easy and cheap to do while giving you an extra layer of security should you ever have a u joint failure.
That's probably a good idea
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Old January 20th, 2017, 05:11 PM   #251
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Comp Engineering sells a universal kit for tube chassis cars that comes with plenty of pre-bent tubing to weld one together. I made one from that kit that bolts to a reinforced section of the belly tray. Its cheap insurance, especially with the fuel lines inside the trans tunnel.
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Old January 23rd, 2017, 01:16 PM   #252
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Got the 6060 install finished yesterday. Also, I added an IPSCO short shifter while I was at it.











Also, threw in a new slave/throwout bearing for good measure.



When installing, I used my new Woodhouse Poly Trans mount. I already had installed the Woodhouse mounts on the engine when I was up there.



For the trans crossmember, I did need to slot the mount about 1 bolt diameter further back to allow the TR6060 to fit. This was expected and was an easy modification. You can see here how the flanged nut is now sitting further back.



All installed and ready to rock. Still need to put the driveshaft back in.



Next step is to clean up and modify the interior a little bit.

Main things will include:

- New single DIN head unit with bluetooth
- Satin Black painted dash and stereo surround with gunmetal accents around gauges and stereo
- LED gauge and dash lights
- New leather shift boot and e-brake handle boot with red stitching
- Moving wideband and boost gauge from pillar mount to steering column mount
- Aluminum pedal covers (for better grip and look)
- 2" seat lowering kit on driver's side
- New black 6 point Team Tech harnesses
- Heavy deep seat cleaning and carpet cleaning (leather conditioner/carpet shampoo, the whole works

Starting off by stripping the entire dash and stereo surround to paint it SEM Satin Black. My car is a 97 so the rubber dash covering is grey, and starting to get scratched in places, so I want to just update it back to a nice satin black color.

Using 'Easy Oven Off" cleaner to get off the rubber coating. Just let it soak and then scrub it off. Don't let this stuff sit on your hands. I thought it would be fine and I had chemical burns all over my hands after about 30 minutes of exposure. Not fun.



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Old January 23rd, 2017, 06:04 PM   #253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZZ SRT View Post
In order to install the TR6060 transmission from a 2009 Viper, I had to do some rework to allow the speedo sensor to work correctly. My 1997 obviously does not have ABS, so there is a pickup on the transmission to relate speed. Since the newer vipers use the wheel sensors, they do not come installed or have provisions on the newer transmissions.

I stole the sensor from the T56. The good news is, the transmission case casting is the same so the spot for the sensor is still there, it's just not machined out for it.

Here you can see the sensor I need and the cast port on the transmission.



Next, on the inside of the transmission, there needs to be a reluctor ring to pick up the rotation of the output shaft. I ordered one online, and now needed to add it to the output shaft. First things first, needed to remove the tailhousing. The reluctor is splined, so there is a small gap around the shaft and it is not a tight fit, so I needed to keep it spaced evenly. Also, I had to find the point on the shaft where it would line up with my sensor. I used some thick cardstock paper to sandwich on each side to keep it centered while I tack welded it on.



Did 2 tack welds, 1 on each side. Should hold it fine as there is no load on it.


It's a good thing you put your ground clamp near the reluctor ring. (I would have moved closer still.) You have to be careful welding on things that have bearings in the assembly. You can get an arc through the bearings that weld the balls to the race, or ruin the surface finish and cause an early demise.
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Old January 30th, 2017, 08:41 AM   #254
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One of my biggest concerns about this car is cooling. As of right now, I have two SPAL sucker fans, but one is really small and so I'm concerned whether I will have enough airflow.

For the main two SPAL sucker fans, I wired them through relays in the driver side front bumper. Each of the fans has a quick disconnect for easy removal if needed.



Due to my concerns, I decided to add another 13" SPAL pusher fan to the front of the radiator. This sits in the middle of the two fans so it will not "fight" against the others that are in sucker mode.

I roughly drew in red where the sucker fans are, so you can see what I mean and how this pusher fan fills the void.



In order to mount the front pusher fan, I designed and 3d printed some clips to press onto the frame of the condenser.



To mount the fan supports to them, I use heat inserts that melt into the plastic. They are brass and threaded, and you heat them up and sink them into the plastic.





I also spent some time this last week looming all the wires, I still need to add some more heat protection to ensure they don't melt or short out since they are close to the hotside.

Here are some final pictures of the engine bay.









And some with the GoPro:







Also, the car has officially been started on the MS3 Pro! Unfortunately I did not take a video as I was worried about looking for leaks, and checking to make sure all the sensors were reading on the laptop. I will get one up soon!
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Old January 30th, 2017, 08:56 AM   #255
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Congrats on the first firing of the engine!

Let me know what paint you use for the dash cover. I am going to paint mine as well but concerned about compatibility with the plastic.
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Old January 30th, 2017, 09:03 AM   #256
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Congrats on the first firing of the engine!

Let me know what paint you use for the dash cover. I am going to paint mine as well but concerned about compatibility with the plastic.
I am using SEM colorcoat with their "SEM Sand Free" as the primer.

I already painted the radio/shifter surround in the landau black and it really looks great, and the adhesion seems really good as well.

I'm still in the process of finishing stripping the rubber off of the big dash. What a giant PITA. I hope to never had to do this again.
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Old January 30th, 2017, 09:04 AM   #257
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looking good looking good!
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Old January 30th, 2017, 11:06 AM   #258
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I am using SEM colorcoat with their "SEM Sand Free" as the primer.

I already painted the radio/shifter surround in the landau black and it really looks great, and the adhesion seems really good as well.

I'm still in the process of finishing stripping the rubber off of the big dash. What a giant PITA. I hope to never had to do this again.
Yes, it is a tedious job, especially around the gauge surrounds and vents. I ran it under hot water in the sink and peeled it off with my hands...the more stubborn areas I had to lightly coerce with some scotchbrite. Looks good now.

I had a local place quote me for a hydrographic dip: $450! No way. That's more expensive than the new dash covers.
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Old January 30th, 2017, 11:11 AM   #259
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Yes, it is a tedious job, especially around the gauge surrounds and vents. I ran it under hot water in the sink and peeled it off with my hands...the more stubborn areas I had to lightly coerce with some scotchbrite. Looks good now.

I had a local place quote me for a hydrographic dip: $450! No way. That's more expensive than the new dash covers.
Yeah, all I have left is around the vents/gauges. It seems those places are by far the hardest as the sun hasn't dried out or damaged the coating at all so the adhesion is really good.

I'll have to try the hot water trick... I've been using oven cleaner but it is corrosive if you leave it on too long and it's a real pain to work with as it can't get on your skin.
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Old January 31st, 2017, 10:36 PM   #260
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First start video!

This was started on the MS3 Pro. I will show some details of the harness we built for this before it's all said and done.

Things went very smooth. No oil leaks, no fuel leaks, etc.

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