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ZZ's '97 GTS- Single Turbo Build

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Old November 1st, 2016, 10:35 AM   #221
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Block off your NACA duct. Install a large area panel filter ahead of the core support with a bottom opening air inlet. Top of the housing should have a 4" oval outlet facing the right headlight and making a U-snorkel over the core support and toward the compressor inlet. You may need to run a 90* bonnet inlet if space is too tight for a large radius bend.

And - speaking from recent experience - I would strongly recommend confirming that you have proper valve operation before buttoning everything up and deciding it's time to start the car.
Haha, I had redone my valve train 2 years ago when I built the supercharger setup and all was good, so I'm hoping nothing has changed. I checked the torque and pre-load on all the rockers just to make sure nothing had moved

As for the intake, thanks for the idea. I'm going to give it some thought over the winter and see what I can come up with. I'm sure I can 3d print some crazy shape to make it happen.
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Old November 1st, 2016, 12:47 PM   #222
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I take it the car isn't going to see the road this year. You're definitely in for the long haul with this build if that's the case. Don't forget to double check those hood surface tems at idle and after a few hard pulls.
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Old November 1st, 2016, 03:41 PM   #223
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I take it the car isn't going to see the road this year. You're definitely in for the long haul with this build if that's the case. Don't forget to double check those hood surface tems at idle and after a few hard pulls.
Haven't decided for sure yet. Weather is so finicky in Illinois it's hard to say. For instance it was high 70's over the weekend, where sometimes it's snowing by Halloween.

I still need to install my TR6060 and new clutch setup. Not a huge project, but just one more piece of the puzzle I haven't done yet. I'm considering getting it street tuned with the T56, but I would be really annoyed if I blew it up when I have the TR6060 already in the garage ready to go.
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Old November 1st, 2016, 03:50 PM   #224
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Congratulations thus far Zach. It looks quite inspirational. Looking forward to seeing running.
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Old November 2nd, 2016, 08:45 PM   #225
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Looks great Zach!!
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Old December 12th, 2016, 01:36 PM   #226
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Been over a month since I've posted. Weather has turned cold here in Illinois, has been for awhile now.

Charge pipe powdercoated and on, blow-off valve installed, as well as a lot of other things finished up and torqued.











Still need to finish the fan wiring and then I can loom the wires in heat shielding and wrap to keep them from getting crispy.

Now that it's cold outside, I figured I might as well go ahead and fix a few things that bother me about this setup. The first is the cooling reservoir. The stock plastic bottle was basically resting against the side of the passenger side header. Also, where the rubber shunt line was connected, it was very close to the header as well and would pickup a lot of heat and dry out the rubber.

Decided to just build a reservoir from some scrap aluminum I had laying around.

Used a piece of leftover 4.5" pipe from my exhaust tip. Cut an end cap out.



Used a flat sheet I had laying around, it's pretty thick so it will take the pressure of the tank.

I bent it by putting it in the vice at my bend lines and then just beating it over with a rubber dead blow.

















Painted wrinkle black.



the stock hardline for the radiator vent fits around it like factory.



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Old December 12th, 2016, 01:36 PM   #227
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Also needed to make an overflow bottle. I have my air to water cooler up front where it normally would be so I needed to find somewhere else to put it. With no exhaust on the passenger side of the car anymore I decided I could just simply mount it below the dirt shield where the passenger header turnouts used to run.

Once again, just made it from some aluminum scrap.

Made a mounting bracket and drilled holes for plug welds.









Welded on a boss as an overflow incase there is too much expansion I'll run a fitting and line down to the ground.

Painted it texture black.





Drilled holes in the chassis to set some riv-nuts.



Riv-nuts installed:



Overflow can mounted.

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Old December 12th, 2016, 02:07 PM   #228
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That's AWESOME!
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Old December 12th, 2016, 04:00 PM   #229
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For someone who is so obviously OCD, how can you be so blind? Your dipstick is backwards!
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Old December 13th, 2016, 08:08 AM   #230
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For someone who is so obviously OCD, how can you be so blind? Your dipstick is backwards!
I'm always playing with my dipstick and sometimes get it turned around! I'll make sure to fix it for you when I fill the engine with oil
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Old December 13th, 2016, 09:54 AM   #231
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Amazing work ZZ!!!!!

Isaac
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Old December 13th, 2016, 10:24 AM   #232
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Getting closer! Great job!

Didn't see it, but make sure to have something besides just worm clamps securing that throttle-body hose and charge pipe from blowing off!
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Old December 13th, 2016, 12:06 PM   #233
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Getting closer! Great job!

Didn't see it, but make sure to have something besides just worm clamps securing that throttle-body hose and charge pipe from blowing off!
Like what? I mean I welded on a hose bead obviously, and the throttle body has a bead as well. This car is a mild build, 900whp. I was thinking it would survive.
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Old December 13th, 2016, 03:03 PM   #234
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Nice and clean build! It's all in the details.
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Old December 13th, 2016, 05:05 PM   #235
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Like what? I mean I welded on a hose bead obviously, and the throttle body has a bead as well. This car is a mild build, 900whp. I was thinking it would survive.
Has nothing to do with being a mild build/900rwhp... its about PSI. Wiggins clamp is the best way to build one but I've seen people weld a bung on each pipe a secure it with a small aluminum strap and bolt them together. Usually will never come apart after that. A good quality T-bolt clamp is usually fine for around 18-20psi, after that i always secure them. Looking good BTW!
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Old December 14th, 2016, 07:54 AM   #236
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Originally Posted by slowturbocar View Post
Has nothing to do with being a mild build/900rwhp... its about PSI. Wiggins clamp is the best way to build one but I've seen people weld a bung on each pipe a secure it with a small aluminum strap and bolt them together. Usually will never come apart after that. A good quality T-bolt clamp is usually fine for around 18-20psi, after that i always secure them. Looking good BTW!
I only used good quality T-bolt clamps on this build, no "standard" worm clamps persay. I would have loved to use a Wiggins clamp, but on these stupid Gen 3 throttle bodies shaped like a football, I would have to weld a transition to the throttle body to be able to use a standard Wiggins clamp.

I guess when I say it's mild and 900whp, that obviously will correlate to PSI since the turbo should be fairly efficient. I'm thinking I will only end up around 12 lbs max. Heck I hope I only have to run 10 lbs but with my stock heads I doubt that will happen to see the numbers I want.
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Old December 14th, 2016, 09:02 PM   #237
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Weld bead or bead-rolled ends with t-bolts will have zero issues at those kind of boost levels. I've used the same on 25psig setups. The build is looking killer!


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Old December 21st, 2016, 08:30 AM   #238
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Originally Posted by ZZ SRT View Post
Also started working on the exhaust manifolds this week.

My major fear/difficulty was figuring out how to form the primaries for the D-shape of the manifold flanges. In order to use 1.75" primaries, the circumference is pretty much a 1:1 line to line fit on the D-shaped flange, so there is zero room for error to get it to fit.

Because of this, I put my engineering hat on and decided to design a progressive die system to make the D-shaped primaries easy to form and repeatable. I 3D printed it out of solid PLA which is a very dense, stiff plastic.

The progressive die is 2 stages and will take a round 1.75" pipe to a D-shape matching the flanges.


Stage 1 simply compresses the tube to the correct width, which allows it to fit into the stage 2 die, while keeping the correct top radius.


Stage 2

Final product

Fitment in the manifold flange:


With that portion figured out, I could start forming up my primaries. Time to put the new tube notcher to work.
Great build. Nice job. I am also doing a turbo viper project. Preparing to build my headers.

Would you be willing to sell/rent/loan your D form dies?

Thanks,

Michael
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Old December 21st, 2016, 09:28 AM   #239
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Great build. Nice job. I am also doing a turbo viper project. Preparing to build my headers.

Would you be willing to sell/rent/loan your D form dies?

Thanks,

Michael
Hey Michael,

I broke one of them at the tail end of making my headers so I just tossed them in the trash. If you can find a place that sells round header flanges, you don't really need the d-shape for function. I just did it for fun.
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Old December 21st, 2016, 10:00 AM   #240
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Hey Michael,

I broke one of them at the tail end of making my headers so I just tossed them in the trash. If you can find a place that sells round header flanges, you don't really need the d-shape for function. I just did it for fun.
Thanks. Worth asking. Bought stainless header flanges and they are D. Looks like I will have to mill something similar to what you did.

Thanks.

Mike.
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