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ZZ's '97 GTS- Single Turbo Build

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Old September 6th, 2016, 02:49 PM   #181
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Air gap is your best friend in heat shielding. If I were you I would have a custom heat shield fabbed up in a way that it can mount about a half inch above that closest point of the waste gate top hat and the hood. Also, use the heat shielding material you mentioned on the underside of the hood that way you have an air gap between the hot side of the kit and the heat shield and an air gap between the heat shield and the heat shield that is attached to the underside of the hood if that makes any sense?
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Old September 6th, 2016, 02:55 PM   #182
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Nice work Zach!
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Old September 7th, 2016, 03:12 PM   #183
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Maybe I should fasten that to the underside of the hood where contact is closest!
Nope, don't do that..... Attach the heat shield plate to the turbine housing so there is about 1/2 inch between the hotside and the bottom of the plate so there is an air gap between the two. This will keep the majority of the heat below the plate and away from the hood. If you attach it to the hood, you will transfer all the heat from the metal plate to the hood. Think about the caterpillar tractor stuff you see on the hot side or diesel trucks engine compartments wuth the turbine housing right next to the firewall... same concept.

Also, you will be the luckiest man in the world if that gold foil reflective tape prevents your coolant reservoir and power steering reservoir from melting. If the PS one melts and the fluid gets on the exhaust manifold/up pipe, you will have a weenie roast, so be careful.

Last edited by Paolo Castellano; September 7th, 2016 at 03:28 PM.
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Old September 7th, 2016, 03:54 PM   #184
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Air gap is your best friend in heat shielding. If I were you I would have a custom heat shield fabbed up in a way that it can mount about a half inch above that closest point of the waste gate top hat and the hood. Also, use the heat shielding material you mentioned on the underside of the hood that way you have an air gap between the hot side of the kit and the heat shield and an air gap between the heat shield and the heat shield that is attached to the underside of the hood if that makes any sense?
Great minds think alike Paolo

You could also have the custom heat shielding made for your turbine hot side and waste gates like I had made for my up pipes.

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Old September 7th, 2016, 07:47 PM   #185
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Great minds think alike Paolo

You could also have the custom heat shielding made for your turbine hot side and waste gates like I had made for my up pipes.

Mike I love the air gap! The custom inconel heat shielding looks great, but in my experience it just keeps the heat in for hours at a time in a Viper engine compartment. The other disadvantage to this kind of thing is the piping enclosed by the heat shielding will retain even more heat than the wrap which makes the mandrel bent piping crack sooner than if it were unwrapped.

In my experience, the best way is to get the air gap between the hot parts and the thin metal shield and let the airflow on both sides insulate and dissipate the heat more quickly than a full wrap.

Something like this: Greddy 11501800 Turbo Heat Shield for TD05 TD06 8CM2 | eBay
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Old September 7th, 2016, 10:53 PM   #186
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Point well taken Paolo. I agree with you on the air gap between the hot parts and the thin metal shield. The custom heat shields I had made have a very thin inner layer of inconnel and then has a high temperature fiber glass type material that is very light and porous in between the thicker outer layer of inconnel so this inner material simulates an airgap between the two layers of shielding. With a laser thermometer the temperature difference from covered part to uncovered part was significant.

I wonder if shields like the one you linked to would bolt onto the precision turbo as to sit right above the hot side housing on the footwell mounted Viper kits so it shields between the turbo hot side and the footwell itself?
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Old September 8th, 2016, 08:28 AM   #187
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Thanks for the advice guys.

For the power steering pump, 99turbo was nice enough to point me towards this replacement reservoir that is made out of aluminum. I just ordered it and hopefully it will take away some of my concerns.

https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...STEERING-TANK/

For the coolant reservoir, I never planned to keep it long term. I have a sheet of aluminum ready to cut and form into a reservoir, and already have the weld-on radiator cap and everything as well, just need to take the time to make it. I wanted to get the car up and running on the stocker so I would have more time before winter weather gets here, then clean up the details over the winter. For the power steering though, it's a safety issue so I don't want to cut a corner and burn my car down.
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Old September 8th, 2016, 11:42 AM   #188
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Originally Posted by viper_mike View Post
Point well taken Paolo. I agree with you on the air gap between the hot parts and the thin metal shield. The custom heat shields I had made have a very thin inner layer of inconnel and then has a high temperature fiber glass type material that is very light and porous in between the thicker outer layer of inconnel so this inner material simulates an airgap between the two layers of shielding. With a laser thermometer the temperature difference from covered part to uncovered part was significant.

I wonder if shields like the one you linked to would bolt onto the precision turbo as to sit right above the hot side housing on the footwell mounted Viper kits so it shields between the turbo hot side and the footwell itself?
Thanks Mike!

If a person were so inclined, they could either take a thin piece of stainless, roll it and just weld tabs onto it that would bolt to the center section where it clamps the hot side. If there is a V-Band, the tabls could easily be fabbed to catch the turbine inlet 4-bolt flange pattern. Then just a bit longer bolt or stud and an extra set of nuts and washers and you're off and running.

If you get a nice enough grade of stainless, you can get the cutting and coloring bars from McMaster and polish the heat shield to chrome with thr right buffing wheel/grinder that is pretty cheap at harbor freight.
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Old September 8th, 2016, 11:53 AM   #189
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Thanks for the advice guys.

For the power steering pump, 99turbo was nice enough to point me towards this replacement reservoir that is made out of aluminum. I just ordered it and hopefully it will take away some of my concerns.

https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...STEERING-TANK/

For the coolant reservoir, I never planned to keep it long term. I have a sheet of aluminum ready to cut and form into a reservoir, and already have the weld-on radiator cap and everything as well, just need to take the time to make it. I wanted to get the car up and running on the stocker so I would have more time before winter weather gets here, then clean up the details over the winter. For the power steering though, it's a safety issue so I don't want to cut a corner and burn my car down.
Zach, if I were you, I would just have the pump machined for pipe or AN and run a remote reservoir like I had recommended way earlier in your build. You have a lot of stuff going on there with the up pipe and down pipe especially having a reservoir sticking out like stock or the replacement one you just ordered that has a -6 fitting sticking out right into the up pipe that you will eventually have to modify anyway. Even if it's aluminum, sure it won't melt as easily as plastic, but it will sure as hell allow a bunch of heat to transfer to your PS fluid. Just shit can the reservoir and remove any and all possibilities that something could go wrong. Mount the reomte reservoir above the driver front shock with the fill cap sticking slightly out of the fiberglass wheel well cover for easy access to fill.

As far as the coolant reservoir is concerned, Just use a piece of 4" aluminum pipe, cap each end and weld on a bracket to mount it to the stock pickup points and weld on the filler cap and you're finished. Looks nice and clean you can weld whatever bungs to match the stock hoses can call it a day.
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Old September 8th, 2016, 12:23 PM   #190
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Originally Posted by Paolo Castellano View Post
Zach, if I were you, I would just have the pump machined for pipe or AN and run a remote reservoir like I had recommended way earlier in your build. You have a lot of stuff going on there with the up pipe and down pipe especially having a reservoir sticking out like stock or the replacement one you just ordered that has a -6 fitting sticking out right into the up pipe that you will eventually have to modify anyway. Even if it's aluminum, sure it won't melt as easily as plastic, but it will sure as hell allow a bunch of heat to transfer to your PS fluid. Just shit can the reservoir and remove any and all possibilities that something could go wrong. Mount the reomte reservoir above the driver front shock with the fill cap sticking slightly out of the fiberglass wheel well cover for easy access to fill.

As far as the coolant reservoir is concerned, Just use a piece of 4" aluminum pipe, cap each end and weld on a bracket to mount it to the stock pickup points and weld on the filler cap and you're finished. Looks nice and clean you can weld whatever bungs to match the stock hoses can call it a day.
Early in the build when you originally had recommended it, I pulled the reservoir off, and looked for a good place to put it but didn't see anything ideal. I didn't really understand that you meant to mount it directly inside of the wheel well. The new aluminum reservoir with the -6 return line should have plenty of room that I can just run a 90 bend right off the fitting, and then hard line it to keep it away from the hotside. I'll take a look tonight and see what the routing would be like for both options.

As for the coolant reservoir, I was planning on making a tank with similar shape to the original out of aluminum, with a pipe running down past my log manifold to get the rubber connection line down and out of the way.

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Old September 8th, 2016, 12:42 PM   #191
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When you say "planning" do you mean you are going run the car in it's current setup then fab the remote aluminum tanks or after?

Going back to the air gaped heat shield you'll mount over the hotside, you still want to keep a close eye on it. As a matter of fact, before you even tune or road test it, let it sit at idle with the hood fully closed and continuously feel around or use a temp gun on the hotside portion to check for warm spots as it comes up to operating temps.

If that checks out, bring clean rags and a small tool kit with you in case you need to make adjustments on your first test drive and pull over periodically to check your hotside area hood temps
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Old September 8th, 2016, 01:18 PM   #192
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When you say "planning" do you mean you are going run the car in it's current setup then fab the remote aluminum tanks or after?

Going back to the air gaped heat shield you'll mount over the hotside, you still want to keep a close eye on it. As a matter of fact, before you even tune or road test it, let it sit at idle with the hood fully closed and continuously feel around or use a temp gun on the hotside portion to check for warm spots as it comes up to operating temps.

If that checks out, bring clean rags and a small tool kit with you in case you need to make adjustments on your first test drive and pull over periodically to check your hotside area hood temps
With now ordering an aluminum PS reservoir, I might as well take the couple hours and redo the coolant reservoir now as well. I want to give this the best chance of working the first try as possible, and I'm not in a hurry.

As of now, I have no plans to put anything over the hotside. With the wrap on it, and a turbo blanket, and a decent air gap I think it will be okay.
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Old September 13th, 2016, 03:46 PM   #193
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Finally got a silicone coupler in the mail last night as was able to route and weld up the charge pipe. The coupler is a 4.5" to 3.5" reducer with 45 degree angle. I had to trim the 4.5" a little to make it more like 55 degrees, but it works great! I still need to add a bung for the IAT sensor, and possibly a spot to run the IAC bypass too.







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Old September 13th, 2016, 05:36 PM   #194
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This thread is fucking epic.
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Old September 17th, 2016, 05:01 PM   #195
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This thread is fucking epic.
Agreed. So cool to see people taking on these types of ambitious projects; we collectively learn as a group from the few who have "been there, done that" on these sorts of things. They have my appreciation for the technical information they share.
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Old September 17th, 2016, 05:03 PM   #196
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Finally got a silicone coupler in the mail last night as was able to route and weld up the charge pipe. The coupler is a 4.5" to 3.5" reducer with 45 degree angle. I had to trim the 4.5" a little to make it more like 55 degrees, but it works great! I still need to add a bung for the IAT sensor, and possibly a spot to run the IAC bypass too.







Zach, the way you made the hard piping for the boost reference ports for the wastegates looks great but I would recommend you re-route it to away from going directly over the twin pipes going into the turbine inlet. I think you will be putting too much radiant heat into the wastegate bodies and therefore the diaphragms and you could have a problem. You definitely need to make some kind of air gap standoff for where the silicone coupler comes off the TB so that you have about 1/2 inch between the hot piping and the plate and then at least that much above the plate below the silicone coupler. Also it might work better if you could shorten up the 4.5" part of the TB coupler so that you could raise up the aluminum pipe a bit getting a bit more distance between the bottom of the TB pipe and the top of the hot piping....
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Old September 19th, 2016, 01:54 PM   #197
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I like to live dangerously
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Old September 19th, 2016, 01:55 PM   #198
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i like to live dangerously
rip zz
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Old September 19th, 2016, 02:08 PM   #199
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rip zz
If all of Paolo's comments come true, every piece of my build will melt or spontaneously combust on start-up.

It was nice knowing you guys
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Old September 19th, 2016, 02:40 PM   #200
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I never had a good experience with that DEI titanium header wrap. More expensive and it literally turns into toilet paper after a few heat cycles and falls apart...
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