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Idle air control motor and carbon = stall

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Idle air control motor and carbon = stall
Old January 3rd, 2014, 06:11 PM   #1
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Thumbs down Idle air control motor and carbon = stall

I have a 97 GTS with some modifications. It typically idle at 650-700 rpm one day coming back from the store the idle went to 400-450 and the car stalled. It started up fine but had a low idle. Drove it back and parked it.
I am told it is a idle air control motor has carbon on the plunger and I should clean it.
Has anyone had this issue and how do you do it?
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Old January 3rd, 2014, 06:27 PM   #2
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Take it off and clean with carb cleaned. I know bad PVC valve motor will use a lot of oil. I would start with that.
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Old January 3rd, 2014, 06:36 PM   #3
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Yup what he said. A wire brush may be needed too. Also think about how old your plugs and wires are.. food for thought.
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Old January 3rd, 2014, 06:59 PM   #4
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It also helps to clean out the TBs. Some have had success with resetting the PCM too.
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Old January 3rd, 2014, 07:00 PM   #5
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Um I would avoid a wire brush inside the IAC at all cost. Use a synthetic bristle brush and THROTTLE BODY cleaner like CRC. Spray and agitate with the bristle brush until clean. Then spray the inside with some WD40 and shake out the excess. When you reinstall it the car will want to die the first few drives right at the start as it relearns. It took mine a month to be right again but solved the idle hang issue I had.
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Old January 3rd, 2014, 07:07 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Undrpsi View Post
Take it off and clean with carb cleaned. I know bad PVC valve motor will use a lot of oil. I would start with that.
Carb cleaner can damage seals. I would never use carb cleaner on an IAC or throttle body etc that has plastic or rubber parts.
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Old January 3rd, 2014, 08:38 PM   #7
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Also, I've found it best not to push/pull on the IAC plunger when you pull the stepper assembly out of the housing. I've killed a few by doing this. Not sure what caused them to fail internally...Maybe manually moving the plunger somehow pushed it outside of its operating range....regardless, every one I've done this to has failed.
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Old January 3rd, 2014, 08:45 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave6666 View Post
Carb cleaner can damage seals. I would never use carb cleaner on an IAC or throttle body etc that has plastic or rubber parts.
CRC Electronics cleaner and most brands of MAF cleaner are both fairly potent alternatives, but without the overly powerful rubber consuming solvents.
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Old January 3rd, 2014, 08:45 PM   #9
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A dying battery also has similar symptoms. But I'd clean the IAC first because it's free and takes less time than swapping a battery.
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Old January 3rd, 2014, 09:13 PM   #10
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Just use the product that's made for the application.

CRC Throttle Body and Air Intake Cleaner 05078: You?ve found the best Fuel Injection Cleaner at Advance Auto Parts
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Old January 6th, 2014, 12:24 PM   #11
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Pretty easy to do. The IAC comes off with just two bolts, and to clean the TBs you just need to pull the intake tubes off. I used Acetone(the primary ingrediant in many TB cleaner sprays), a tooth brush, some q-tips, and a rag to blot excess fluid out of the intake openings. The difference in drivability was immediately noticeable.



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Old January 6th, 2014, 12:30 PM   #12
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what dave said. don't use B-12 / carb cleaner on anything with a seal, rubber gasket or otherwise.
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Old January 6th, 2014, 12:41 PM   #13
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To clean the TB of my Ram Tator recommended starter fluid for the same reasons, to not damage seals. It worked extremely well.
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Old January 6th, 2014, 12:43 PM   #14
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I looked at the MSDS on CRC TB cleaner and yes its primary ingredient is acetone but the others may be to cut it for slower evaporation and to lessen the attack on seals.

For 3-1/2 coins a can, I would use the CRC
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Old June 5th, 2020, 07:25 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CWhiteRun View Post
Also, I've found it best not to push/pull on the IAC plunger when you pull the stepper assembly out of the housing. I've killed a few by doing this. Not sure what caused them to fail internally...Maybe manually moving the plunger somehow pushed it outside of its operating range....regardless, every one I've done this to has failed.
What are the symptoms of a failed IAC?

I just cleaned mine for the first time and while shoving in a q-tip past the barrel (plunger that I think you're referring to) I got it to move sideways and up/down. I was able to "pop" it back into the original position. I reassembled everything, and torqued the bolts down to about 100 lbs/inch and started the car up...

It started fine, idled fine, no codes, took it on a 2 mile drive, drives fine, drives like it used to, didn't see any improvements or decreases in performance/low speed driving.

*shrug*


I used a CRC MAF cleaner BTW as the other throttle body cleaner didn't say anything about being safe for plastics/wires/etc while the MAF cleaner specifically stated it was safe for such. Better safe than sorry.

-Wicked
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Old June 6th, 2020, 04:02 PM   #16
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So does everyone unplug the tps when cleaning the throttle bodies? I cleaned the tb on my Lexus years ago, and opened the blades on the tb, and it messed with the ecu. Took forever to get the idle back to normal. That was a drive by wire so I don’t know if a non dbw like my 98 would have any issues. They are filthy, car has 71k miles, probably never been cleaned.
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Old June 6th, 2020, 04:37 PM   #17
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DBW Toyota is a different animal, such things will not happen to your Dodge DBC. Follow the good advice above regarding chemical choice, use a cloth rag if you are overly concerned about damage to your tps. Clean the tb blade also and good to go. There is a relearn procedure for you Toyota that requires a specific set of steps and sometimes a dedicated scan tool.
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Old June 6th, 2020, 05:17 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Turbokraft View Post
DBW Toyota is a different animal, such things will not happen to your Dodge DBC. Follow the good advice above regarding chemical choice, use a cloth rag if you are overly concerned about damage to your tps. Clean the tb blade also and good to go. There is a relearn procedure for you Toyota that requires a specific set of steps and sometimes a dedicated scan tool.
Thank you sir, will be doing this tomorrow.
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