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Any Ideas on how to best adjust Anti-Squat on a gen 2?

2K views 6 replies 5 participants last post by  Jack B 
#1 ·
Looking for some ideas on how to best increase anti-squat on a 2001 for drag racing?
 
#3 ·
An adjustable rear shock would be your best bet...preferrably with adjustability on the compression AND rebound settings. Then, of course, test, test, test.

Might want give a call to the adjustable shock guys like Penske, Moton, KW etc...
 
#4 ·
Thanks - I may try and call the guys at Penske...They just rebuilt some shocks for our T/D.
I have never done much research into the factory anti squat numbers on the Viper short of Googling...I am no expert on this stuff but I know they often quote percentages like 60-120% . I was wondering if anyone had ever took measurements and ran the numbers to see what the factory delivered squat % is on a stock application or if it is even something that can be calculated on an independent rear easily?
 
#5 · (Edited)
"anti-squat" is more properly described as the projected intersection of the rear wishbone pivot and tire contact patch lines relative to the CG height and it's location within the wheelbase of the vehicle. It is a function of suspension geometry, not shock valving. You will not adjust it without a cutting torch and welding rods.



Shock valving will control the rate of weight transfer to an axle group or wheel position. Adding more "bump" or compression damping at the rear will slow the loading on the tires. Front "rebound" also has an influence on rear weight transfer, just not as much as rear bump.
 
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#6 ·
Yes, the theoretical "instant center" is fixed in the viper configuration. Shock valving is the only real means of controlling loading/unloading conditions at launch... Well, that and judicious use of the "go" pedal.
 
#7 ·
The settings at the rear (rebound/compression) will vary relative to the track prep. Some tracks are good right off the tree, whereas, some will have traction past the 60' mark.

The rear dynamics are sort of complicated, but, these are the basics:

1. The first reaction is the rear chassis rising, if you increase rebound resistance you add force to the rear tires. The amount you add is related to track prep. With great track prep increase rebound resistance even further to limit the rear body rise.

This will also change your roll out time and could cause a red light. IMO you should always try to stage shallow.

2. Once the rear is at full extension the amount of compression dictates how much force is maintained on the tires. This affects the traction from 20' to 60' (approx). This can also control wheel hop.

3. The front end is easy, with no traction you put the rebound on low resistance and the compression on high. If you already have traction you increase rebound resistance.
 
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