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Topic Review (Newest First)
October 15th, 2019 09:11 AM
99RT10&GTS
Quote:
Originally Posted by emilymoore View Post
Thanks for share this kind of information I am searching this kind of knowledge about few days my vehicle fuel tank is not working properly I am worried about that kindly telling me the cost of replacement of fuel tank my vehicle model is 2016 Nissan GTR
Well if you had a Viper, I would have a new fuel tank for you. But since you don't......
October 15th, 2019 04:36 AM
emilymoore
Cost Of Fuel Tank Replacement

Thanks for share this kind of information I am searching this kind of knowledge about few days my vehicle fuel tank is not working properly I am worried about that kindly telling me the cost of replacement of fuel tank my vehicle model is 2016 Nissan GTR
May 23rd, 2017 04:39 PM
dave6666 If it's not leaking don't fix it.
May 23rd, 2017 04:36 PM
85vett It happens but is not overly common. Easy way to tell is to just go fill it up all the way and look for a leak or even smell it.

I thought I had this problem on my 98 but it turned out to be the seal that goes to the fuel pump was leaking. Replaced it and my smell went away.
May 23rd, 2017 04:24 PM
9Eleven Anyone else having this issue? About to purchase a low mileage '02 GTS. Had a PPI completed and all they found was a shrader valve leak causing low refrigerant. Guess when they bring it back in to repair that I'll have them check this out. Crazy.....
August 11th, 2016 01:55 PM
dave6666
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luisv View Post
The closeout panel.

This is Dodge Part Number 04848582AB.



It is NO LONGER IN PRODUCTION. Your only option to to make it yourself (using the panel you cut out) or get a used one.
Um. I looked up that part number at my usual Mopar parts outlet and got one in 8 business days. Brand new OEM part.

Summary: Option 3) buy it from the dealer
June 24th, 2016 08:37 AM
Luisv
Quote:
Originally Posted by dave6666 View Post
So what is this date range of bad tanks?

And did you try hot air welding the tank? Which is the only true correct repair.
Only true repair... perhaps... if you want to repair vs replace. I'm not a big fan of patch fixing anything holding fuel. I tried the fix with the epoxy to stop the problem because it happened when I was on a road trip. In my opinion, the only true repair is a replacement tank. It's poly for a reason.... cheap to replace.

Having said that, no I did not try to weld the tank. But here's why.

The problem is where the leak is. The leak is in the seam formed by the filler neck and the tank. The problem is that neck is glued in and the neck is pushed/pressed in from inside the tank. The leak is a seepage leak coming out from the neck.

Where it sits, the neck is impossible to weld on. There is no way you are getting to the top side of the neck. Bottom line, you are pulling the tank. If I'm pulling the tank, I'm replacing it. Too much work involved to save the tank price. On a GTS. On an RT10... easier, but still work.

As for the years involved, as far as I have been able to find, you are talking late 2001 and 2002 cars. It seems there was a vendor change or the vendor used a different adhesive, nobody seems to know for sure. Not all the tanks fail, but the trend seems to be with those model years.

What would have been the best bet would have been to mold the neck into the tank when originally and this would never arise. It's a poly tank. If you can mold a threaded neck onto the top to accept the pump and sender, you can mold in a 2" neck.
June 24th, 2016 06:58 AM
dave6666
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luisv View Post
No, to date I have not found a fuel cell or replacement/aftermarket tank. Used tank is the best bet for a quick resolution. BTW, not a bad one. It's only a certain set of tanks that had the issue. A good used tank will last a long long time.



No chance here. No matter what I tried, the leak would return after a few fill ups.
So what is this date range of bad tanks?

And did you try hot air welding the tank? Which is the only true correct repair.
June 24th, 2016 06:47 AM
Luisv
Quote:
Originally Posted by martyb View Post
I feel your pain Dave, I went through this with my 01 last fall. I could not find a new tank, ended up with a used one from Jon B, did the entire swap in an afternoon in my garage. I also saved my old tank, and one day I am going to see if someone can properly repair it so I have a back up tank. Job is pretty simple overall.

Best of luck!
This is a good idea. I did the same. Plan is to have an aluminum tank made and coal epoxy painted. Then put it in. It'll be pricey because of the custom shape, but worth it.

I am currently in the process of doing a tank swap on my boat. We are going with coal epoxy painted aluminum. If it can take 20+ years on a boat.... A car is a cake walk for 30+ years.
June 24th, 2016 06:42 AM
Luisv
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave T(BADVENM) View Post
Great information. My recently acquired 2002 GTS was fine with just under one half tank. Almost on empty I put in 10 gallons. Come out a bit later to find much of it on my garage floor. So, looks like I'll be looking for or maybe attempting to fix this myself as it would appear I have the same problem as quite a few other 2001-2002 GTS owners. Currently have a pan underneath the car to collect the fuel until it stops, hopefully right below the filler neck/tank connection point. Fuel gauge showed maybe 3/4 of a tank with the 10 gallons I added.

Any new information regarding availability of fuel cells for Gen 2 Vipers or am I stuck finding a used tank?
No, to date I have not found a fuel cell or replacement/aftermarket tank. Used tank is the best bet for a quick resolution. BTW, not a bad one. It's only a certain set of tanks that had the issue. A good used tank will last a long long time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave T(BADVENM) View Post
Is it possible to correctly fix the filler neck issue without removing the tank?
No chance here. No matter what I tried, the leak would return after a few fill ups.
June 22nd, 2016 08:53 AM
Red Snake Sorry to hear Dave. I hope the dealer you bought from is stepping up for you. I would be pissed if my just purchased TT car had an issue like that.
June 22nd, 2016 05:55 AM
martyb I feel your pain Dave, I went through this with my 01 last fall. I could not find a new tank, ended up with a used one from Jon B, did the entire swap in an afternoon in my garage. I also saved my old tank, and one day I am going to see if someone can properly repair it so I have a back up tank. Job is pretty simple overall.

Best of luck!
June 21st, 2016 11:42 PM
Dave T(BADVENM) Is it possible to correctly fix the filler neck issue without removing the tank?
June 21st, 2016 04:53 PM
Dave T(BADVENM) Great information. My recently acquired 2002 GTS was fine with just under one half tank. Almost on empty I put in 10 gallons. Come out a bit later to find much of it on my garage floor. So, looks like I'll be looking for or maybe attempting to fix this myself as it would appear I have the same problem as quite a few other 2001-2002 GTS owners. Currently have a pan underneath the car to collect the fuel until it stops, hopefully right below the filler neck/tank connection point. Fuel gauge showed maybe 3/4 of a tank with the 10 gallons I added.

Any new information regarding availability of fuel cells for Gen 2 Vipers or am I stuck finding a used tank?
December 25th, 2014 06:32 PM
plumcrazy awesome writeup. never saw so much info on this before
December 25th, 2014 06:29 PM
Luisv
Quote:
Originally Posted by jojogts View Post
Awesome write up man...
Quote:
Originally Posted by 8.0L>1.8T View Post
Holy cow that's a GREAT write up! Great work man!
Thanks....
December 25th, 2014 03:16 PM
8.0L>1.8T Holy cow that's a GREAT write up! Great work man!
December 25th, 2014 12:17 PM
jojogts Awesome write up man...
December 25th, 2014 10:34 AM
Luisv Ok so closing everything off. Now that the tank vent lines are in we slide the tank back into place. If you noticed the old tank when it came out, the front of the tank is scuffed a bit from rubbing against the panel we cut out. Logic is that the new one will do the same. To avoid this I put in a panel of sound deadener. It will take the rub on the aluminum sheet and will protect the tank more.

Once in place, I re attach the filler hose to the tank. Below is the tank in position. Again, you can see the edge with the drilled rivet holes.



The filler neck attached.



Now it’s time to put the pump and sender back in. I’ve cleaned the top of the unit off and did the ring as well. To get the sender in you need to put the sealing rubber ring (removed from the old tank) into the new tank. Once that is in, you can put the pump and sender unit back in. Go slow, be mindful of the sender and float. As you get the unit down in the opening make sure the rubber ring goes around the unit and is seated well in the rim.

Get the retainer ring and spray a little silicone grease or white lithium grease on the threads. Trust me… a great deal easier to replace. Then thread it down. NOTE HERE. There is an arrow on the ring. This tells you where the first thread is. Orient that so it points straight to the left (driver side) and then thread it one. Go slow, make sure it goes in evenly. I was able to hand tighten all the way down and then I used the rubber mallet and blunt punch to tighten it down. In my case, all I needed to do is go down about turn with the mallet.

Once I had the pump assembly in this is how it looks.



Once that is in, I tighten the strap down through the wheel wells again.



At this stage, I double check all the fittings and filler neck. Once it’s all confirmed tight, go ahead and put in the fresh fuel. Once the fuel is in there, reconnect the positive terminal to the battery. With power, you can cycle the key to the “run” position and back a few times WITHOUT STARTING the engine. This will prime the pump and lines to the front. Once you’ve done it a few times, you will hear the pump sound different. A deeper tone. That will tell you it’s primed well enough to start the car. At this point, start the car and run it for a few minutes. Don’t gas it, just let it run a bit. This will pressurize the lines and purge any little bits of air you may have in there. As the car runs, check the fuel line attached to the pump for leaks. If you have nothing after a few minutes, you should be good.

Time to close everything up. Get that closeout panel and run a bead of RTV along the edge. I put in about a inch bead all around. Then in the lower corners of the panel I added a good amount of RTV. I then bring it in carefully and put in place. I then set the pop rivets in place. I line all the holes up with the rivets. Once I am there, I start setting the rivets. I used a pneumatic rivet gun. You can do it with a manual riveter, but it’ll be tougher. As you pull the rivets, make sure you push the panel in tight against the opening so the rivet catches well. Once you have all the rivets tight you will be here



Now replace the interior and go to the gas station to fill the tank!

That's it.... the procedure as best as I can put it together.

Again, if there is any question........ please let me know.
December 25th, 2014 10:33 AM
Luisv So at this point I did some cleaning getting ready for the new tank. I started with the tray. The silver tray in the photo is just lying there. The tray is a heat shield and catch all for the tank. It’s just an aluminum insulated tray. Easy way to clean it is to take it out, clean the heavy grease off with some Kerosene. Once the heavy stuff is off, I hit it with a degreaser and then water.

I continue cleaning everything I can see. The exposed frame, the top of the differential and the top side of the wheel wells all got well cleaned. No residual dirt or grime in there now. I even cleaned off the lines to get them nice and clean. I left it looking as clean as it was when it left Conner Ave. Well, as close as a 12 year old car can get.

Next, I had to clean the edge of the opening. Where the closeout panel will eventually get adhered to. The cleaning of the edge is done with the angle grinder with a cookie on it to clean off the residue on the edge. With the edge clean, I can easily mark the edge for the holes.

At this stage, get the closeout panel again. Place it back over the hole, without the tank there, and then mark all the holes. Again, make sure you have in there where it goes. An extra set of hands helps. Then mark the holes. Remove the panel and set it aside again.

Drill the holes for the pop rivets. I used aluminum pop rivets. I drilled 3/16 holes for the pop rivets. I used 3/16” diameter pop rivets with large dome heads.
Now time to get the new tank back in.

Here is the new tank with the strap in place.



Below I have the tank positioned in place and I start attaching the lines again. With the strap there I can connect the vent lines. Note the lines go over the strap. You will not be able to get the strap in place after the lines are connected.



Each vent fitting in the next two shots. In this shot you can get a view of the cleaned edge and the drilled holes for the pop rivets.




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