Viper Alley - Dodge Viper Forum -SRT Viper - Reply to Topic
Go Back   Viper Alley - Dodge Viper Forum -SRT Viper » Viper Alley » Viper Discussions - Gen I & II » Trouble getting driveshaft and shift knob off
» Live Feed « · War Room · Graffiti Wall · Arcade · Viper Blogs ·  

Viper Discussions - Gen I & II Discussions of Viper-related subjects covering Gen-I and Gen-II models.

Thread: Trouble getting driveshaft and shift knob off Reply to Thread
Post Icons
You may choose an icon for your message from the following list:

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Viper Alley - Dodge Viper Forum -SRT Viper forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
Please select your insurance company (Optional)


Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

Topic Review (Newest First)
November 29th, 2015 12:12 AM
Don22388 Glad u got it out! Driveshaft bolts are always a dick to get off and they all strip. All u need is a little patience and finesse.
November 28th, 2015 07:51 PM
dave6666 A deadblow hammer is designed to have zero acute impact shock. Completely the wrong tool hence my suggesting a punch and hammer.

Anywho, glad you got it. The next step would have sucked even more.
November 28th, 2015 03:23 PM
thetalonguy Yup, that was it :-D. I thought I had a short shifter kit, but never confirmed.

Going to change out the knob anyway since it has the Fangs logo.

Thanks guys, appreciate the quick responses.

Sent from Free App
November 28th, 2015 03:12 PM
CottonMouth Judging from the bend in the shifter, that appears to be a Hurst and not a stock unit, so there will only be the one jam nut under the shifter ball. If you are looking down at the shift knob, be sure are you are turning the jam nut clockwise and/or turning the shift knob counter clockwise.
November 28th, 2015 03:00 PM
21Bubba You are trying to loosen the nut aren't you? Turning it away from the ball.
November 28th, 2015 02:57 PM
thetalonguy Success! Bolt extractor with wobble. Hammered on the extractor, hammered on the wobble, then I was able to crack them. The spline box wrench took care of the rest.

Thanks for all the suggestions; I love the alley tech.

How about the shifter? There seems to be only one nut. I don't even see where else it would come off. Is that black plastic collar under the boot OEM?Attachment 116914Attachment 116922Attachment 116930Attachment 116938

Sent from Free App
November 28th, 2015 02:01 PM
Cap'n Hook Try taking the load off the rear end, if you have the suspension at full droop. You may be applying unknown pressure against the caps/straps if you have the car in the air. That little bit of pressure could be making the straps similar to how a friction lock washer works. I suck at explains stuff how my mind sees it, but if you raise the rear to close to normal ride height, it may relieve enough pressure against the straps/bolts to loosen them easily.
November 28th, 2015 12:52 PM
Originally Posted by thetalonguy View Post
Surprised they used such a small bolt head on the drivetrain.
I think that the forces are predominantly shear forces, not toward the head.

Anyway, all the other suggestions above are great. If you've rounded the head of the bolt, perhaps vice grips are a last resort to try to turn it.
November 28th, 2015 12:23 PM
CottonMouth Another trick to try is to thermally shock the fastener. I've used this technique before on exhaust bolts/studs with good success. Heat the fastener up with a propane torch, it doesn't need to be cherry red just a few hundred degrees. Next, soak the fastener with something like CRC Freeze Off. Be prepared for lots of smoke and even a possible flash fire depending on how hot you got the fastener. After hosing down the fastener for 10 or so seconds, hit the top of it with a punch and a hammer. Use a solid steel hammer not a dead blow. If the fastener still won't move then STOP and either repeat or give the liquid penetrant more time to do its job. Good Luck.
November 28th, 2015 12:02 PM
ishootstuff I use a 1/4" drive 8mm socket with a wobble extension.
November 28th, 2015 11:52 AM
Trouble getting driveshaft and shift knob off

Tried a few different things today. PB has been on for about 24 hrs with several reapplications.

Bought a spline box end wrench figuring it would grab more. It did initially, but then it started rounding again.

Couldn't find any super short sockets anywhere.

I been hitting the fucker with a deadblow to loosen it up, but now I think I'm at the point of no return where I'm going to have to get an extractor. I would have to replace these bolts anyway. Just don't know if an extractor is going to fit over bolt due to clearance.

Surprised they used such a small bolt head on the drivetrain.

Once I saw them, I knew I was going to get fucked.

Sent from Free App
November 28th, 2015 07:22 AM
2001GTS What Dave said, and of course hit both sides of the bolt with penetrating fuild.

Second, someone probably used loctite Red.

I used a short socket on mine, it took a 1/4" drive however.
Also try putting the socket on first then attaching the extension.
November 28th, 2015 07:02 AM
dave6666 Please be aware of a few things. Penetrating fluids can take up to 24 hours to be effective. 5 minutes, 15 minutes, or even an hour, is not going to be effective. Heat, at least enough to be effective, can destroy temper and seals. I would avoid it.

A penetrating fluid applied and left for an extended time, combined with light strikes to the end of the head of the screws, should loosen them. This may take a while. Like days. Keep reapplying penetrating fluid, and use a punch and hammer to strike the end of the head of the screws.
November 28th, 2015 06:52 AM
LifeIsGood The shift knob has a locking nut...

November 27th, 2015 09:58 PM
BAD68GTO FYI 5/16", 3/8, 10mm and 7/16" are all my ground ones off the top of my head. I am 47 and near done with working on cars unless it is fun or our of necessity.
November 27th, 2015 09:13 PM
BAD68GTO Grind the 5/16" wrench where it hits, they are cheap even if it is a Snap-On. I ended up grinding a few of my wrenches-esp for header bolts and still work fine for other uses. Don't over-think a wrench and grind a hair if needed.
November 27th, 2015 08:48 PM
gage +1 on PB Blaster and heat
November 27th, 2015 07:24 PM
thetalonguy None of my shallows seemed to fit the bill. Going to take a ride tomorrow morning to see if I can find a super shallow one.

Just weird that it was starting to strip so quickly. Wasn't like it I was forcing it and it started to strip.

I'll try heat and hammering tomorrow. Definitely don't want to fully strip the bolts. I'll get the beers on the ice.

Sent from Free App
November 27th, 2015 06:19 PM
Don22388 A shallow socket wont fit on the driveshaft bolts? Ive had this trouble before on other vehicles. Theyre definitely tough to take off. What I would try is spraying a little pb blaster or lubricant on the bolts and let it sit for a little while. After u do that try to fit a shallow socket or just put a wrench on the bolts and tap the bolts with a hammer or chisel to loosen the bolts up a little. And if that don't work put some heat on the bolts and that should get them lose enough to use a wrench. Just DONT strip the bolts, otherwise ull be prying them out and replacing them. Goodluck
November 27th, 2015 05:28 PM
Trouble getting driveshaft and shift knob off

I'm trying to drop my transmission to replace the slave and the clutch. For the life of me, I can't get the damn 4 bolts undone to remove the driveshaft. I was trying to use a 5/16" wrench, but the closed end wouldn't fit over the bolt as the wrench head was too thick. I tried the open end and it just started to strip.

So I ran to the store to buy another 5/16" wrench that had a thinner material head. No dice, the closed side fit, but it was just easily stripping. I tried on the other bolts that I hadn't touched and it began to strip them. It was all doused in BP Blaster, but it was weird because they began to strip almost immediately.

Not sure how to get them off otherwise. Sockets won't clear, so I don't think a bolt extractor is going to work. Any ideas? Am I missing some sort of special tool?

Also, having an issue getting the aftermarket shift knob off the car. I put a wrench on the slotted nut and it's not moving at all. Even tried vice grips and it still won't turn. There just seems to be the one slotted nut on the shaft. Definitely missing something here.

Not the way I had envisioned this project would start. Here are pics for reference.

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:48 AM.

vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2021 DragonByte Technologies Ltd. is in no way affiliated with Daimler Chrysler. Dodge, Viper, RT/10, the Viper logo and likeness are registered trademarks of Daimler Chrysler.
The contents of this site are owned by ViperAlley.Com and may not be used or reproduced without the express written permission of the Administrator.