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How to remove the rear upper A-Arm on a Gen II

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How to remove the rear upper A-Arm on a Gen II
Old April 13th, 2014, 06:03 PM   #1
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How to remove the rear upper A-Arm on a Gen II

I am into doing upgrades for my Gen II, so the car is on jack stands with the rear brakes already removed. There is a ball joint press that would work for the lower A-arm as well as the front A-arms...but you would have to remove the half shafts to use that press for the rear upper A-arm and I did not want to do that.

So here you go...
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Old February 15th, 2015, 03:33 PM   #2
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Where exactly are you hitting?
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Old February 16th, 2015, 05:41 PM   #3
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I'm fairly certain that he was hitting the prybar and not the casting. I still don't like striking (even indirectly) a cast aluminum critical suspension component.
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Old February 16th, 2015, 06:33 PM   #4
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Thats hard to do with a pry bar. Get a pickle or ball joint separator. Use a BFH and 3 hard strikes should dislodge it.
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Old April 7th, 2015, 09:09 AM   #5
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You are whacking the side of the pry bar with the hammer (where the red dot is). The vibration will cause the ball joint to slip out. I got this from someone who works on these cars all of the time...Chuck Tator. It should only take one well placed whack.
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Old May 5th, 2017, 10:29 AM   #6
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So I'm about to replace the upper ball joints. Couldn't you just unscrew the upper joints to get the control arm to release from the hub? Or did you want the joint to come out with the control arm as an assembly?
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Old May 5th, 2017, 10:36 AM   #7
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Unscrewing the ball joint from the control arm will not release the tapered fit ball joint spindle from the hub carrier. It must be pressed out.
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Old May 6th, 2017, 01:39 AM   #8
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Unscrewing the ball joint from the control arm will not release the tapered fit ball joint spindle from the hub carrier. It must be pressed out.
Well fuk.
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Old May 6th, 2017, 11:42 AM   #9
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So I'm about to replace the upper ball joints. Couldn't you just unscrew the upper joints to get the control arm to release from the hub? Or did you want the joint to come out with the control arm as an assembly?
Without the Miller Tool specifically made for this, then the basic pickle fork is the best option. Just be as careful as you can not to heavily gouge the aluminum forgings when splitting them.

The downside with the fork is that you will always tear up the boots. The factory joint boots are extremely well engineered pieces and interchange over many Chrysler vehicles. Get some new ones at the dealer for about $4 apiece.
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Old January 8th, 2020, 06:47 AM   #10
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thanks for the help
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Old September 11th, 2020, 08:20 PM   #11
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nice, thanks
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