Ok so closing everything off. Now that the tank vent lines are in we slide the tank back into place. If you noticed the old tank when it came out, the front of the tank is scuffed a bit from rubbing against the panel we cut out. Logic is that the new one will do the same. To avoid this I put in a panel of sound deadener. It will take the rub on the aluminum sheet and will protect the tank more.
Once in place, I re attach the filler hose to the tank. Below is the tank in position. Again, you can see the edge with the drilled rivet holes.
The filler neck attached.
Now it’s time to put the pump and sender back in. I’ve cleaned the top of the unit off and did the ring as well. To get the sender in you need to put the sealing rubber ring (removed from the old tank) into the new tank. Once that is in, you can put the pump and sender unit back in. Go slow, be mindful of the sender and float. As you get the unit down in the opening make sure the rubber ring goes around the unit and is seated well in the rim.
Get the retainer ring and spray a little silicone grease or white lithium grease on the threads. Trust me… a great deal easier to replace. Then thread it down. NOTE HERE. There is an arrow on the ring. This tells you where the first thread is. Orient that so it points straight to the left (driver side) and then thread it one. Go slow, make sure it goes in evenly. I was able to hand tighten all the way down and then I used the rubber mallet and blunt punch to tighten it down. In my case, all I needed to do is go down about ¼ turn with the mallet.
Once I had the pump assembly in this is how it looks.
Once that is in, I tighten the strap down through the wheel wells again.
At this stage, I double check all the fittings and filler neck. Once it’s all confirmed tight, go ahead and put in the fresh fuel. Once the fuel is in there, reconnect the positive terminal to the battery. With power, you can cycle the key to the “run” position and back a few times WITHOUT STARTING
the engine. This will prime the pump and lines to the front. Once you’ve done it a few times, you will hear the pump sound different. A deeper tone. That will tell you it’s primed well enough to start the car. At this point, start the car and run it for a few minutes. Don’t gas it, just let it run a bit. This will pressurize the lines and purge any little bits of air you may have in there. As the car runs, check the fuel line attached to the pump for leaks. If you have nothing after a few minutes, you should be good.
Time to close everything up. Get that closeout panel and run a bead of RTV along the edge. I put in about a ½ inch bead all around. Then in the lower corners of the panel I added a good amount of RTV. I then bring it in carefully and put in place. I then set the pop rivets in place. I line all the holes up with the rivets. Once I am there, I start setting the rivets. I used a pneumatic rivet gun. You can do it with a manual riveter, but it’ll be tougher. As you pull the rivets, make sure you push the panel in tight against the opening so the rivet catches well. Once you have all the rivets tight you will be here
Now replace the interior and go to the gas station to fill the tank!
That's it.... the procedure as best as I can put it together.
Again, if there is any question........ please let me know.