A few more of many questions, but first, just a bit of info on my goals for this car ( to help shed some light on the basis of my questions ) I am looking to put together a 1400+ RWHP daily driver. Something that I can cruise comfortably, go out on a Friday night with, pump the stereo, pick up chicks and did I forget to mention, utterly annihilate anyone that tries me? My questions are; 1) For a mostly street driven car (rarely the dragstrip debuts) how much torque is the stock chassis equipped to deal with? 2) At what power level does increased rigidity become a must? 3) If necessary, what are some of the available streetable upgrades for stiffening the suspension? 4) Is there a setup that will afford traction at the strip without sacrificing handling or comfortable streetability? I prefer a roadrace type of setup, with the exception of the oversteer ( I know to expect monumental amounts of oversteer ) I want a car that handles better than it did in stock trim. I know that the amount of power that I am looking to acheive all but negates this concept, but humor me fellas. (I have skills as a driver)
Thanks, I'll keep it in mind.
Nice ride, that's the one I am hoping to get. I found one with 7300 miles on it for 52k. If the owner still has it in 2 weeks, I might just buy it.
How fast do you drive and what kind of tires to you want to run everyday? On street tires with ~900rwhp (srt-10) nothing sticks until 100+ mph. You will need to go 170+ ,maybe faster, for 1400rwhp to stick with street tires. I don't know if you want to be going sideways at 170 so you would have to put that kind of power down and find out where it spins. When you do that make sure you get it on video because I would love to see that!
Seriously, if you want a road course setup then you could run pilot sport cups, toyo or hoosiers and put down 1000rwhp around 100 mph and not spin but I don't think they would handle much more.
I have a heffner setup and he can get the job done for you but I think the power, unless it is a one off, will max out at around 1250rwhp with a srt. Heffner will do it right and the car will be awesome. Underground can also do a kit for you and make around 1400rwhp. They use bigger turbos on the srt than heffner.
I really don't see the point of having more than 1200rwhp because you probably will never be going fast enough to use it unless you are on slicks or maybe BFG's.
Consider a half cage to save your bacon. You don't need to stiffen the car for your application - though motons all round or similar will give you the adjustability to have good street settings and track settings as your prefer (after a bit of tuning on them).
Underground Racing, Heffner, and Paolo (CPE), and SVS have all done 1400rwhp cars. If you want reliable power - dry sump would be on my must have list - but then few have done that - so you could choose to take the risk like most everyone else. However you should be aware that not all TT cars "kept going" if you know what I mean..., so I'll say it again, dry sump is cheap enough IMHO... and now you can get dry sump to suit air con. nuf said ;-)
traction - as above. On street tires - even 860rwhp was loose as a goose until the top of 3rd gear. 1400rwhp is another world and will be more for bragging rights than actual use on the road.
If you want to see if it will hook at 150mph+ then consider a Quaife diff - it does help keep the car straight. MArk Williams half shafts are essential if you want to run slicks anytime. Your tuner of choice can recommend their favourite clutch...
your trans will be a crap shoot.... you might get a good one you might not - and that is whether you spend $5k with G-force or not. Either way you will need to be very smooth on the shifts as those boxes will shear input shafts and gears with the slightest flaw or poor shift under power.
You will want to detune it most of the time to actually enjoy it - 800-900rwhp is FUN. After that you will have a deeper experience of the power of God each time you give it WOT and that is on any rubber short of slicks on a prepared dragstrip.
I do realize that anything over the 800 RWHP mark is ludicrous. I also feel that if the money will be spent turbo charging to get any type of HP gain over stock, might as well go all the way. 800 RWHP on pump gas as a conservative "daily driving" mark, with the room to make upwards of 1400+ RWHP on race fuel with a killer tune. A built trans, rear, driveshaft, axles, slicks to plant the power for the 1/4 , what about suspension or chassis upgrades? And who was it that said I should become a paid member to get help?? You guys are great, thanks a bunch! Eggz.
What is the most amount of power you have experienced?
The most power that I had the pleasure of driving was a freinds GN that was running 8.60's in the 1/4. He let me drive it on the street and the car was a handful. I put my foot in it from a dead stop and the car basically sat there boiling the hides. I also put my foot in it from a rolling start, about 75 MPH. The car got totally sideways then hooked, this was about 3/4 throttle in 3rd (3 speed automatic) I almost kissed a row of parked cars at which point my buddy asked if I could pull over. On another note, I know it's not the same, but I routinely run 180+ MPH on my CBR 1000 sportbike. It's a totally different experience between bike and car, but I have gone very fast. As for Oversteer in a car, I look for every oppurtunity to take corners on the gas in the rain or snow. I have experience driving a car sideways, just not that fast. As for street driving, my guess is that I would have the car mildly tuned on pump gas for reliability and to avoid hitting any poles or parking in some poor unsuspecting souls living room. The big power would be reserved for the 1/4. As for road racing, again, a mild tune for usable power at the track. 1400+ RWHP, mostly for bragging rights. I don't take chances where I would hurt anyone but myself (with the exception of the time that I test drove a 2005 Mustang GT, I took a turn at about 40 MPH, I clutched it, revved it, dumped the clutch mid turn and went sailing sideways through the turn. A controlled "Drift" nicely done. The car salesman, with his feet up on the dash, barely uttered the words "I got kids at home man..") Great fun, a Kodak moment for sure. On the street, I wouldnt be comfortable "drifting" a 90k car at speeds over 100 MPH. That type of oversteer, I would play with at the track. We'll see how it plays itself out. Eggz.
Last edited by noobafet : May 28th, 2007 at 04:09 AM.
A few more of many questions, but first, just a bit of info on my goals for this car ( to help shed some light on the basis of my questions ) I am looking to put together a 1400+ RWHP daily driver. Something that I can cruise comfortably, go out on a Friday night with, pump the stereo, pick up chicks and did I forget to mention, utterly annihilate anyone that tries me? My questions are; 1) For a mostly street driven car (rarely the dragstrip debuts) how much torque is the stock chassis equipped to deal with? 2) At what power level does increased rigidity become a must? 3) If necessary, what are some of the available streetable upgrades for stiffening the suspension? 4) Is there a setup that will afford traction at the strip without sacrificing handling or comfortable streetability? I prefer a roadrace type of setup, with the exception of the oversteer ( I know to expect monumental amounts of oversteer ) I want a car that handles better than it did in stock trim. I know that the amount of power that I am looking to acheive all but negates this concept, but humor me fellas. (I have skills as a driver)
I rode in Shank's SRT10.......UGR 522CI TT.....900rwhp on 93 octane. On 75 degree day on Pirelli 20's car was useless <3rd gear. 3rd gear was hit or miss depending on road. Clutch was done after 3 months (don't remember what it was but it didn't like slipping when pulling away from a light and finally crapped out. Kinda normal for any clutch though, they do fail.
I know for me, to start, 900rwhp would allready be too much. But after driving for a bit I'm sure I'd get used to it and want more...........I think even for the best drivers with 900+rwhp in any car you have to think of where you are driving. If you have crap roads you have no need for that power ever on street. If you are only going to road race, 900+rwhp will make you slower than a 200hp miata. Think about your app before you do a rediculous build.
I rode in Shank's SRT10.......UGR 522CI TT.....900rwhp on 93 octane. On 75 degree day on Pirelli 20's car was useless <3rd gear. 3rd gear was hit or miss depending on road. Clutch was done after 3 months (don't remember what it was but it didn't like slipping when pulling away from a light and finally crapped out. Kinda normal for any clutch though, they do fail.
I know for me, to start, 900rwhp would allready be too much. But after driving for a bit I'm sure I'd get used to it and want more...........I think even for the best drivers with 900+rwhp in any car you have to think of where you are driving. If you have crap roads you have no need for that power ever on street. If you are only going to road race, 900+rwhp will make you slower than a 200hp miata. Think about your app before you do a rediculous build.
The clutch Shank had is one he wanted to use before the Meba lining was released. The clutches we use now are lasting a long long time on the street
Good to hear....was funny to hear that thing "honk" when engaging the clutch. lol. Was a badass build none-theless.
I was amazed at how quiet it was outside of the car. Just heard a whoosh as it went by. Inside the car was a different story lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by UnderGroundRacing.com
The clutch Shank had is one he wanted to use before the Meba lining was released. The clutches we use now are lasting a long long time on the street
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