So I've got the car ready for storage and I've come to a point that I'm wondering which route I should go?
I googled an searched but didn't see exactly what I was looking for answer-wise.
Normally I'd just remove the battery in my other cars for winter, will this cause any issues with the Viper or is that perfectly fine?
If I do go the battery tender route, which location would be best to attach it? Under the hood or directly to the battery in my trunk? If I install under the hood would I just leave the hood ajar?
Just feed the line up through the bottom of the engine bay ( just in front of the serpentine belt) and connect to the POS+ post and the NEG- to a header bolt , I have done it that way for years... That way the cord doesn't touch the paint or keep you from closing the hood.
Just feed the line up through the bottom of the engine bay ( just in front of the serpentine belt) and connect to the POS+ post and the NEG- to a header bolt , I have done it that way for years... That way the cord doesn't touch the paint or keep you from closing the hood.
I wouldnt disconnect the battery from the car, issues will appear after it's reconnected.
I connect the Battery Tender under the rear bumper near the battery outside the car.
I have had very good luck leaving the battery in the car and using a Battery Tender Junior. I prefer to connect the harness in the engine bay just like viperbob suggested and leave the harness there year round. The only difference is I don't use a header bolt for the ground, I use a stud up near the windshield for the ground.
I prefer to do it this way rather than unhook or remove the battery because you don't lose the drive cycle readiness for your ECM. Its a real pain in the ass for the people in states that have yearly emissions testing and have to get their OBD monitors to reset and show ready after unhooking the battery. If you want, pm me and I will send you a picture of the harness and its underhood connections.
I wouldnt disconnect the battery from the car, issues will appear after it's reconnected.
I connect the Battery Tender under the rear bumper near the battery outside the car.
^^^^^^ this. Spend 20 minutes up front and put the battery tenders accessory cables on the battery. Zip tie the cable to the battery box. Connect through the slot in the rear facia. Then 2 seconds on and off via the plug forever.
I connected my battery tender this fall via the cigarette lighter method.
The tender/charger showed full charge and was running on 2A float mode...
I was able to lock my doors with the remote and the car honked to confirm, I decided to just leave the car unlocked however before leaving the storage garage.
Fast forward a couple of months, I went over to check my front tire size to order some new ones, noticed the battery tender was showing full charge and on the 2A floating charge still... However I was not able to get my car to honk when using the remote to lock the doors or see the lights flash when locking/unlocking... Which leads me to believe the battery must have actually died...
I tried new batteries in the remote today just outside the garage door and had the same situation. I didn't have time to take the cover off the car the other day and try and start it though as both I and the owner of the garage were in a bit of a rush.
I'm guessing the battery died or is there something I'm missing here?
I just for the 1st time ever broke down and got a battery tender. I have a Gel Cell so had to get a tender/charger that had provisions for that. I found one at wal-mart it was 59.99. I also found the same charger/tender at the local flee market, NIB, paid $13.
I hooked it to the + under the hood and to the ground stud near the PCM. The cables exit the "gill" no problems with the hood closed, but I don have a pin-on race hood. Been on for two months, I went to start it...like I just parked it yesterday....perfect.
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