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Transmission removal

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Transmission removal
Old July 4th, 2012, 08:20 AM   #1
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Transmission removal

I am mid process in this right now and everything has gone relatively smoothly, however there is 1 bolt on the transmission to bell housing that I flat out cant remove. It is the top most bolt on the passenger side. I removed the wiper cowling and can get a ratchet on it with relative ease(from above), but just can't apply any tq due to its position and the tight confines. I have read the DIY on here, but no one ever mentioned how to remove this bolt. I can't even get at it from below as the tranny won't sag enough. I have loosened my engine mounts and it comes down further than when they were tight, but not nearly as much as with the stock mounts(I have woodhouse ones). Any suggestions or tricks I am missing here?

As soon as that bolt is out I can work on getting the damn thing out of the car.
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Old July 4th, 2012, 08:45 AM   #2
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3' of extensions and a swivel
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Old July 4th, 2012, 09:37 AM   #3
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Assuming you mean the DIY that I wrote, I too have Woodhouse mounts and no flex pipes on the exhaust. No problems getting to that bolt from below as described in my write up.
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Old July 4th, 2012, 09:40 AM   #4
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3' of extensions and a swivel
3' ???...more like 6' if you ask me. Sucks.
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Old July 4th, 2012, 09:43 AM   #5
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If you know where it is, sans the pic that I have in my write up, then only a wuss would complain.

Don't end up in a roadside ditch. Don't be a wuss.
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Old July 4th, 2012, 09:48 AM   #6
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3' ???...more like 6' if you ask me. Sucks.
Well, maybe 4ft.........................................
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Old July 4th, 2012, 08:22 PM   #7
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I was able to get it out from above. I bought a pivot head 3/8 ratchet and broke it loose literally 1 min after getting the socket on the bolt. I am not sure how difficult it is to remove using extensions from underneath, but with this ratchet removal is literally a couple minute ordeal. Will begin dropping it out tomorrow and I am sure it will fight me every step of the way.

Last edited by 1.8t; July 4th, 2012 at 10:19 PM.
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Old July 5th, 2012, 04:50 PM   #8
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And out



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Old July 6th, 2012, 12:37 AM   #9
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So the reason for doing this transmission swap was due to inability to shift at redline from second to third and third to fourth. I had no issues first to second. While it is out of the car, should I go on and replace the slave? Could it cause the issue I just described?

I figure I might as well replace anything that might be the culprit while the thing is apart. The car only has 10800 miles on it, so I just don't see how it could be the clutch or pressure plate. The clutch holds perfectly fine in all gears and if it were the PP I should have the same issue going from first to second.
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Old July 6th, 2012, 07:23 AM   #10
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Put a new slave in. My OE one leaked at ~17K.

Clutch kits are ~$200 ebay. And you can burn the clutch up backing out of the driveway. I would replace it.
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Old July 6th, 2012, 08:05 PM   #11
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^ Roger that. New slave and Luk clutch kit ordered. Old items already removed.
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Old July 6th, 2012, 10:13 PM   #12
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just did slave in my 00 black/silver @ 11k miles. made wrench to pull shifter jamb nut so i didn't have to drill out factory rivets in console, also top bolt on pass side used 3ft of extensions from the bottom on the lift with the last extension being a snap on swivel
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Old July 14th, 2012, 08:13 PM   #13
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So bit of an update on this thread. I have spent the past 2 hours trying to reinstall the mother fucking transmission and that bastard just won't have it. Is it typically pretty damn hard to reinstall? I have the transmission in to the point to where there is about a 1/2" gap between the bell housing and the tranny and that pile of shit just won't mate up no matter how much I fuck with it. I was thinking it could be a clutch misalignment, but I installed/uninstalled my alignment tool(came with luk clutch kit) a few times just prior to trying to install the transmission to make sure the alignment was good. I just can't seem to get the damn thing to slide into the pilot bearing or at least that is what I am assuming.
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Old July 14th, 2012, 08:52 PM   #14
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If I recall, the LUK alignment tool is crap and will never properly align the clutch. You need a good steel alignment tool. The best tool for the job is an old input shaft from an old transmission.

That 1/2" gap between the transmission and bell housing is because the clutch is not aligned. I had a steel alignment tool when I did mine and it was still off. I had to loosen the pressure plate twice to re-align before I got the transmission to go back in. Don't force it. When it is properly aligned it will go right in with no problems.
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Old July 14th, 2012, 09:14 PM   #15
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Fuck. I figured as much. Nothing like pulling all that shit back off.
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Old July 15th, 2012, 02:29 AM   #16
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I always apply just a bit of upward pressure on the alignment tools as I bolt down the pressure plate...seems to prevent disk from hanging slightly low. Eyeball it too.
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Old July 15th, 2012, 05:20 PM   #17
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I always apply just a bit of upward pressure on the alignment tools as I bolt down the pressure plate...seems to prevent disk from hanging slightly low. Eyeball it too.
^^^^^^^^This and it helps to have two guys pushing in and rocking at the same time. The reason it is not going in is because the tip is hanging on the pilot bearing. Usually a little rocking and pushing will get it to seat in place.

Oh, and be careful, I have seen a new slave break from excessive rocking.
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Old July 15th, 2012, 07:28 PM   #18
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Got it back in. The clutch wasn't aligned as straight as it should have been. Transmission is completely installed. Only thing left to do is bleed the slave and button everything back up. Ended up putting some KW Variant 2's on the car while it was apart. Hopefully with all this work it drives like a new car once she is back on the road. *fingers crossed*
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Old July 16th, 2012, 09:36 PM   #19
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Another damn problem. I cranked the car up tonight to check everything, and the car won't go into gear. When you start to push the car into gear, the rear axels start to turn which tells me the clutch isn't disengaging. I have bled almost a bottle of DOT 4 brake fluid through the damn thing, so I don't understand how there could still be air in it. I still have the flywheel "access shield" off and there is no fluid leaking into the bell housing. This issue has to be slave related correct? It is a brand new slave, as wel as clutch and pressure plate. Other than bleeding it more, I am at a complete loss of what to do and frustration doesn't even begin to describe what I am feeling right now.
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Old July 16th, 2012, 10:05 PM   #20
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Just put the car in first and cranked it up and the clutch absolutely is not disengaging. I bled the slave some more with the push peddle and hold, release bleed valve, tighten bleed valve, and then release peddle technique. I am getting 100% clear fluid from the slave when bleeding and I am getting a good amount as well. 4 rounds of the procedure mentioned above will almost drain the reservoir. Again, this is a brand new slave from Roe Racing. Is my only course of action to pull the tranny back out and see wtf is going on?
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