I have had a problem with my car starting since i got it.
It never starts on the first or second try its usually third or fourth,
I have replaced the battery and reset the WOT sensor. I have also ran some injector cleaner threw the engine after all of this is still wont start easily.
It's a pretty common problem to have a bad check-valve in the fuel line. I think this part is actually in the tank. When it goes bad it allows all of the fuel to drain out of the supply line and fuel rails and go back into the tank. I think someone over on viperclub.org made an external replacement part that would fix this.
My '96 RT/10 had the same issue. You can do as you are doing and it will generally start on the second or third try. Or, what I began doing is, you can turn the key forward to the first stop. You should hear the fuel pump prime. This will fill the fuel lines and pressurize the system. Then turn the key back and start as normal. I never had a problem starting the car following that procedure.
What would cause this?
Just cause its older or could it be cause the car sat and didnt get much use?
how hard and how much would it cost to replace the part?
i just tried what you said and it still takes a couple tries. this isnt a problem for me i just dont like it when im out somewhere and try to start it and it wont start. people are already starring becuase your in a viper. then when it doesnt start right away its kinda embarassing
Check valve is in the pump...you can replace the whole pump (major surgery and $) or you can just put an external, inline valve kit on (cheap and easy).
Before you do this, check all the common problems including ICV.. idle control valve..it's on the d/s under the throttle body. You can put a new one on or just clean the old one internally...don't lose the "o" ring. takes about 10 minutes and may be the problem. Also, did you synch your throttle cables yet??..
Check valve is in the pump...you can replace the whole pump (major surgery and $) or you can just put an external, inline valve kit on (cheap and easy).
Before you do this, check all the common problems including ICV.. idle control valve..it's on the d/s under the throttle body. You can put a new one on or just clean the old one internally...don't lose the "o" ring. takes about 10 minutes and may be the problem. Also, did you synch your throttle cables yet??..
I will try that.
Yes i have synched my lines. one was opening a considerable amount before the other.
The check valve is good information. However, I would recommend checking to see if the car has fuel in the lines next time you go out in the garage to fire it up.
What I mean is....
Before starting the car, open the hood and grab a rag and a small flat head screwdriver. Walk over to the passenger side and on top of your motor, you sill see a little silver cap (I pasted a picture below and circled it in blue). Unscrew the cap and take your car key or a small screwdriver and push in on the little valve to see if fuel squirts out. If fuel squirts out with alot of pressure (trust me, you will know that there is alot of pressure, that's why you should kinda hold the rag over it before pushing on the valve), then you will have plenty of fuel for starting your car. If it just burps out a little fuel and dies out, then it is a problem with retaining fuel in the lines, so the check valve theory may be the solution.
__________________
94' RT/10
12.1 @ 115 (1.87 60ft) on worn Pilots, cone filters and Dynomax w/no cats-406HP/475TQ
The check valve is good information. However, I would recommend checking to see if the car has fuel in the lines next time you go out in the garage to fire it up.
What I mean is....
Before starting the car, open the hood and grab a rag and a small flat head screwdriver. Walk over to the passenger side and on top of your motor, you sill see a little silver cap (I pasted a picture below and circled it in blue). Unscrew the cap and take your car key or a small screwdriver and push in on the little valve to see if fuel squirts out. If fuel squirts out with alot of pressure (trust me, you will know that there is alot of pressure, that's why you should kinda hold the rag over it before pushing on the valve), then you will have plenty of fuel for starting your car. If it just burps out a little fuel and dies out, then it is a problem with retaining fuel in the lines, so the check valve theory may be the solution.
I actually got this idea before i read your post, But i did this and nothing came out. barley even a air sound.
how much would a inline valve be? and how much would it cost?
Also, where is the Idle control valve located? i could not find it.
I actually got this idea before i read your post, But i did this and nothing came out. barley even a air sound.
If thats the case.... not to sidetrack anymore, but I wonder if your fuel pump is priming? Pay close attention and listen for it to prime when you turn the key a few clicks. If your fuel pump is not even priming, then it may be something as simple as the fuel pump relay, located ni the trunk, or one of the other relays. I don't know the answer to your other questions, sorry. Just trying to throw out a few more ideas for debugging the issue.
Last edited by -FROG- : July 26th, 2008 at 01:43 AM.
If thats the case.... not to sidetrack anymore, but I winder if your fuel pump is priming? Pay close attention and listen for it to prime when you turn the key a few clicks. If your fuel pump is not even priming, then it may be something as simple as the fuel pump relay, located ni the trunk, or one of the other relays. I don't know the answer to your other questions, sorry. Just trying to throw out a few more ideas for debugging the issue.
Sorry i think we misunder stood alittle.
i did the thing with the screw driver BEFORE turning the key to prime the system.
should i try it after i turn the kep but before i start it?
the fuel pump is working fine to my knoledge.
No you are correct. I meant to check the gas before starting. That would prove that there is enough gas in the lines to start the car. Typically, you can go out to the car at any given moment, even if the car has been sitting for a while, and there will be pressure in that line, causing gas to squirt out everywhere when pushed in.
Since no gas came out on yours, it can be a few things. It can be the "Check Valve", what Matt mentioned.....
OR
It may possibly be another problem. We have confirmed that there is no gas in the line, by checking the valve on the motor. I was just trying to rule out that it was a problem with your ignition switch, or a spark issue, but it's definitely a fuel issue.
If you check the gas valve AFTER you turn the key, and there is no gas, then it's possible your fuel pump is not working because with a simple turn of your key, the pump should prime like crazy and create massive pressure in the line.
Do you hear the fuel pump prime if you turn the key forward (but not all the way to cranking)? You should hear a light buzz for a few seconds. If not, as FROG mentioned, your problem is likely your fuel pump or relay.
If it does prime, it would seem to indicate your relay is okay. To really test the fuel pump you should attach a fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve where you tried the pressure test for fuel. See what your pressure is during priming as well as when the engine is running.
Do you hear the fuel pump prime if you turn the key forward (but not all the way to cranking)? You should hear a light buzz for a few seconds. If not, as FROG mentioned, your problem is likely your fuel pump or relay.
If it does prime, it would seem to indicate your relay is okay. To really test the fuel pump you should attach a fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve where you tried the pressure test for fuel. See what your pressure is during priming as well as when the engine is running.
You could get in touch with him and see if he's still making them.
Fuel pump is priming it just takes a few tries to get the fuel up there, this sounds like a common problem so i think i will just deal with it, and do the priming thing a few times before i start it
Linear Mode
