Just ordered the Viper Eibach springs, and have questions. I have been reading lowered Vipers, and nobody talks about camber plates. Is it necessary to correct the camber too, so that the inner side on the front wheels wont ballout?
And is the alignment necessary after the lowering? I did it on my Mustang just to be safe, but the mecahnic said the aligment is good. Did you guys check the alignment?
Just ordered the Viper Eibach springs, and have questions. I have been reading lowered Vipers, and nobody talks about camber plates. Is it necessary to correct the camber too, so that the inner side on the front wheels wont ballout?
And is the alignment necessary after the lowering? I did it on my Mustang just to be safe, but the mecahnic said the aligment is good. Did you guys check the alignment?
No body talks about camber plates cause there's no such thing. It would be a very good idea to get your alignment checked after installing lowering springs, especially toe.
If you're seriously into racing Vipers, then you DO talk about camber plates.
To answer the original question, you probably can get by with just a toe-in adjustment *IF* the alignment was in good shape before the spring kit went in. You will be adding negative camber by lowering the car, and up to 1 degree or a little better is not a bad thing. DO NOT skip the ballast & torque procedure outlined in the service manual. If you get the bushing preload fouled up, the car will not behave well.
If you're seriously into racing Vipers, then you DO talk about camber plates.
To answer the original question, you probably can get by with just a toe-in adjustment *IF* the alignment was in good shape before the spring kit went in. You will be adding negative camber by lowering the car, and up to 1 degree or a little better is not a bad thing. DO NOT skip the ballast & torque procedure outlined in the service manual. If you get the bushing preload fouled up, the car will not behave well.
If you're seriously into racing Vipers then you would already know the answer..
A lowering kit gives you what?..3/4"-1" max?.. should fall in nicely with the -camber.. Agreed, some toe-in my be required to stabilize the front.
If you want to just get the alignment back, then find a shop with one of those laser hunter machines and a good tech. I think my car had -2.0 to -2.5 degrees on the camber after lowering, and they got it right back to street specs no problem.
OK. I will have to check on the "ballast & torque procedure."
I know "toe in" is good for racing/cornering, but it is not good for street driving. The inner front tires will just ballout with even 1 to 2.5 degrees. My SaleenS351 have this setup where I can adjust the camber, and it just balledout my front tires.
I will have the mechcanic do the camber correction like "GTS Steveo" back to 0 degrees as possible. My mechanic said 0-0.5 degrees is the limits for teo-in.
No one likes to talk about alignment but I will. Some will volunteer their crazy not suitable for the street road race alignnents. With springs out adjust shocks stiffer. Not full stiff. Front stiffer than rear. Eibach will throw off the alignment due to lowering big time . Drive for a while to let it settle in. This is a simple agressive street alignment. Not agressive enough for serious road course but will be like night and day copared to stock. Will not chew up tires.I used stock caster. Went Zerro toe front and very slight toe in rear. 3/4 deg neg camber front and 1/2 deg neg camber rear. Run 29 psi all around cold street. Going to a track go 31 front and 29 rear psi cold. GTS Bruce
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