Guys,
I used to have some fierce wheel hop and was tearing motor mounts out all the time. I'm a bit hard on my car. Anyway, I made a solid motor mount for the pass side (an aluminum block), poly motor mount on drivers side, and made this mid motor plate. Trans support is also a solid block of aluminum
The mid mount is a 1/8 hardened steel plate, cut to fit the bottom half of the trans, with 1" poly bushings where it bolts to the tabs welded to the frame. Took about an hour to make. I would think you could bolt it to the frame too, if you didn't want to weld on it.
Sorry about the bad paint job, I sprayed it with brake cleaner and it melted the paint. Needs a paint re-do.
Not a bit of wheel hop ever now, no matter what I do! I really don't notice an increase in vibration at all, and the car seems a lot crisper on the gas.
Guys,
I used to have some fierce wheel hop and was tearing motor mounts out all the time. I'm a bit hard on my car. Anyway, I made a solid motor mount for the pass side (an aluminum block), poly motor mount on drivers side, and made this mid motor plate. Trans support is also a solid block of aluminum
The mid mount is a 1/8 hardened steel plate, cut to fit the bottom half of the trans, with 1" poly bushings where it bolts to the tabs welded to the frame. Took about an hour to make. I would think you could bolt it to the frame too, if you didn't want to weld on it.
Sorry about the bad paint job, I sprayed it with brake cleaner and it melted the paint. Needs a paint re-do.
Not a bit of wheel hop ever now, no matter what I do! I really don't notice an increase in vibration at all, and the car seems a lot crisper on the gas.
CPE solidmounts the engines in many, if not all cars now. I have been in several and could hardly notice any increase in vibration. I would also concur with your other observations. Throttle response is crisper and there is no wheel hop (although I have driven regular Vipers with no wheel hop as well).
i was hearing that from solid mounting it makes the cylinmders oval shapped wear they bolt to the block any truth to this? i have polymounts and the work fine the first set i had was defective because i tore it in 2 in 30 miles but the replacment is working fine with 930rwhp and 1065rwtq and it hits like a brick because of a 325-350 nitrous shot.
Guys,
I used to have some fierce wheel hop and was tearing motor mounts out all the time. I'm a bit hard on my car. Anyway, I made a solid motor mount for the pass side (an aluminum block), poly motor mount on drivers side, and made this mid motor plate. Trans support is also a solid block of aluminum
The mid mount is a 1/8 hardened steel plate, cut to fit the bottom half of the trans, with 1" poly bushings where it bolts to the tabs welded to the frame. Took about an hour to make. I would think you could bolt it to the frame too, if you didn't want to weld on it.
Sorry about the bad paint job, I sprayed it with brake cleaner and it melted the paint. Needs a paint re-do.
Not a bit of wheel hop ever now, no matter what I do! I really don't notice an increase in vibration at all, and the car seems a lot crisper on the gas.
Glad it's working for you dave, but I don't quite get the connection..
Anyone care to explain how the engine/trans moving around maybe less than an inch causes wheel hop in a car with IRS?
It creates a minute but self sustaining backlash in the driveline. Anything you can do to make anything that moves stiffer (poly bushings in suspension/diff mounts) or in this case, the engine/trans mounts reduces/eliminates the windup/snapback that wheelhop needs to exists.
I don't think I have ever had any wheel hop in my Gen I.
Thats is surprising......I had bad wheel hop in my 95 viper along with a few other friends in theirs. One even had it so bad he was twisting up the beefier half shafts.......
I would be really nervous about the solid mounts and the poly ones being used together. You will break the bell housing eventually.
Well, that is my concern. I have a solid motor mount on the pass side, a poly on the driver side. The mid mount is attached to the frame via a bolt through stiff poly bushings mounted in the plate (you can't see them in the pic), so it has a little flex/give. I do have a concern that it adds a load to the bell housing. It is spread out over several bolts, including 2 big ones, however. I will probably go solid on the drivers side when I get a chance.
However, mounting a mid plate like this is a common thing to do in drag racing cars- summit racing sells all kinds of kits, but none for our cars.
I decided to make the mid plate due to the not well documented fear that solid mounting supposedly ovals the cylinders like GAGEDADY pointed out. I figured a secondary mount like this will take a lot of load off of the cylinder walls and move it to the block through the bell housing, where it is beefy.
Will keep you posted. It's nice to be able to nail the car and not have to worry about pedaling it due to wheel hop. I had tried everything, springs, shocks w/adjustable damping, different tires, tire pressure, etc... and could not fully eliminate it until now.
i was hearing that from solid mounting it makes the cylinders oval shapped wear they bolt to the block any truth to this?.
Anything's possible of course.. but is that as much a factor on an engine that uses sleeves? I'm not doubting the concern for caution, just wonder if it's really warranted for a Viper, or at all.
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