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Old June 12th, 2008, 12:27 PM   #21
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Sorry for being late to the thread... Have a good look at the crank sensor wiring while you're under the car. It's been known to get burned by the manifold and cause problems. It's on the right (passenger) side of the engine, about in the middle of the block, behind the exhaust elbow.
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Old June 13th, 2008, 07:40 AM   #22
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That's what I'm hoping. I'll let you know. It has a polished intake on it so I just assumed that that they did the intake gasket when they polished it. I thought that might have been the problem from the start. My buddy had a 300C that was doing the same thing. But I guess I was in denial. The local Chrysler shop here doesn't know vipers too well so that doesn't help either. I never had any problems with my other viper so they never saw it. The other guy in town does his own maintance his vipers. It's a small town 5500 people.

Crossing my fingers. I'll let yah know when I get to take it for a RIP!
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Old June 13th, 2008, 08:53 AM   #23
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Quote:
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Sorry for being late to the thread... Have a good look at the crank sensor wiring while you're under the car. It's been known to get burned by the manifold and cause problems. It's on the right (passenger) side of the engine, about in the middle of the block, behind the exhaust elbow.
I too was beginning to suspect the crank sensor. Car runs like hell when it gets messed up.
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Old June 13th, 2008, 03:21 PM   #24
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Well the vacuum leak is fixed but the fuel pump is shot. Any one know if there is an after market one? Dealer tells me 1700 for a new one.
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Old June 13th, 2008, 04:41 PM   #25
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You might want to talk to RSI. They have a three pump in tank upgrade which would probably be half the cost of the dealer.
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Old June 13th, 2008, 05:00 PM   #26
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Well the vacuum leak is fixed but the fuel pump is shot. Any one know if there is an after market one? Dealer tells me 1700 for a new one.
Wait a second... why are you saying it's shot? Does it not work at all? I too thought my fuel pump was gone and that is when it turned out my PCM was bad.

About the fuel pump.... yea, it's expensive for the entire fuel pump assembly, however if it's just the pump itself, that can be replaced individually. I know there are a few people on here with new, individual pumps that you can pick up for 100 - 200 bucks.

What were the details of why your pump is now bad? What's up?
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Old June 16th, 2008, 07:47 AM   #27
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Sorry guys kinda started a new thread about the fuel pump. Just to excited at the time to wait for advise. The fuel pump doesn't build the reqired pressure and then bleeds down rapidly after the car turns off. God I hope this is the problem.
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Old June 25th, 2008, 01:31 AM   #28
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Well the new fuel pump is going in tommorow. So I'll let you guys know what that does for the car. X-sing my fingers. That should be the end of this thread I'm hoping. I got the complete drop in. Comes with the fuel pressure reg also.
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Old June 25th, 2008, 04:08 AM   #29
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.... I got the complete drop in. Comes with the fuel pressure reg also.
Cool. Hope it works out.
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Old June 27th, 2008, 08:34 PM   #30
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Well I guess this is the END of this thread. The VIPER is back. She is running 100%. The intake gasket and fuel pump did the trick. She smokes the tires now. Thanx guys for all your help. And hopefully this will help anyone who has the same problems get there viper back on the road. Now it might be time for a ROE s/c!!!!!!!!
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Old July 1st, 2008, 10:44 PM   #31
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Well I guess it's not the end of the thread. The problem is back. Again at 4000 rpm mark. HELP!
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Old July 2nd, 2008, 02:12 PM   #32
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So the fuel pump didn't help at all... When I had mine out, I took it over to my battery charger and hooked it straight up to the charger to kinda "bump" it and see if it was working. Man, it came on with FURY so I KNEW the pump was ok. I did it a few times to make sure but didn't want to run it too much because it needs fuel to lubricate and stay cool. I went ahead and installed the newer one in since it had less miles but I checked it with my battery charger as well.

nonetheless... you pretty much checked everything I would, except these things still come to mind. Did you check those relays? I don't really think they are the problem, but somewhat of an easy check. Also I would consider the ECU, PCM and possibly the crankshaft positioning sensor. The CPS usually takes effect IMMEDIATELY when the car starts as it calculates the VERY FIRST rotation of the crank shaft when turning the key. Those calculations effect spark and fuel, then the car runs happily on it's own. I think the CPS is mostly for startup purposes and should not effect the higher RPM range, so it still makes me want to look at the ECU or the PCM. Since the CPS may be a cheaper fix, it may be good to go ahead and place that higher up on the priority list.
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Old July 10th, 2008, 02:26 PM   #33
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Well it was the MAP sensor bad connection in the harness. There was also a small leak in a vac line in the cross over.
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Old July 10th, 2008, 09:42 PM   #34
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Good Find!!!!!!!!!!
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Old July 11th, 2008, 10:23 AM   #35
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Thanks guys again for all the help! I wouldn't have known where to start.
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Old July 25th, 2008, 12:01 AM   #36
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Well I have about 2000kms on the car now it runs really strong 98% off the time. When it doesn't I just unplug the map sensor and plug it back in. Then the cars fine for three or four days. So I was thinking to add some dielectric grease to the connection does anybody know if that will hurt. I have done the same thing with other sensors when getting a weak signal and it seems to work. Any suggestions or comments?
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Old July 25th, 2008, 01:25 AM   #37
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Old July 25th, 2008, 08:06 PM   #38
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Well I have about 2000kms on the car now it runs really strong 98% off the time. When it doesn't I just unplug the map sensor and plug it back in. Then the cars fine for three or four days. So I was thinking to add some dielectric grease to the connection does anybody know if that will hurt. I have done the same thing with other sensors when getting a weak signal and it seems to work. Any suggestions or comments?
hmmm, thats weird. I don't see how the connector would be at fault. It's almost like you are resetting something. However, I don't think the MAP sensor will reset anything just by unplugging it. Weird situation... I don't think the grease would hurt. Just try and apply small amounts on each pin, and not just glob it all on there, which may cause a short or some kind of interference.

Just a thought... but you can reset your ECU/PCM by unbolting that battery terminal cable on the side, of the engine bay. Just unbolt it and pull the big red wires off the terminal stud for a second or two. See if this also allows your car to start. If it does help, (like unplugging your MAP sensor), then this will prove the problem lies elsewhere and not just with the MAP sensor. It may be the signals associated with the MAP sensor that are being reset, which may mean a flakey PCM or ECU.
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Old July 30th, 2008, 12:51 AM   #39
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Well thanks guys the dielectic grease has solved the problem with the map sensor. It's ran like a charm. I even pushed it a little to see if I could get to screw up. No way. Thanks agin for all the help. I love the alley. No way am I ever gonna go off what a Chrysler tech tells me again. Hope this thread helps some others with similar problems.

Oh and apply grease very lightly! I'm doing all the sensors.
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