Tru-Tracs are good for 750rwhp. I have done many on the Gen 1-2. I use the Quaife for power levels above that. There is tunable posi available now up to 1200hp that is another option.
DC Performance Inc.
310-841-6996
How much is the TruTrack with 3.33 gears for a Gen3?
I know there are 3.42 gears out there but I had heard they were not as strong and made for lesser HP cars. Any thoughts?
Received the unit back today. The total including shipping back to me and a new 3.07 R&P installed, strap hit and 4 quarts of syn oil so I can change it later was $1832.38. The packaging was terrific with everything labeled perfectly. I just unwrapped it all, going to fill rear and install in a few hours. I will say this, if thier installation is anything like their EXCELLENT PROFESSIONAL packaging, I will be thrilled. The unit is painted, cleaned, has a nice metal Unitrax tag on it and anyhow I am a picky a@@ guy and for me this sure looks professional all the way. I will report after I install it later and start to easily put the miles on it as the directions tell me to. Gary
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Now that the prices of virtually everything are going up and up and now that thousands of people are losing their jobs everyday as the US goverment still hands out 10,000+ checks to those people just getting off the boat, I think I will take a boat ride and get in line, I sure could use the money to pay for the gas in my Viper and GTO!
I got the same reply form Devon, "you should get new gears". Oh well, another $200 I didn't want to spend, but rather be safe than broke again
They charged me $300 for a new Spicer Super 44 3.07 7/16" Ring and Pinion. Seems a bit expensive unless I am missing something here, but overall price still seems very reasonable.
I was too cheap to get new gears and went wth "low mileage" takeouts. I am a bit worried about Dan Cragin's remarks. I hope this setup lasts for more than a couple fo runs.
Last edited by 99 RT/10 : May 13th, 2008 at 10:45 PM.
LOL you and me both. I told him I might run NOS very soon on top of my Roe, port the heads and such so I want it to be able to hanbdle 1000 RWHP, so anyhow Devin knows and assured me it would be fine. He literally said he NEVER saw one come back yet, so let's see. I got it under the car, had a bitch of a time getting it between the frame rails (it was a BITCH getting out that way too!) and ended up bench pressing it into place. I will finish it tomorrow as today I was tired and depressed about some shit with my business. Tomorrow will prove to be a better day, so the Viper will be on the road again-yeah!
Tru-Tracs are good for 750rwhp. I have done many on the Gen 1-2. I use the Quaife for power levels above that. There is tunable posi available now up to 1200hp that is another option.
DC Performance Inc.
310-841-6996
Dan, can you please post where you pot your information that they are only good for 750 RWHP? I will send a PM for you to post here as I would like full disclosure for our members, including me. I'd like to know if you had them break, any personal experience that you can share that is negative to support it incuding who did the installation would be appreciated. TY in advance, Gary
I did call Dan from DC as well as Devin from Unitrax. Devin called bullshit (my words, not his) on this and Dan recanted that he had no evidence that there is a 750 RWHP limit and will amend his post. Both also indicated they never saw a failure in a Truetrac. Dan further went on to say he thinks the Quaife is stronger and the 750 RWPH imit is just his number and has no basis for that number at all.
Rear is in, I did a 25 minute easy drive and let it cool for 2 hours. I then drove it another 25 minute drive and let it cool overnight, but no noise and anxious to start using it next week after I put a few hundred easy miles to break in the R&P gears and center section. If you guys are pulling the rear out, take the safety hoops off if you have them installed, but the halfshafts you can leave in. Just make sure the hoops do not hit the black rear brake line towards the front of the car which is easy to do if you are installing on your garage floor like I did. I BREAT THE SNOT out of my car, so I will update after the beating begins in a few weeks, but thus far Unitrax truetrac scores with me on service and overall price hands down and I am a picky bitch.
Running some decent HP, maybe 700ish at the wheels and might go higher as my street beater. My rear seems to be acting up with 35K miles on it but certainly still drivable. I will jack up to be sure that is the cause, but I am 98%+ certain it is and I already tried adding more friction modifier but noise on turns tells me my center section is having better days-lol. That said, I see there is the Quaife and the Truetrac option. The Truetrac is $1,000 and the Quaife is $1600, but I was told by a vendor that neither one breaks, but Quaife gives you a lifetime warranty verses a 1 year Truetrac warranty. I want to keep my stock rear ratio too and a stocker has done me well, but I am going to keep adding addl power, but since this is my driver car I will keep it below 1000 HP as I do not want to do the motor all over. Anyhow please give thoughts on rear only if you have experience and I really want to hear from the Truerac guys as there are plenty of folks that will vouch for Quaife
Thanks to Mike 99 RT/10 too for offering to loan me a rear on the public forum. Although I did immediately PM him a big thank you, this is a gesture that gives me a little more faith in mankind and my thank you is public too It is another good Alley real world experience I have seen many times of an offer of assistance.
I have a used True Trac sitting in my garage, is anyone interested?
UPDATE and sorry this is going to be a bit long folks, but informative as possible in the interest of the Alleyites.
I purchased the true Trac from Unitrax and it was delivered as promised after I pulled out my old rear, emptied the old fluid out and sent it away. Upon receipt, they and installed the rear myself on my garage floor as I posted above. I was doing the break in where you drove it for approx. 15 miles or whatever it was, let it sit for hours, then came home for the same distance and let it sit overnight. Next day I took it out for more break in, never using full throttle and anyhow within a few days I had a few hundred miles on it. I was about 75 miles from my house when i took a right hand turn and heard a noise in the back, like a clunk in a low speed parking lot turn. I then began hearing noise in the rear, and it REALLY sounded like my rear, not tunnel traveling noise from the transmission. I was thinking "nooooo" as I was like 75 miles from my house. I slowly took it home and told my girl who was in the car that we might not make it home. When getting on or off the throttle, there was a clunking sound like it was a bad U-Joint or the backlash was off, or maybe even the clutches were not grabbing. I limped it home and parked it, and it being late at night, I had to wait to call Unitrax.
upon calling Unitrax, I originally conversed with Devon who later gave the phone to his dad. By the time I called Unitrax, I already had the car up in the air on jack stands as I checked all the torque of the bolts, and especially the strap kits and mounts. I own a ½ Snap-On torque-Wrench and I did use it, and I used it again. My 3/8 torque wrench could not get on the straps, so I torque them by hand, but this is not the first rear I ever installed on a car by far, so not a big deal. I can come pretty same close with torque specs by hand, but anyhow trying to give full disclosure for the Alley. So I was asked all the normal questions I would have asked, are you sure it isn’t noise travel, did you check bolts, is it the bushing, frame weld broken, et cetera. I really checked the hell out of it and I did notice when you grabbed the front of the differential yoke and turned it back and forth, there was a clunking sound which I felt was louder than it should be. I tried to magnify the noise to that of the differential being under load and it replicated the noise I heard-at least in my mind. He said that if it was bad, he would take care of it, pay for shipping both ways and labor too. He wanted me to check and recheck over the next week, he talked to his tech guys, et cetera. Bottom line, I pulled the rear, packed it up and shipped it on their UPS account.
Upon receipt, Unitrax said there was nothing visibly wrong, it had to be elsewhere on the car. I should check the mounting points and such. Of course I checked everything again and they spun the rear with some drill assembly they bad and could get no noise or the like out of the rear. Bottom line it they were really concerned and wanted to fix something, but could see nothing to fix. The differential fluid incidentally I purchased from them, I forget what type it was, but some exotic stuff with no MOPAR friction modifier per Unitrax. With great regret Jerry, who was very nice said he was sending the rear back but felt bad they could see nothing, his fear was it was going from CA to NJ and the last thing he wanted was for me to call and complain about the noise again. Jerry asked for my UPS account for return shipping (remember, Jerry said if there was a problem, he would take care of the shipping both ways and the labor to R&R it) and I felt a bit weird about it, but I gave it to him. I felt weird about giving it to him as even I was second guessing myself, but I always want to be fait in all business and personal transactions and felt like I would owe them if I was wrong and why not? So I then waited for my rear as they had it for about 2 weeks I would say and anyhow I was a bit depressed over it.
The rear arrived, again all professionally packed and labeled up. Truly they do a nice job with this end of the business, so I installed it all same as before. Took the car off my jack stands and drove it. All noise was gone. As requested, I reported back to Jerry at Unitrax after I put 50 miles on it that day and told him all was perfect. He was relived it was all good now, but also a bit baffled. I told him whatever they did made it good, and I speculated that the carrier was maybe locking up or the like. Well, whatever it was the car has 700+miles on the rear since they gave it back and it is all good, so about 1000 miles total on it since Unitrax had it. The rear hooks well under full throttle, but then again so did my stock rear frankly even with drag radials on it. I do feel a bit like they should pay for the return shipping to me and the labor as offered, but after talking with Jerry at Unitrax it seems like they are under the impression that it was not the rear and I didn’t press the issue of bringing bit back on their doorstep. I have their half shafts (the 1000+ HP ones), and safety loops too that I purchased direct from them, and was happy with their products and service. Anyhow would I buy a Unitrax for $1500 or a Quaife for $2500-$3,000 personally I am not sure even now sadly. I tried to be as unbiased as possible in helping our community make a decision and for the record Unitrax was always polite, returned calls and I felt secure at all times they would remedy a problem should the rear break.
Gary, I am trying to understand this. Are you saying that because they didn't pay the return shipping after finding no issues you may have decided to pay double for the quaife if having to do it all over again?
Yes Josh, I might have got the Quaife even now as I feel like it is proven and frankly whatever it was was in fact in the rear. It was not worth the headache of being down, but frankly it could have been an isntallation problem or a unit problem, but it is moot because it WAS a problem.
Or do you think they found an issue, and didn't want to pay shipping and RnR time?
Honestly I am not sure if they found an issue. I am a recoverying addict with 14+ years clean thanks to Gamblers Anonymous, and only a very few folks know this, but frankly I am saying this for a reason. I am a VERY good people reader and my intuition says they might have found something, but I do not think they would have hid it for that, but just my feeling. I will be as direct as possible on all questions, as for our benefit I want unbiased answers to this new product. Gary
Mine is making a popping, clunking noise when I am backing up and turning or when I am pulling out and turning. It only does this when I am turning.. Is my problem the rearend?
So are Unitrax/TrueTrac and QUaife the only options? Can you not buy a bolt in application or is everything a modified stocker? Is Mark Williams making parts for teh stock rearend too?
thanks, just trying to learn a bit more.
Mine is making a popping, clunking noise when I am backing up and turning or when I am pulling out and turning. It only does this when I am turning.. Is my problem the rearend?
So are Unitrax/TrueTrac and QUaife the only options? Can you not buy a bolt in application or is everything a modified stocker? Is Mark Williams making parts for teh stock rearend too?
thanks, just trying to learn a bit more.
Mine does the same thing and it always has. Not sure its normal but I know it has never impeded the cars performance otherwise. Like you said, only in reverse while cutting the wheel hard. Like a rubbing or binding type noise.
I am a bit worried about Dan Cragin's remarks. I hope this setup lasts for more than a couple fo runs.
