I changed fluid a few days ago and used the following:
4874469 Mopar syn Diff Fluid, 2 qts
4318060AB 4 oz frict modifier
Before the fluid was changed, the rear worked 100%. After running at Atco Raceway today, only two days and 50 miles later, I have a problem. I am in the option it is the fluid. The problem is on turns now the rear is starting to lock like the posi is not working correctly. I jacked up the rear at the track thinking it was the rear, my Unitrax half shafts or the like, but I don't think so. I drove 20 miles home and it ran good, but on turns it is binding slightly, and anyhow can someone please confirm my fluid? I KNOW the wrong fluid can do this crap as I have seen it on other cars in my life and hope that is my problem. Anyhow, thanks in advance and if I need a rear, I will stick with a stock ratio, but my gut is saying I have the wrong fluid in there. Thanks, Gary
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Now that the prices of virtually everything are going up and up and now that thousands of people are losing their jobs everyday as the US goverment still hands out 10,000+ checks to those people just getting off the boat, I think I will take a boat ride and get in line, I sure could use the money to pay for the gas in my Viper and GTO!
Add another bottle of friction modifier. The new fluid has more "bite" than the old stuff did, and is making your clutches grabby around corners. We have a hell of a time getting this condition out of Jeep Grand Cherokee's that people service the diffs and transfer cases in.
I'm not counting the possibility of hurting the diff at the track. If another bottle of additive doesn't help then consider your diff doomed and begin shopping for another. Maybe a Quaife or a Unitrax replacement.
Would it cause a noise in a straight line? I heard it twice in a straight line, but on the turns it sucks and is obvious but I agree something is with the fluid I will add another bottle tomorrow and TY! Now onto my new clutch that was working overtime-lol. THANK YOU for advice and +rep and if it doesn't may Allah help me! Gary
Straight line noises from the rear of any kind are abnormal. If it's a snap or clunk then the damage may already be done. Skipping the tires or chattering/squealing around corners is about the worst (best) you can hope for. Anything else may be damaged spider gears.
Add another bottle of friction modifier. The new fluid has more "bite" than the old stuff did, and is making your clutches grabby around corners. We have a hell of a time getting this condition out of Jeep Grand Cherokee's that people service the diffs and transfer cases in.
I'm not counting the possibility of hurting the diff at the track. If another bottle of additive doesn't help then consider your diff doomed and begin shopping for another. Maybe a Quaife or a Unitrax replacement.
Gary, I agree 100% with the above advice.. Add more friction mod... Ive owned 3, V8 AWD Grand Cherokees. And every once in a while, they would "buck" under hard turn,low speed conditions.. When I took it in, the dealer just kept adding more friction mod..
Before you tear anything down, add more friction mod. (maybe even 1.5 bottles) and drive for about 30 miles...See what happens..
I just took out 7 ounces and added 4 oz of addl fluid. I will be 3 oz low, but so be it, I am not buying another can for missing 3 out of 50 oz :-) I will report after driving it later that it works or that I am going to neg rep all these believers in the additive :-) I am a poor guy, so I hope it is the cheapo option that this works. TY for all the advice guys! Gary
I am going to pull cover this weekened if I have time and check the gears, it was not the POSI unit in my case. Time to work on the 467 motor in my GTO for 30 min and pout her back on the road. I am still looking for a Ford GT too and have loot ready if the right deal comes along. I might consider a Lambo, but not a Lardo and mods are okay as long as it has twin hair dryers :-)
I am going to pull cover this weekened if I have time and check the gears, it was not the POSI unit in my case. Time to work on the 467 motor in my GTO for 30 min and pout her back on the road. I am still looking for a Ford GT too and have loot ready if the right deal comes along. I might consider a Lambo, but not a Lardo and mods are okay as long as it has twin hair dryers :-)
That's not a fun job. The exhaust is all over right where you need to be.
Well, here is the rear all apart. I had to do it today on my back <sigh> and of course I have safety hoops for the halfshafts, so that made it suck more-lol. The exhaust wasn't bad, my worst part was getting the top outer 21 mm bolts on the dif cover wings and then figuring out how to drop the diff itself! HOLY CRAP is that a tight squeeze! I left the half shafts bolted to the hubs, so that made it a little more of a bitch, but what a crappy job. I have air tools, but it is just a pain and anyhow I need a new center section now. The spider gears took a hit from Atco. Pics posted. Oh yes, my 10.8 pass at Atco was with the slipping clutch was with 36 PSI in the rear (DR Nittos) tires, I found out last week. So new diff, broken in clutch, low PSI in the rear tires (I deliberately ran what I run on the street just for the hell of it), a good tune and anyhow we get another 9 second Roe on the Alley.
This will not let me post pics, apparently VA will only let me have 2 MB TOTAL up and I am maxed. That seems like a REALLY crazy policy esp. for a site supporter?!?!?
This will not let me post pics, apparently VA will only let me have 2 MB TOTAL up and I am maxed. That seems like a REALLY crazy policy esp. for a site supporter?!?!?
Yea, you gotta delete the old pics from time to time to make room for the new. Also, maybe you can make the new pics a little smaller, if maybe they are pretty darn large. I'm curious to see those messed up spiders. Glad you figured out the problem though.
The exhaust is all over right where you need to be.
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