I have been told by some that Mobil One is not a good choice for a TT set up....I have used Castrol 20w-50w....no synthetic......and have had no issues....the first TT I had we ran Mobil One and I had some problems.
It seems the opinion about which oil to use, varies. As much as I drive my car, I would like to use the best...but also something that is readily available at most auto parts stores.
I have been told by some that Mobil One is not a good choice for a TT set up....I have used Castrol 20w-50w....no synthetic......and have had no issues....the first TT I had we ran Mobil One and I had some problems.
Do you remember what weight you had use with the Mobile 1? I was told in the higher HP application, use 15-50 and I haven't had any problems with it.
Whoa...$14 a quart. Maybe I will stick to the Advance brand
Every spec that can be measured with Motul shows it to be no better than Series 2000 Amsoil. I wouldn't run Royal Purple in anything. Royal Purple uses a Synerlec compound, which is, in effect a micropolishing compound that actually perpetuates the wear of micro-surface features. While this is great for making that extra little bit of power, I personally do not advocate Royal Purple's usage in street engines, as it really doesn't prevent wear as well as Pennzoil Platinum and Amsoil. Redline is a quality Class V (Polyol-Ester) lubricant that I have heard nothing but praise about and it has worked well in my limited experience with it. If you want to spend astronomical money (18 or so per quart), the results I have seen with xado atomic oil will seriously make you question everything you thought you knew about oil.
Every spec that can be measured with Motul shows it to be no better than Series 2000 Amsoil. I wouldn't run Royal Purple in anything. Royal Purple uses a Synerlec compound, which is, in effect a micropolishing compound that actually perpetuates the wear of micro-surface features. While this is great for making that extra little bit of power, I personally do not advocate Royal Purple's usage in street engines, as it really doesn't prevent wear as well as Pennzoil Platinum and Amsoil. Redline is a quality Class V (Polyol-Ester) lubricant that I have heard nothing but praise about and it has worked well in my limited experience with it. If you want to spend astronomical money (18 or so per quart), the results I have seen with xado atomic oil will seriously make you question everything you thought you knew about oil.
How do you feel ref. ProLong. We run it in the Dragster, also know of several TopFuel teams using ProLong.
How do you feel ref. ProLong. We run it in the Dragster, also know of several TopFuel teams using ProLong.
Any Chlorine or Teflon additive is no good in any engine that has to run for a very long time. They can do all sorts of things and even Dupont (who invented Teflon) says it should never be run in engines. They often can clog lifters and small oil passages. In addition, they often cause Hydrochloric acid to form in the oil because of the Chlorine. Combined with the fact that Teflon in solution cannot attach to metal and I would say its pretty much dangerous snake oil for a passenger car. It does great things in super high pressure tests (probably applicable to Top Fuel), but you can do the same thing with Pert Plus, which has Zinc in it- A high pressure lubricant. As this thread concerns street engines, I would highly advise against it as what is good for a race car and will make a little extra power is not good in a street engine if it causes wear. In Top Fuel, I don't think it matters what you use, high pressure is all that matters, so it may do some good. That Xado Atomic Oil would probably be even better, according to testing I have seen.
"At a recent trade show we were at one of these miracle oil additive companies was there with a machine that demonstrated how their additive reduced friction. It was a motor with rotating solid steel disc secured to the motor shaft and a torque meter with a flat piece of steel mounted on the torque arm. They put every type of oil on the market, one by one, on the machine & pressed hard on the torque meter and at about 20-40 lb-ft torque the torque arm would stall the motor....that is until they cleaned it off & tried their (chlorinated) additive "IXL" on the bearing & ran the test.
People were amazed as the meter peaked out at 140 lb-ft. torque and still didn't stall the motor. We knew what was happening but many unsuspecting consumers were eating it up and standing in line to buy the additive. The next day we showed up with some Head & Shoulders Shampoo disguised in an oil bottle & had the IXL additive people try it on their test machine. The operator was amazed as the motor just barely stalled at 140 lb-ft. The operator says that's pretty good stuff, what is it? We said Head & Shoulders. He was quite embarrassed to say the least. Head & Shoulders has high levels of high potency ZINC in it that attaches itself to ferrous metals. Coke soft drink will do exactly the same thing. ZINC reduces friction and provides anti-wear protection and is present in most motor oils at a much reduced level. Now, would you put Head & Shoulders in your engine?
Additionally, the test machine was measuring EXTREME PRESSURE. Motor oils do not have extreme pressure additives blended in like gear lubes do nor do they need extreme pressure additives. Their is absolutely no need for EP additives in a motor oil. A gear lube would not stall the motor as easily because gear lubes have high levels of Extreme Pressure additives blended in, but do you think they would test their IXL additive against gear lubes? Heck no! They use motor oil....They are comparing apples to oranges & tricking you into buying their additive. Same theory holds true for Slick50, Prolong, Dura Lube, Motor Up, Valvoline Engine Treatment and many others. Please DON'T be fooled by oil additives. They simply are not needed and can be detrimental to the proper function of a motor oil."
In reference to the magazine test posted above, it seems interesting, but almost every oil they tested, we don't get and film strength is one of MANY important tests that should be run. I do know that Amsoil has higher film strength than Royal Purple by a pretty wide margin. However, testing an oil using only that measurement is like testing a gun based on recoil. Sure it probably tells you something, but not that much.
Last edited by The Former PFR : April 13th, 2008 at 09:53 PM.
Teflon, if ground fine enough to not get caught in an oil filter, makes more power. A good example of it is Polydyn's TX-7. It's worth about 10 hp. I know a good number of people that run it in their drag race engines and their street engines. I've even had a few customers that ran it in circle track engines with no negative affect on bearings on teardown.
I wouldn't hesitate to run it.
One Teflon oil treatment that was useless was that first Teflon additive on the market way back when, Lubrilon. It was ground coarse, and would stay in the filter.
id ask tom F&L Geek on the morgue before buying any oil personally. that guy knows it all when it comes to oil and i do trust him.
i bet his answer is gonna be rotella T (diesel oil)
from my last question to him on this subject
Quote:
Synthetic oil is overrated. The additives make the performance difference - for example, the Valvoline and diesel oil have more antiwear additive. Diesel oil also has more detergent and dispersant. The high temperature protection is provided by additives instead of the base oil, so unless you are starting the car at -30C, I don't think you will ever see a benefit vs. a diesel oil or a Euro-car oil (one with ACEA performance specs.)
If you don't gag at the thought of diesel oil, that's the way to go and what I use. It's a mineral oil 15W40, so it's thick enough when hot and thin enough when cold. Lots of additives for cleanliness and wear protection - made for 80,000 mile drains rather than 5,000 miles. And it's not expensive, found at Walmart, comes in gallons. Any major brand is fine - Chevron Delo, Shell Rotella T, Mobil Delvac 1300. It has similar wear protection as the race oil, and lots of budget racers use it anyway.
If that's too much a stretch, then pick any oil that meets European car requirements - the ACEA specs. Mobil has a bunch in different viscosity grades, and all the majors will have one or two. Because there are lots of diesel passenger cars in Europe, these oils are also additive boosted, and many are synthetic.
unfortunately i didnt get a chance to use it...lol
