I just spent the last hour searching old posts on nitrous to see how a dry setup would work on my GTS. Didn't find shit. So how does it work? On my LS1 stuff the MAF will read the temperature drop and adjust fuel accordingly, obviously the Viper is different.
I have alot of nitrous stuff in my garage, most of it new. Bottle, brackets, N2O solenoid, lines, jets, nozzles, etc. I think I want like the FJO controller to handle window switch duties and what not. I'm only gonna spray a 100 shot (yeah yeah, I'm a pussy). I'd prefer to do it dry (did I just say that?).
Thanks!
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1997 GTS, red of course. Bought it so I wouldn't have to drive my Camaro in the rain.
I am always a proponent of a WELL DONE dry setup over wet when dealing with the long intake runners of a Viper. However, make sure you have any setup tuned on a dyno. As many dry systems boost the fuel line pressure, you may want to upgrade the injectors to some that are designed to spray properly at a higher pressure. I think a VEC II might also be able to control a dry system and increase pulse width instead of line pressure, but I am not sure.
Last edited by The Former PFR : February 22nd, 2008 at 07:00 PM.
I plan to have it professionally tuned after I install it. I've put nitrous on 3 or 4 of my cars, so I'm no stranger to it, but how does it work on the Viper as far as fueling for a dry kit? My LT1 car years ago boosted fuel pressure to compensate, is that what they do on Vipers? If so I'll just go wet, all I need is a new fuel solenoid and another nozzle. My plan is to install an A pillar dual gauge pod with fuel psi and N2O gauges, a WOT switch, and an FJO controller for window switch duties. Will I need to swap plugs for a 100 shot? I plan to install new plugs and wires anyway for maintenance. I already have a nice bottle heater too.
I plan to have it professionally tuned after I install it. I've put nitrous on 3 or 4 of my cars, so I'm no stranger to it, but how does it work on the Viper as far as fueling for a dry kit? My LT1 car years ago boosted fuel pressure to compensate, is that what they do on Vipers? If so I'll just go wet, all I need is a new fuel solenoid and another nozzle. My plan is to install an A pillar dual gauge pod with fuel psi and N2O gauges, a WOT switch, and an FJO controller for window switch duties. Will I need to swap plugs for a 100 shot? I plan to install new plugs and wires anyway for maintenance. I already have a nice bottle heater too.
Check out the VEC...I just really dislike wet kits plus long runners. Also, there is nothing wrong with boost fuel pressure if the injectors are designed for it. Plenty of injectors work over a range and may be just fine with an extra 1 BAR or whatever the controller does.
From Roe's VEC III info.
"For example, you can create a program which will turn on a Nitrous relay, increase the injector pulse and decrease the ignition advance all at the same time." That is the route I would take. Get some bigger injectors and go dry with engine management. Should be the safest bet other than direct port.
The LT1 and LS1's also had the benefit of a faster controller, mass air flow sensors and wideband o2 sensors for closed loop WOT fuel trims. When intake temps go down, stock pcm programming is to up the timing. Not what you want to happen with a load of nitrous. Unless it was a small shot, I wouldn't do it unless you don't mind fragging an engine.
The LT1 and LS1's also had the benefit of a faster controller, mass air flow sensors and wideband o2 sensors for closed loop WOT fuel trims. When intake temps go down, stock pcm programming is to up the timing. Not what you want to happen with a load of nitrous. Unless it was a small shot, I wouldn't do it unless you don't mind fragging an engine.
Using a intake temp sensor to modify fueling with nitrous is a terrible idea and the reason I think dry nitrous got a bad name in the first place. Modifying fueling with an intake air temp is like determining what you want to eat based on how many times you went to the bathroom that day. I couldn't agree with you more.
Last edited by The Former PFR : February 22nd, 2008 at 08:20 PM.
Hedberg's car is pretty well known. My friend, Fred, is friends with the owner of that car. It's fairly mild compared to a lot of the tuned Volvo's in Sweden, but they made a nice video, so it gets a lot of attention.
Isn't a VEC III like $1800 or something? I was gonna save that for when I go FI.
I don't know if it's that much. Why not just get an AEM and install it now. Use it for Nitrous for the time being and then when it's time to go FI, you are that far ahead.
A VECIII is about $1200 I guess. But I was trying to avoid aftermarket ECM stuff for now, mainly for cost reasons. I guess if I just go wet with a window switch it would all be more simple? But those are some long runners for a wet system. I guess others do it though.
A VECIII is about $1200 I guess. But I was trying to avoid aftermarket ECM stuff for now, mainly for cost reasons. I guess if I just go wet with a window switch it would all be more simple? But those are some long runners for a wet system. I guess others do it though.
my wet kit ran perfect. never had a problem and the car made power. i used the VEC2 as my window and rpm switch which makes it really easy and clean install.
i think the main reason the dry kits are not loved is if you have any kind of fuel hiccup, you're screwed a lot faster than if it was a wet kit. at least thats what i remember reading or hearing.
my wet kit ran perfect. never had a problem and the car made power. i used the VEC2 as my window and rpm switch which makes it really easy and clean install.
i think the main reason the dry kits are not loved is if you have any kind of fuel hiccup, you're screwed a lot faster than if it was a wet kit. at least thats what i remember reading or hearing.
and a used VEC can be found for 500-600
I think I'll look for a used VEC, and if what I've been reading is correct it can help me pick up a few HP on motor as well.
I think it doesn't matter if you're wet or dry if you have a fuel problem you're fucked. I use a Hobbs switch on all my installs so that if a pressure drop occurs for whatever reason it shuts down the nitrous. If I use a VEC then I think I'll go dry and let it control the fueling.
Now I gotta go search on where to mount the bottle.....
my wet kit ran perfect. never had a problem and the car made power. i used the VEC2 as my window and rpm switch which makes it really easy and clean install.
i think the main reason the dry kits are not loved is if you have any kind of fuel hiccup, you're screwed a lot faster than if it was a wet kit. at least thats what i remember reading or hearing.
and a used VEC can be found for 500-600
I think people don't like dry nitrous because they set them up using retarded methods (like relying on temperature change in the manifold to trigger a bigger pulse width) to modulate fuel. They, in turn, always run to lean and blow it up. Either method, done properly, is equally susceptible to a fueling hickup.
I think I'll look for a used VEC, and if what I've been reading is correct it can help me pick up a few HP on motor as well.
I think it doesn't matter if you're wet or dry if you have a fuel problem you're fucked. I use a Hobbs switch on all my installs so that if a pressure drop occurs for whatever reason it shuts down the nitrous. If I use a VEC then I think I'll go dry and let it control the fueling.
Now I gotta go search on where to mount the bottle.....
I run a dry system on my S/C car. When I race it with NOS, I change the program thru the Vec to add more fuel, so it really turns into a semi-wet system, BUT always make sure the A/F is correct!
Last edited by 99 RT/10 : February 23rd, 2008 at 03:15 PM.
