How can you remove a Fuel Pump - Gen I without removing tank?
I hear stories about accessing the fuel pump through panels or something? I need to swap my fuel pump but how do I access it. Also is there a particular brand I should go with? Thanks
ive always pulled the tank out thinking that was the only way. if that panel above the tank is actually removeable, please let me know so i can kill myself... because reinstalling the tank is a pain in the ass thanks to the filler neck.
ive always pulled the tank out thinking that was the only way. if that panel above the tank is actually removeable, please let me know so i can kill myself... because reinstalling the tank is a pain in the ass thanks to the filler neck.
Phunk, thats what I assumed too. I think it's the only way, but I was just making sure. Would you care to PM me the best way to remove it? I have my car in the air and looking under there, well.... Where is the friggin tank anyway? It would appear the entire rear end would have to be removed to drop the tank. Any tips are appreciated. -FROG-
Is my post invisible?Remove rear panel in trunk to access fuel tank.
EDIT: - eh, I found it..... Thanks for your input. I'll mess with it later.
I thought you were screwing with me... I looked before because thats what I kinda heard. It's riveted in, so I guess I drill them out and re-rivit when finished? Details please.
Last edited by -FROG- : January 19th, 2008 at 05:13 PM.
its actually really easy to take out, its just a nightmare to put back in. sometimes you get the filler neck in 2 min, sometimes it has taken me like 2 hours to get it back in.
here is how i do it. (pardon my shitty grammer and spelling and english)
order the rivets that hold the trunk panel in and order the rivets that hold the passenger side fender liners in. also pick up some black permatex silicone.
drill out the rivet on the trunk panel. try your best to remove the panel without cracking it anyway, its just shitty fiberglass. your probably gonna scratch the fuck out of it, but dont worry... just get a can of flat black spray can to touch it up after everything is all done... thats what it is painted with from the factory anyway. use some zipties or something of the sort to hold the wiring harness up and out of the way... this is a cumbersome job and you dont want anything dangling in your face getting you even more pissed off.
once the panel is out, undo the 2 large tank clamps at the bottom. you can jiggle the clamps around to pull them out if you want, but what i do is use a bungi cord to tie them both up and out of the way to the trunk latch. this works out well when installation time comes, cause you have to maintain a pulling pressure on the clamps to keep them from coming out when installnig the tank. if they come out at the last second, you get to remove the tank AGAIN and start over the installation.
with the clamps out of the way, open your gas filler. undo the 3 screws IIRC. You will need to remove the fender liners in the area as well, which will require more rivets for reinstallation. i believe there is a small clamp for a small hose on the filler neck that you have to remove, and then you can wrestle the neck out thru the fender.
go under the car and pull off the evap vacuum line near the fuel filter. i think its slightly higher IIRC. disconnect the fuel lines and pull out the filter cause you may as well replace it. slide the tank back until you can reach your hand in and disconnect the connectors on the top of the tank. you really should be as close to an empty tank as possible because its already a cumbersome as fuck job.
now you are free, pull out the tank. i dont remember anythign else holding it in.
Make sure that you are 100% comfortable with everything you did to the pump assembly, because you DO NOT want to do this again for the rest of your life.
installation is reverse process, just a lot more hassle cause the filler neck is very hard to get in. i always use a shit-ton of silicone spray on the filler neck and the grommet seal for the neck. dont clamp the tank back down until the neck is at laest slid in the tank.
REMEMBER, when you are going to reattach the clamps, MAINTAIN a pulling force on them. If you stop pulling on them, they will slide out of their mounts and then the tank has to come back out
Dont bother reinstalling the trunk panel right away. Run the car and sniff around for leaks first. You dont want to bother spending all the time sealing it and riveting it just to have to pull it out again the next day.
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'03 350z
Last edited by phunk : January 19th, 2008 at 07:27 PM.
its actually really easy to take out, its just a nightmare to put back in. sometimes you get the filler neck in 2 min, sometimes it has taken me like 2 hours to get it back in.
here is how i do it.......
Phunk, you have no idea how thankful I am you took the time to write this up! This is great and I can already feel your frustrations with this process, so I deffenitely know what to watch out for. Man, I really appreciate this! THANKS!!!!!
are you sure it's the pump? what are your symptoms? I picked a valve system to help my fuel pump out...and it did the trick...
Here's the deal....
I hardly ever run my tank with less than 1/4 tank of gas. So when I get back from my weekend runarounds, it's virtually on empty. This is bad on the pump I would assume if done often and I do it all the time, not thinking about any harm.
So my car just stopped running while driving down the street one day. I rolled into a parking lot so safely because of my speed I was going and parked the car, Thank God. The motor turns over like normal but the car just won't start. I looked at everything under the hood, checked some of my wires under the hood and under the dash well. When I got the car home, I turned the key and never heard the fuel pump prime, so started looking into that. I checked the "schrader valve" on my fuel lines on top of the motor and it barely spit out a little fuel. I have messed with many hot rod mustangs and them 5.0's shoot out massive amounts of fuel from that valve, so this tells me, my mighty V-10 isn't getting fuel. With this in mind, I turned the key once more with the assumption, pressure should build build up in order to start the car. After turning the key and hearing nothing, I walked over to purge the fuel line once more and absolutely nothing came out.
I also found the Fuel pump relay and checked it out. It seemed to be ok with my test light and I swapped the relay out with another one to confirm. I think thats ok.
After I turn the key to the on position, I heard a high pitch whine when I crawled under the car and listened around a bit. You know that ultra high frequiency ring you hear from a TV sometimes when it's turned on... It sounds to be coming from the fuel tank area but it's REALLY hard to hear. I'm thinking that may be my fuel pump siezed up and oscillating somehow...
Anyhoo, from driving it around with hardley any gas in the tank ALL the friggin time, I think I fried my fuel pump.
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94' RT/10
12.1 @ 115 (1.87 60ft) on worn Pilots, cone filters and Dynomax w/no cats-406HP/475TQ
I need to swap my fuel pump but how do I access it. Also is there a particular brand I should go with? Thanks
Any tips are appreciated. -FROG-
I'll mess with it later.
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