I have recently replaced my radiator and thermostat cause the viper was running very hot and leaking coolant at times. i have replaced the factory radiator with a PWR aluminum radiator and i also replaced my thermostat to a 180 and the car is still getting very hot at times it will get up to around 235-240 almost in the red. Why is this happening? what can i do?
I have recently replaced my radiator and thermostat cause the viper was running very hot and leaking coolant at times. i have replaced the factory radiator with a PWR aluminum radiator and i also replaced my thermostat to a 180 and the car is still getting very hot at times it will get up to around 235-240 almost in the red. Why is this happening? what can i do?
you must likely have air in the system. search "burping" the coolant system.
Step two would be find out if the fan(s) are running at the proper temps. All the radiator in the world won't change engine temps at low speeds since the fans really control the temps then. If its getting hot at highway speeds then it could be air in the system or perhaps the water pump going out. What year is the car?
i had a simalar problem but mine was a water pump impeler spinning on its shaft but i think this only happens to 2000-2002 but if you have changed pumps maybe you have one of them.
The car is a 97 and its not getting hot at highway speeds only at slow speeds and no i never changed the pumps but i took it to my local dealer and they say everything is working correctly and there not sure why it would be running so hot
Check the pil level and pressure, the number one thing that cools an engine is oil, then water, then air. Also check your LT and ST fuel ratios as fuel/air mix and timing can cause it to run hot as shit and cook the motor. The other suggestions above certainly applies, I wanted to address the problem, not the symptoms and burping is a BITCH on the Viper too! Also, plug in an OBD II or similar and verify the temp to make sure it isn't a guage.
Check the pil level and pressure, the number one thing that cools an engine is oil, then water, then air. Also check your LT and ST fuel ratios as fuel/air mix and timing can cause it to run hot as shit and cook the motor. The other suggestions above certainly applies, I wanted to address the problem, not the symptoms and burping is a BITCH on the Viper too! Also, plug in an OBD II or similar and verify the temp to make sure it isn't a guage.
Get the later model fan module kit , roe facia duct kit , alum rad,(wich you have, I run a Ron Davis),thermostat,(u-have) burp it on a incline, clean your rad. of trash/junk that build up in the little fins up the front, and remember that the gauge reads about 10 deg hotter that it really is, (at least it does on mine). My 97 used to run 220+ , now it is 180 to 200. Turn on your ac when it gets hot , the fans will help cool it down.
It sounds like your fan is not coming on. When the car gets to 225, does the fan kick on high? If you turn on the heater or A/C the fan should come low speed, does it?
It sounds like your fan is not coming on. When the car gets to 225, does the fan kick on high? If you turn on the heater or A/C the fan should come low speed, does it?
This is CRITICAL to see and will rule out a lot of complicated stuff. If it doesn't, there is a relay and fuse near the battery post under the hood to change/check. If you are not 100% sure on how to burp, you can call me and I will walk you through it, I did it for a few other Alley members before 856-486-1297. Those Roe houses would do the trick too helping to remove air, but I suffered with air in my system and thought it was all out myself only to discover it wasn't and my is it a bitch compared to other cars as other wrenching members can attest. You have something going on and it needs to be addressed fast or we can mail you a bucket for engine parts once the head gaskets blow if you are lucky. Gary
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Now that the prices of virtually everything are going up and up and now that thousands of people are losing their jobs everyday as the US goverment still hands out 10,000+ checks to those people just getting off the boat, I think I will take a boat ride and get in line, I sure could use the money to pay for the gas in my Viper and GTO!
according to the service manual the easiet way the water pump can be tested is by turning on the heat in the cockpit, no heat water pump has failed
I just went through the same thing...changed thermostat and radiator...ended up being the water pump. Funny thing is, though, the heater was working. I never checked the heater at any revs over idle so this might be why it still worked as the impeller was barely slipping (it only slipped at higher revs).
I think it is the water pump but im not a very handy mechanic so what should i be looking at for parts and labor??? (dealer here charges about $100/hour)
Nut up and fix it or sell it to somebody that will , see all posts above................
I hate to be mean but he's hit the nail on the head. I mean if you cant check the stuff and fix it yourself spend the money and get it fixed. At $100 an hour shop labor rate is very resonable for any car this day in age. If I took my car to the jeep dealer here I would be charged $115 an hour.
Hope you get your car straightened out, but if you still have over heating problems after you replace your water pump or radiator cap. Its also a sign of a weak headgasket.
i just received a new OE waterpump, gaskets and a lower thermostat delivered from Tators, $545 ($60 was shipping)
Chuck reckons its about a days work to swap, removing the hood and a few other bits to make the task easier, draining the system swapping the parts then putting it all back together
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