Hey guys and gals. I'm kinda new to the Viper world experience as an owner. I have driven a few and finally bought one that needs some body/paint work. I have a lot of body/paint experience so that doesn't scare me but I am hearing about odd glass repair types and techniques. What type of glass composites are the "fiberglass" parts on this car made of? I will be doing at least a little body work on most panels and paint on the whole car. Some parts just a scratch and some need structural work (quarter panel). Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Just want to say that it is an honor to be among your ranks as an owner of such an awesome work of art. BTW it is a 97 GTS that will eventually be ALL black. 16kmiles.
Hey guys and gals. I'm kinda new to the Viper world experience as an owner. I have driven a few and finally bought one that needs some body/paint work. I have a lot of body/paint experience so that doesn't scare me but I am hearing about odd glass repair types and techniques. What type of glass composites are the "fiberglass" parts on this car made of? I will be doing at least a little body work on most panels and paint on the whole car. Some parts just a scratch and some need structural work (quarter panel). Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Just want to say that it is an honor to be among your ranks as an owner of such an awesome work of art. BTW it is a 97 GTS that will eventually be ALL black. 16kmiles.
If you have really done alot of body work, you would not be asking this question... The car is made of sheet molded composite. Make sure to use the same material to repair it with. It applies the same as fiberglass.
Almost all of my bodywork has been with METAL. I also know that if the wrong kind of resin/hardner is used it will be a cluster f*%k. Thanks for your reply and if you have ever seen some of my bodywork and paint you would agree that this job will be a lot easier than the train wrecks that I have fixed in the past.
I doubt that you will be able to find out what type of glass is used. I would recomend an S2 glass woven for the back support, and then move to S2 chopped strand. If you just use any standard ester resin with the MEKP hardener, you will be fine. Also, prep any area with 200 grit, and make sure it is super clean.
If you are just filling some small gouges, use polyester body filler. Juts remember, as in metal work, if it is deep, add more base (lead for metal, glass for fiberglass).
Keep in mind, polyester resins DO NOT stick to plastics.
-Tim
Thanks Tim. Just the kind of info I was looking for. Most of the stuff I will be doing is just gouge/deep scratch stuff with a few cracks thrown in for good measure. What type of body filler do you recommend for the front and rear ABS parts? I have used Rage and Keystone premium before but never on ABS parts.
Norton, has a good plastic filler, as does 3M. If it is a crack, then I would advise going to harbor freight and buying a plastic welder. They are cheap, and if you are going to be doing body-work on ABS, they are invaluable.
When you are buying some filler, ask the body shop supply guy if it is flexible, and ask about shrinkage rates. Plastic filler will shrink more than regualr filler. If you are buying stuff online, go to Eastwood.com. They have tons of items, and most of their stuff is very fresh.
Oh, if you are doing fiberglass repair, make sure you buy new resin. Most resins have a very small shelf life. I order from "US Composites" & "Fiberglast".
One more thing: If you are filling in gouges that are deep and semi-wide, drill some small 1/16" holes in the center of the gouge to help hold the filler.
-Tim
Great advice, Tim. Just the kind of info I needed. Now can you give me any advice on how to make the day 36 hours long so that I have time to get this car done by New Years Day??
Sorry, no advice on making the day longer... Well, you could hire a few illegals that can do body work. I hear they work for next to nothing, and the manpower multiplier could get you to 36 hours of work per day!
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