since mine is fried... I need to upgrade. As most of you know Im going to be doing the CPE turbo system so I want to start planning ahead. What clutch should I put in the car and where can I find it and how much $$$?
What clutches are the 800-1200rwhp guys using that are holding up to A LOT of abuse?
My car is a Gen 2, pretty stock with only bolt ons. The replacement stock clutches won't last with ET Streets, Centerforce is a pain to get to shift at higher RPms. I've got a Spec 3 now but it's a pain to drive on the street (it's either on or off). I've also had the metalic fuse to the flywheel when loading it on the starting line. I need one with a soft touch on the street and balls to hold a sticky tire on the track.
I have a spec stg 3+ mind you it's not in a viper but it's mated to a t56 so i'm pretty sure it is very close to the spec for the vipers. Let me tell you it grabs like a mofo however, the spec's are very tempermental about being slipped. If you slip the clutch in a lot it will not last very long. I have seen a lot of these spec clutches destroyed after 5-10k miles from being slipped in too much.
On a side note, if you want to see how the spec drives my car is about 10 minutes from PC and would be happy to take you for a spin next time i'm home from school.
remind me who the fuck you are again? I post stuff on svtp because that is my roots... I grew up around cobras and had one hell of a car and that site was awesome and still is
Surprised you didn't go with the twin disc, as that seems to be the clutch to use with the TT's. From what I have heard the twin disc with the MEBA lining is the shiznit. I had the non-MEBA lining and it ended up going out when I sold the car. Only had about 5k miles on it.
Surprised you didn't go with the twin disc, as that seems to be the clutch to use with the TT's. From what I have heard the twin disc with the MEBA lining is the shiznit. I had the non-MEBA lining and it ended up going out when I sold the car. Only had about 5k miles on it.
The McLeod twin w/Meba is arguably the best clutch for the money. However, in my experience it certainly isnt best overall. The Tilton carbon, when configured correctly, beats the McLeod hands down- but at a big price point. It has more torque capacity, longer life, smoother engaugment, shifts better at high RPM due to the hub/floater discs MMOI being so much lower than the Mcleod, has a much shorter pedal travel, and not that it matters, but it is easier to service in an emergency. The key to the Tilton is the Heavyweight Flywheel that we designed with Tilton. Without it, the clutch is a bitch to drive on the street due to an 85% drop in MMOI from stock, and also kills clutch life from excessive slippage just trying to get the car moving.
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Daniel Lesser
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'04 White Mamba Viper SRT-10
'08 Black Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT-8
Last edited by Final GTS : October 2nd, 2007 at 12:42 PM.
I'm not experianced with the clutch setup on your cars, but what I have done in the past is get a clutch with a higher pressure rating (usually high enough to kill your leg in traffic) and then mount either another OEM type, or aftermarket Master cyl. I generally try to get one with a bigger diameter piston that way the travel is less, and lighter. I don't know how many of you actually work on your cars, but it's something to chew on.
i have over 1000 miles on the Spec clutch. Babied it for 500 miles. Raced it in two events. Fused to the flywheel trying to slip it out of the hole. Maybe the slipping did it in. On the street it's good for the first release after that it chatters twice and goes. Still chatters in sixth gear under heavy load. Does a gen 3 clutch fit in a gen 2? I think there is a different size flywheel.
Linear Mode
