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A Roe w/ 925hp at the crank?

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Old August 13th, 2007, 07:53 AM   #21
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My car makes 753.06rwhp and 793.83rwtq with 26* of total timing.

The mods to get a Roe at that power are pretty extensive. Im running 12lbs with mild heads/cam, Jesels, water meth, AEM, fuel system, exhaust etc.

I've had great success with my setup, but if you want 925hp at the crank, do it the easy way with a Paxton or TT. No reason to push the Roe to the outer limits when there are easier options IMO.

Ward, are you referring to the same setup I know about???
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Old August 13th, 2007, 07:57 AM   #22
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Ian -

Those are some very impressive #'s for a ROE! I wouldn't be surprised if you have the record for power. sweet!!
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Old August 13th, 2007, 08:01 AM   #23
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Ian -

Those are some very impressive #'s for a ROE! I wouldn't be surprised if you have the record for power. sweet!!
Larry Macedo's dyno for my car was close to 750rwHP, but 3 undependent dynos could barely get 650 rwHP out of mine the way it was delivered.

I'd like to see some independent dyno numbers on your car, Ian.
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Old August 13th, 2007, 08:03 AM   #24
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Ian -

Those are some very impressive #'s for a ROE! I wouldn't be surprised if you have the record for power. sweet!!
Thanks Joseph, but I think there are a couple 510 stroker Roe's out there making more. DW has built some Roe cars with big numbers, the owners just don't post on the boards.
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Old August 13th, 2007, 08:13 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by SUN RA KAT View Post
Larry Macedo's dyno for my car was close to 750rwHP, but 3 undependent dynos could barely get 650 rwHP out of mine the way it was delivered.

I'd like to see some independent dyno numbers on your car, Ian.
I have not re-dyno'd (is that a word) this setup, but my last tune I did. Larry's numbers were actually lower than than my local dyno (his 68X to there 70X).
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Old August 13th, 2007, 09:24 AM   #26
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Ted -



believe me, i'd love to see a ported-head ROE car that makes over 770. hell, i'd like to see one that makes over 750. In fact, breaking that 700 barrier on a ROE w/o NOS seems impossible to me so far. And I've built a couple to try!



JD
Actually, Joe Donovan tuned 3 different Roe cars without nitrous all over 700 rwhp just last weekend. The highest was around 719 rwhp, but the car still had cats on it and had 3.55 gears. If he would remove the cats and put the 3.07 gears put back in, the car would likely be over 740 rwhp.

Jerry Colpitts made 748 rwhp on a Roe with heads/cam.

Those are all pump gas and water/methanol cars. All factory bottom ends (except Jerry's which is a stock displacement Arrow rebuild).

750 rwhp on a Roe is not impossible. It just requires the right parts and a good tune.

That being said, I have yet to see an 800 rwhp Roe car without NOS.

My car is a just a bolt on Roe kit with headers/exhaust/intake/rockers and water/methanol. No head work. No throttle bodies. 10# of boost. It made 630/675 and went 10.43 @ 147 on drag radials.

I've seen cars that make a lot more power not run the times. I've run centrifugal cars making 70+ rwhp more than me and can throw them a beating from a dig or a slow roll up to about 140 mph when the big hp gives them the ability to come around me. But if most of your driving/racing is done from stoplight to stoplight (in a controlled environment, far far away from any populace) or done at the drag strip, a Roe is a great setup for the money.
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Old August 13th, 2007, 10:22 AM   #27
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Hmm, sounds like Roe's getting a bad rap.

...... Since I have new Michelins on the car and trouble finding traction below 80mph, I wonder what I'd do with another 100hp from the Nitrous?

I was eating a Z06 on my way home today and fishtailed after I passed him. He was impressed, I wasn't. Maybe after 100mph I could hit Nitrous, but I have no interest in even tryin that and don't drive that fast on the street.

If it's a street car, then I'd suggest the Roe as it makes hp where you drive the car and works at light throttle without high rpm. I don't think that because a TT or a Paxton mkaes bigger Dyno numbers it's the best choice, unless you only race the car.

......but it had NO TRACTION until you were going over 100mph. I thought I needed to get used to it, but it was the tires having minimal traction.

Ted
Ted, the instant torque of the Twin Screw blower like the Roe is unsurpassed.

For street car driveability the instant torque can be awesome but also dangerous.

A little more linear power curve like a properly sized twin T-04 turbo system provides is a much better option for the street driver to safely put down any level of power.

Ask Marty B who ran my T-04 TT on the street how much faster it was.

He drove the car and told me how much faster it was.

If you logged the air intake temperatures on the Roe even with water-meth for everyday driving, you would see they are much higher than an air-air intercooled TT.

If you do any long pulls, or back to back highway pulls, you will also notice the heat soaking that occurs with the twin screw that takes quite a long time to dissipate. When you reach this point, it will be a long time before the air intake temperatures(AIT's) come back down to normal.

With an air-air intercooled TT, AIT's come back down very quickly.

One more important point that people are missing here is that once you get to 700-750 RWHP with the Roe, that is the end of the line in terms of making more power.

At this power level, the blower is already past it's range of efficiency.

A stock motored Viper with intercooled T-04 TT's and no more than a boost a pump, bigger injectors and fuel rails can lay down 800 RWHP.

This setup can be installed and tuned for 15K.

This setup is just the beginning of the power that can be made.

I am not trying to burst anyboody's bubble here, I am just pointing out the facts.
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Old August 13th, 2007, 10:28 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyBravo View Post
My car is a just a bolt on Roe kit with headers/exhaust/intake/rockers and water/methanol. No head work. No throttle bodies. 10# of boost. It made 630/675 and went 10.43 @ 147 on drag radials.

I've seen cars that make a lot more power not run the times. I've run centrifugal cars making 70+ rwhp more than me and can throw them a beating from a dig or a slow roll up to about 140 mph when the big hp gives them the ability to come around me.
You hit 147 with only 630 wheel? That is amazing, as I would think you would be in the high 130's with that HP. When you say slow roll, what MPH are you referring too?
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Old August 13th, 2007, 10:32 AM   #29
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I think 630RWHP would be nearer to 133-4. I am guessing JB was on NOS to get to 147.
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Old August 13th, 2007, 10:55 AM   #30
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I think 630RWHP would be nearer to 133-4. I am guessing JB was on NOS to get to 147.
Damn it! I am usually much better at proof reading my posts. 147 mph was a typo. Sorry about that, gentlemen. You guys are both right. High 130's is about the norm at my power level.

The car went 10.43 @ 137. 1.52 60' on BFG's.

My apologies.
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Old August 13th, 2007, 12:04 PM   #31
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750rwhp is POSSIBLE on the roe's it seems but thats the end of the line for them. To spend anymore cash to try and go higher is just dumb.
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Old August 13th, 2007, 12:19 PM   #32
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One more important point that people are missing here is that once you get to 700-750 RWHP with the Roe, that is the end of the line in terms of making more power.

At this power level, the blower is already past it's range of efficiency.
Very true...the efficiency takes a dump and creates a lot more heat. That compressor is really too small for the V-10. The Roe is great for what it was originally meant for when Sean developed it. But what fun is it to have a 5-8lb setup, LOL.

I'm a Roe owner and love my setup, but like I said before, IMO if you want the big numbers start with a TT or Paxton. When I want a lot more power, I have two options: 1. Nitrous (which is not my first pick) 2. Start all over.
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Old August 13th, 2007, 12:38 PM   #33
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But, what do you do with BIG power if you don't race? I have Nitrous and can't imagine any situation, except slicks and a track when I could hit the button safely.

My car had enough power to snap half shafts with under 700hp. If I wanted to spend mor money or go faster I'd go to the suspension and work on getting enough traction to use the power I already have.

I could have bought a 1,200 TT for about $10,000 more than I paid for this car, but then I'd never be able to WOT it. I would expect no traction until 120mph? So anytime I went WOT under 100mph I'd be risking my life. I didn't buy it.

I bought a car that I can drive and that's what's fun. Dyno racing is OK, but not much fun.

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Old August 13th, 2007, 12:42 PM   #34
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Plum,

You and Simms are both correct. 750 rwhp is about the max for the Roe, even with all of the supporting mods. There really isn't any way around it. That blower can only flow xxx cfm of air. Period.

I'm still a big fan of the Roe for a number of reasons:

1. Cost. It is an affordable solution for those on a budget to get over 550 rwhp without a lot of other expenses.

2. Ease of installation. I installed my Roe in a friend's garage with a nice set of tools, having never even changed the spark plugs on a Viper before. It was simple and painless to do, and it forced me to learn a little bit more about the car.

3. Reliability. The unit itself is damn near bulletproof. You will find very few failures of the actual Autorotor assembly. Once tuned, the car runs like a champ and should be safe for tens of thousands of miles. Not having to worry about belt slip is an added bonus to me.

4. Streetability. The car makes massive amounts of torque and power even down low in the rpm band. I happen to love having that kind of tire shredding power available at will, without having to spin the motor all the way to redline in every gear to get it. I modulate traction with my right foot. I'd rather have it instantaneously than have to wait for it. The car is a beast from basically any rpm.

Here's where it gets sticky. In my opinion, the Roe maxes out somewhere around 750 rwhp. If you know at the BEGINNING that you could be happy with that amount of power or less, it's a great bang for the buck. If you even THINK you might want more, then maybe it's not such a bargain.

However, it is a great band-aid for my speed addiction. I knew I didn't have the patience to save up $15k or $30k for a tuner Paxton kit or a TT kit. So instead, I spent the $8k and got the Roe. Then I bought some headers for $1k. Then I bought some rockers for $900. Now I'm doing the heads and manifold. I will end up spending $15k or so, I'm sure. But it seems less painless doing it over time. Furthermore, the heads/manifold, exhaust, fuel system, VEC2, etc are NOT WASTED even if I change over to a Paxton or twin turbos. It certainly can't hurt to put a Paxton or TT's on a car that already has all of those things, so I'm not going backwards on costs.

The only thing that would not be reusable or be a benefit is the actual Roe blower itself. And there is still some recoverable money out of that.

I just did the car in stages and made sure that everything I bought could still be used later on if I ever changed my setup.

If you're patient and you know what you want at the front end, then TT's are proabably the best way to go. If you're impatient or unsure, a Roe is a great start and the supporting mods aren't wasted even if you change the type of forced induction later.

Just my $.02.

And for the record, I'm still calling BS on 925 crank hp on a Roe.
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Old August 13th, 2007, 01:15 PM   #35
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well said !!!
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Old August 13th, 2007, 09:17 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simms View Post

Ward, are you referring to the same setup I know about???

Yes ....and there is a blower that can do more CFMs than your standard Roe blower.



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Old August 13th, 2007, 11:46 PM   #37
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Some good Info

Simms - I'm sure many will be surprised
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