"Gorgeous Black RT-10 , 450 HP V10, 6 speed, 2 tops, low miles, $5500 spent on wet sand and polish, 2005 exhaust, nicest 2nd Generation viper in Canada....."
I tried the "search" feature but didn't find what I wanted. Trying to keep noobie questions to a minimum when I can...however...
What exactly is a wet sand and polish? Why would you have one done? Is there something I should be weary of if this was done?
......your knowledge and witty comments are encouraged.
wet sand and polish I think means they wet sanded the clear on the car and buffed it out. Vipers have a lot of orange peel in the clear (typical of all Chryslers) They probably leveled it with 2000 grit and buffed. No big deal, not sure about $5000 to do it, seems excessive. Also note in doing this you actually are removing some of the clear, makes it thinner, so you have to be carefull in the future when you buff car car or you will burn right thru.
wet sand and polish I think means they wet sanded the clear on the car and buffed it out. Vipers have a lot of orange peel in the clear (typical of all Chryslers) They probably leveled it with 2000 grit and buffed. No big deal, not sure about $5000 to do it, seems excessive. Also note in doing this you actually are removing some of the clear, makes it thinner, so you have to be carefull in the future when you buff car car or you will burn right thru.
yes that is correct ... they wet sanded the clear to take the orange peel out then they buff it out to make the paint look wet... it is also called cut and polish... just remember they charge by the hour at probably $40 -$50 an hr, so $5000 does seem a bit high for something that might take 8 -12 hrs
Last edited by knuckles : January 21st, 2007 at 12:29 PM.
Reason: spelling
I had my 2000 Black RT/10 wetsanded & polished by a body shop, $400 and it looked absolutely magnificent. All the small scratches, swirls ect. were gone. it was better then new
We do A lot of custom paint work and can say on the long side there should be a maximum of 25 hours wet sanding and buffing to a show finish (on most paint jobs).
Including 1200 grit initial to 1500 to 2000 to 2500 to trizac (3000) then compound, finish glaze, hand polish.*all this is not a good idea on factory paint btw as there is not enough material on the factory paint to cut it down that amount and not jeopordize the life of the paint. If the car has been repainted different story. either way that's Fn ridiculous for anyone to quote that at that price LOL
We do A lot of custom paint work and can say on the long side there should be a maximum of 25 hours wet sanding and buffing to a show finish (on most paint jobs).
Including 1200 grit initial to 1500 to 2000 to 2500 to trizac (3000) then compound, finish glaze, hand polish.*all this is not a good idea on factory paint btw as there is not enough material on the factory paint to cut it down that amount and not jeopordize the life of the paint. If the car has been repainted different story. either way that's Fn ridiculous for anyone to quote that at that price LOL
I found the Vipers to have an excellent finish straight from the factory. But for cars that do show a lot of OP from the factory, what do you recommend? For example, the C6 Z06 has HORRIBLE OP. Is it possible to eliminate this without taking off too much clear?
[quote=onerareviper;for cars that do show a lot of OP from the factory, what do you recommend? For example, the C6 Z06 has HORRIBLE OP. Is it possible to eliminate this without taking off too much clear?[/QUOTE]
Your best bet is to check the mill thickness with a paint meter, but I can answer this pretty well prior to doing that.... I would wet sand with 2000, then trizac followed by light duty 3M compound and then finess it with 3M perfect it II polish on a 1400RPM buffer. BE " V E R Y" CAUTIOUS who you let do this or you WILL be repainting your car FWIW.
We do A lot of custom paint work and can say on the long side there should be a maximum of 25 hours wet sanding and buffing to a show finish (on most paint jobs).
Including 1200 grit initial to 1500 to 2000 to 2500 to trizac (3000) then compound, finish glaze, hand polish.*all this is not a good idea on factory paint btw as there is not enough material on the factory paint to cut it down that amount and not jeopordize the life of the paint. If the car has been repainted different story. either way that's Fn ridiculous for anyone to quote that at that price LOL
I have to chime in and agree here. Factory paint does not really have enough mils of the clearcoat to be able to work it to much a degree without harming the paint in the long run. Thinning out your clearcoat is basically taking away all the shine, depth and sunscreen for your paint job. Using a mil gauge to check the thickness of your existing paint won't help you much, you won't be able to figure out the thickness of the basecoat versus the clearcoat.
I agree and will not do it. Note my post, it will really thin out the clear, Goto your local dealer showroom and look how bad the paint is under the lights. It really shows how bad the orange peal is. I actaully have to try and duplicate that when I repair newer cars or the paint doesnt look like it matches.
We do A lot of custom paint work and can say on the long side there should be a maximum of 25 hours wet sanding and buffing to a show finish (on most paint jobs).
Including 1200 grit initial to 1500 to 2000 to 2500 to trizac (3000) then compound, finish glaze, hand polish.*all this is not a good idea on factory paint btw as there is not enough material on the factory paint to cut it down that amount and not jeopordize the life of the paint. If the car has been repainted different story. either way that's Fn ridiculous for anyone to quote that at that price LOL
Could a few coats of clear be applied to the original clear to build it up before doing the 1200/1500/2000/2500/3000 polish deal?
Could a few coats of clear be applied to the original clear to build it up before doing the 1200/1500/2000/2500/3000 polish deal?
Yep done all the time when you do a blend panel (where you blend the color coat into a panel to help with color match) depending on the color you need to break the clear with 600 grit. I like to use 400 wet, but on silvers you need to use 800 as the sand scratches will show thru.
Yep done all the time when you do a blend panel (where you blend the clear coat into a panel to help with color match) depending on the color you need to break the clear with 600 grit. I like to use 400 wet, but on silvers you need to use 800 as the sand scratches will show thru.
Question - Wet sand and polish?
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