phil, have you done it yourself? just wondering because a buddy just bought one and we were going to do it on the first week in december in my garage. want to come by for some beverages my brother-josh
phil, have you done it yourself? just wondering because a buddy just bought one and we were going to do it on the first week in december in my garage. want to come by for some beverages my brother-josh
I have put one on, let me know if you need a hand. It is not bad but will take a full day. Keying the crank is the worst part.
The tuning can be very difficult...unless I run race fuel mine pings..I have had Roe make up a dozen cards via phone and mail with different fuel and timing curves and it still pings. Make sure you have a good tuner nearby. I know if I was near Sean he could dial it in fine but I'm not...
I had no problem doing the install. There is nothing complicated involved. I had fun installing it.
The base tuning supplied worked very well for me. The VEC2 tuning software is pretty easy to use. If you have a wideband, you can do your own tweaking of the program.
I would suggest doing the power steering pulley and bracket as part of the install to replace the cheap POS factory ones.
just been on the website and im liking the look of that black anodized s/c...a lot
They are calling it a true bolt on unit and the price seems pretty good for the gains they are estimating.
I am ok with a wrench though by no means a mechanic. Has anyone installed one of these systems themselves and how easy was it?
Thanks
If you can change an intake and have basic wiring skills it shouldn't be a problem.
It's a great feeling to do things like this yourself.
Keying the crank depends on the tools. Someone local was installing a s/c and they called me to do the crank. 15 minutes with the right tools ($60 for a drill and swivel)
just been on the website and im liking the look of that black anodized s/c...a lot
They are calling it a true bolt on unit and the price seems pretty good for the gains they are estimating.
I am ok with a wrench though by no means a mechanic. Has anyone installed one of these systems themselves and how easy was it?
Thanks
We have 2 --5 pound Roe cars--both black anodized--no water/meth. I did the install on the 2000 car last spring and put over 9,000 miles on it this summer includiing a little track time. The crank keying was the hardest part for me. I found the SC instructions good, but could've had an extra comment added here and there. I wrote a complete daily job journal and daily pictures. I'd be happy to share if you decide to do it. For example, contrary to the instructions, the crank pulley does not need to come off to drill the crank.
As for tuning, you really should take it upon yourself to learn it --and do it yourself. The 'stock' cards Sean sent were rich--the way they should be to start out (high 9s-low 10s)-- even though it seemed to run well--there was lots left to get.(11.5 AFR target) I also found I needed different cards for different temps. I have 3 cards now for the different weather we get here. Sean is most excellent at helping a novice (me) along. The new car we picked up in late August was tuned on a dyno in 2003, and even though the dyno sheet I got with the car was quite good (570 RWTQ at 2600 RPM)--I found it was still quite fat for AFR. I bought a WB in September and sent the 2003 VEC2 in for an upgrade. I started logging just before winter set in. I found the car was running high 9s to mid 10s and spitting some black stuff out. Im just about there for my 'cold' weather card, but ran out of weather this year before finishing. I'll finish in the spring.
I recommend you do the install yourself. It's a satisfying experience and you'll become more 'one' with your ride.
thanks for the input steve
the tuning side is what worries me. Simply because althought theres dynos near me, i doubt any of them have set up a VEC2 before. Would i have to get some specialized software with the kit to allow my local dyno to map the car?
Thanks for the encouragement guys.
As stated above, Sean has everything you need and top notch support to help you through.
The basic tuning, changing only fuel loading at 250 RPM increments based on logging runs in 3rd gear, is not as hard as you might think. Sean will walk you through it. Before starting the log runs, you should set your fuel adaptives close to zero. That's another step, but again not very hard to do. Sean has the tool for this as well. I have never touched the spark. Advanced guys in here and the other board know how to manipulate both to stay on the edge. I'm quite satisfied with the results I've obtained. We drive our car a lot. I wanted a good safe tune so as not to be to lean and/or worry about detonation--especially with my cast pistons.
I'm not going to argue with the dyno only guys, but I think making a few cards over varying temperature ranges is a better way to go than the dyno.
I believe Sean will be releasing a IAT component to the VEC2 pretty soon which may negate the need for multiple cards. Until then, a card made in a dyno shop at a particular room temperature will likely be too rich in excessive heat and too lean when it gets real cold (40 degrees). I can't speak to how water/meth effects this equation. I have been told it's a little trickier tuning with the water meth. Also, as regards not getting the water meth kit, I didn't want to give up the trunk room either. We travel a lot in the summer. You can fit a lot of 'stuff' in that corner.
The only thing i would suggest is to get it tuned as soon as possible. After my Roe was installed i drove for a couple weeks with it with the base tune from Roe and had no real issues. When i went down to donovan (PBJ) for tuning he was VERY surprised my car was still together, the AF's at WOT were in the high 13's on the base tune, and that was with a BAP (boost a pump) turned up.
Every car is different, i wouldnt drive much on the base tune from Roe.
Good information -- every car is different. The problem with a dyno and no permanent WB installed is that you can never see where you're at in different temps. I know for a fact that it takes different tuning from a 40 through 100 degree running range.
I would ask this question of the dyno guys. Is a WB sensor stuck up the tail pipe as accurate as one permanently installed in the collector area? Or do the tail pipe only sensors take the extra air into account at the end of the exhaust system and adjust accordingly? If not, Could this account for the lean readings you got Mike?
If you are going forced induction you need a Wide Band O2. It is that simple. You will be running in the dark without one. Don't worry about not having a dyno around you as you can tune on the street with the WB.
Just a thought, but I am not sure if the Octane rating system used in the UK is ther same as used here in the States. Double check that, before you have Sean set up a 97 octane card.
If you are going forced induction you need a Wide Band O2. It is that simple. You will be running in the dark without one. Don't worry about not having a dyno around you as you can tune on the street with the WB.
Linear Mode
