This is a 96 RT/10 with 75k miles. It had the rear end changed, tranny changed and cluth/brakes changed. The color was also changed from Blk to Red.
Was a company lease then sold in a auction...
What do you guys make of this?
What should the price be?
With all those changes, does it tell you Viper Gurus anything?
With 75k miles, should I be concerned with the engine and its performance?
No more than mid 20's. Check all aspects of the car's body; look for any unalignment in the doors, hood, trunk lid, etc. Get it up on a lift and check all along the frame rails for any signs of repair, staightening, cutting + welding, etc. Look at the actual floor pan sheet metal, even where it goes over the rear axle for any waviness, crinkling, etc. Check the vin's on the front right top frame rail in the engine compartment, as well as on the engine block (right rear side of engine block; vertically.) Take it to a dodge dealer who has a certified viper tech (not all dodge dealers do.) Have them check the car over and under for any previous frame or body damage. It's well worth the $50 or so. They can also tell you if it needs anything mechanically.
Don't buy it. Sounds like he's hiding something, as he has no reason to be pissed when you're spending 25 thou. The first viper I looked at a few years ago (when I knew nothing about them and was looking for my first viper,) was a 94 rt-10 in red w/ 10k miles. The car looked great to me and drove fine (although it had brand new tires; who knows how they would have worn, or how the car felt above the 60mph that I went.) I then paid a local viper tech look at it for me. He went over it for about an hour with me. Total cost: $30. The car had been pretty badly hit at one point in the front and rear (simulaniously.) The entire car had been repainted. He pointed things out to me that I didn't see. First on the ground. The gaps on the lower corners of the trunk lid were an 1/8" in on the left and 1/8" out on the right. Door panels not aligning exactly (although the doors closed fine hood latches on both sides near the windshield had been moved (you could see the original bolt/washer markings on the hinges where it used to be adjusted from the factory, now not lined up w/the marks- different locations, etc) Underneath, there was plenty, Part of the floor pan (as it goes over the rear end,) was wavy. The lower frame rail on one side had been straightened and they actually used bondo and paint to make that part of the frame rail look smooth again (nice hiding job!). For me back then, I wouldn't have thought to look so closely. This guy ended up selling the car on ebay. I tried to warn bidders, as there wasn't any record of the accident on carfax, but somebody got nailed with it. It was never reported and still had a clear title. BE CAREFUL!!!!!! If you find one out of state (like I did,) pay for a dodge dealer who has a certified viper tech (in that area,) to look at the car and call you with the results, prior to flying or driving, and wasting your money and time. Tell him you want him to look for any previous frame and body damage/ repair, re-painting, as well as anything it may need mechanically. Check both carfax and auto check, too. Ask the tech to check everything and see if it's wear jives with it mileage. (Watch for possible flood cars from the south now.) If all looks good, then make plans to get there. Usually a seller will be glad to pick you up at a nearby airport, as he realizes your not a tire-kicker, coming from out of state. Arrange to take the car to that dealership and meet with the viper tech who looked it over for you. Have him show you anything that he had found, over and under. Also have him check to see that the 2 recalls (reinforcements) have been done (rear-end, and front frame.) Look it over yourself, too, especially when it's on the rack. If it all checks out good, but does need anything mechanically, you can use this to barter with on the price, if you decide you want it! If you do buy one, pay for a company to ship it to your door. Don't try to drive it a long distance, not knowing the car or anything about it yet. My cost was $600 to my door, and they were fully insured for $100,000 per car on their trailer. Enclosed, about $1100 if you really have to have it. Good luck in your hunt!
Thanks Man... Just be careful guys. These 2 guys own a car dealership in San Diego and bs a lot... one becomes the owner of the shop and the other pretends to be a friend of the owner selling the Viper and they say of buy private, we'll put in paper you bought it cheap for tax purpose...
I changed my email address and caught them bsing again... turns out the car was wrecked (one of my friends told me), the whole back was replaced with another... car is a 96 but a 98 VIN on it... all kinds of crap... Mileage says 80k but VIN shows 23k
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98 GTS Red w/Silver Stripes - 1 of 11
Its so simple to be difficult but so difficult to be simple!:[right]
It's a hell of alot of money to spend on a car (for most of us,) so it really is worth it to have it checked out thoroughly. Every seller who is straight up and honest with nothing to hide would have no problem with having it checked out!
Good luck!
96 RT/10 - Need Viper Guru Advice
hood latches on both sides near the windshield had been moved (you could see the original bolt/washer markings on the hinges where it used to be adjusted from the factory, now not lined up w/the marks- different locations, etc) Underneath, there was plenty, Part of the floor pan (as it goes over the rear end,) was wavy. The lower frame rail on one side had been straightened and they actually used bondo and paint to make that part of the frame rail look smooth again (nice hiding job!). For me back then, I wouldn't have thought to look so closely. This guy ended up selling the car on ebay. I tried to warn bidders, as there wasn't any record of the accident on carfax, but somebody got nailed with it. It was never reported and still had a clear title. BE CAREFUL!!!!!! If you find one out of state (like I did,) pay for a dodge dealer who has a certified viper tech (in that area,) to look at the car and call you with the results, prior to flying or driving, and wasting your money and time. Tell him you want him to look for any previous frame and body damage/ repair, re-painting, as well as anything it may need mechanically. Check both carfax and auto check, too. Ask the tech to check everything and see if it's wear jives with it mileage. (Watch for possible flood cars from the south now.) If all looks good, then make plans to get there. Usually a seller will be glad to pick you up at a nearby airport, as he realizes your not a tire-kicker, coming from out of state. Arrange to take the car to that dealership and meet with the viper tech who looked it over for you. Have him show you anything that he had found, over and under. Also have him check to see that the 2 recalls (reinforcements) have been done (rear-end, and front frame.) Look it over yourself, too, especially when it's on the rack. If it all checks out good, but does need anything mechanically, you can use this to barter with on the price, if you decide you want it! If you do buy one, pay for a company to ship it to your door. Don't try to drive it a long distance, not knowing the car or anything about it yet. My cost was $600 to my door, and they were fully insured for $100,000 per car on their trailer. Enclosed, about $1100 if you really have to have it. Good luck in your hunt!
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