Three times on my short drive to work, my viper just shut off for a second and turned it's self back on. I'm guessing there is a short somewhere. Any ideas to what it might be?
Did you do anything to make it run? Jiggle the keys?
Sounds ignition related. Could be cam or crank sensors.
Test can be run if you have a multi meter.
crank sensor located passenger side of block near middle
connector has 3 wires, 1. orange, pcm +5v,
2. blk-ltblu, pcm -
3. gry-blk, crank sig
test: connect +test lead to blk-ltblu, connect -test lead to a ground. key on voltage should be less than .10v.
if OK then remove leads and connect +test lead to orange -test lead to ground key on voltage should be 5v
if OK then remove test lead and connect +test lead to gry-blk -test lead to ground key on voltage should be 5v.
If you need cam sensor test I can post.
The car starts up just fine without any jiggle of the keys or anything. Just, as I drive, and only when I am moving, the car will shut everything off (engine, radio, lights) for just a moment and then turn back on.
Scratch the ignition problem.
I would look for a loose connection.
Any battery work recently?
Also note it's difficult to troubleshoot a problem over the net.
Scratch the ignition problem.
I would look for a loose connection.
Any battery work recently?
Also note it's difficult to troubleshoot a problem over the net.
I'll look at the battery for a loose connection. The battery was replaced a while back. Also, when I arm the alarm, I noticed that the horn sounds very weak. The lights, stereo and windows all work just as I would expect them. Could there be a short in the horn?
The battery is used for cranking/starting, but once the car is running all the electronics pretty much run off the alternator. I'd check connections there just in case.
Given your last comment though, sounds like a loose ground connection. If you are also noticing a weak alarm, you have issues that are related to battery voltage as well as alternator power.
Shorts will usually cause a fuse to blow.
Horns have a high amp draw. That maybe why it sounds weak.
Lights and windows work fine with key on engine off?
I just checked, the windows go up fine with the radio blasting and the engine off. The horn also sounded fine which actually suprised me because for the past few days, it sounded like a dieing duck when I turned on the alarm.
I just checked a wiring diagram and it could be any number of connections.
I would check that the start/run fuse is seated properly, check all grounds and other connections.
Thats all the help I can offer without working on it.
Let us know what it turns out to be.
Check the grounds.... I believe there is a large one on the pasenger side at the front of the engine. Make sure none of the grounds are corroded, or if you have done any powdercoating/painting of these areas that metal is clear and clean
Whats an FE?? A week ago on a trip my 99 RT10 was doing same thing. 1st alternator was flashn on and off the car would run intermittent. Turned out to be a bad factory Pos connection 8" down fron the jump start post under the harness cover and tape. There is a connecter that has two 10 gauge wires on one end one the alternator feed the other feeds all the fuses. The connect looked like it got hot from being loose then it burned off. I just made it back home before it quit all together.
If your car is cutting out while driving along with your lights and all electrical accessories, the problem can only be a loose connection on the negative side of the battery.
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