Apples and Oranges. MGW makes a shift knob. B&M makes the shifter - the actual linkage between the knob and the tranny. I have both on my car and its the perfect setup IMO (though I don't think MGW makes the knob anymore that I have on my car, its ~4" tall or so).
Apples and Oranges. MGW makes a shift knob. B&M makes the shifter - the actual linkage between the knob and the tranny. I have both on my car and its the perfect setup IMO (though I don't think MGW makes the knob anymore that I have on my car, its ~4" tall or so).
From their website, it looks just like the knob, not the entire shifter...I have their shifter and knob on my mustang, but then again it's not a Viper...knob and B&M shifter is a good combo.
The MGW shift knob is just the knob, nothing else. However, you will find that simply switching out the huge factory shifter for the shorter "ball" from MGW actually seems to reduce the shift length and improves shifter feel. I've driven cars with factory shifter/factory linkage, MGW shifter/factory linkage, and MGW shifter/B&M linkage. In my opinion, you get about 80% of the benefit of the short shift linkage just by swapping out the shifter knob itsef.
Try the MGW knob by itself and see if you like it. I liked it enough I decided I didn't need the B&M. Worst case scenario, you go ahead and the get the B&M later. They are not mutually exclusive or anything, so buying the MGW knob now isn't a waste of money. You'll still be able to use it if you choose to get the B&M later.
As an alternative to the B&M, there is a guy on the mOrg who sells a shorter shifter shaft/nut assembly for only like $25 which also reduces shift length. I have not tried it yet, but it seems to be a MUCH cheaper alternative to the B&M and people have been pleased with the results.
The MGW shift knob is just the knob, nothing else. However, you will find that simply switching out the huge factory shifter for the shorter "ball" from MGW actually seems to reduce the shift length and improves shifter feel. I've driven cars with factory shifter/factory linkage, MGW shifter/factory linkage, and MGW shifter/B&M linkage. In my opinion, you get about 80% of the benefit of the short shift linkage just by swapping out the shifter knob itsef.
Try the MGW knob by itself and see if you like it. I liked it enough I decided I didn't need the B&M. Worst case scenario, you go ahead and the get the B&M later. They are not mutually exclusive or anything, so buying the MGW knob now isn't a waste of money. You'll still be able to use it if you choose to get the B&M later.
As an alternative to the B&M, there is a guy on the mOrg who sells a shorter shifter shaft/nut assembly for only like $25 which also reduces shift length. I have not tried it yet, but it seems to be a MUCH cheaper alternative to the B&M and people have been pleased with the results.
Mark and Guilly, here is what I have found with the shifters, stock rubber isolator, shortened shaft and so on:
The shortened shaft that Detert sells is IMO one of the best things you can do for your car period. Until you get this piece, you are having sex with a condom if you know what I mean!
There are varying lengths for the Detert shaft.
The aftermarket shifters are hypothetically maybe more precise but at the same time notchier and not as easy to shift very quickly.
I like the stock shifter with the shorter shaft with the pistol grip shifter a la 1996-98 GTS's.
If you line up your elbow with 2nd gear with your thumb at top dead center with your fingernails facing you and your knuckles facing your passenger, you will never miss the 1-2 shift due to misplacement.
If you move your elbow into the 3-4 groove BEFORE you shift to 3rd and push STRAIGHT FOREWARD, you will never miss the 2-3 OR push STRAIGHT BACK for the 3-4 shift.
Leave your elbow there for the 4-5 shift, 5th is just up and to the right.
For the downshift, keep your elbow in the 3-4 groove, just pull down and back and you will avoid hitting an unfortunate 2nd that sometimes happens.
4-3 is just straight foreward, move elbow to 1-2 groove to go down to 2nd.
==> Do all this keeping the hand placement on the shifter like I mentioned and you will be very consistent.
I know a lot of guys who say they got the such and such aftermarket shifter and they say they can shift better, but I would venture to guess their hand and elbow placement are not always the same and they THINK the are shifting better because they spent the money on the shifter.
It all comes down to doing movements that are exactly the same. The same range of motion every time makes you consistent and repeatable.
This is what I did to make sure my heel and toe downshifts from5th-4th-3rd from 155+ MPH off the banked oval into turn 1 at Gateway International Raceway went smoothly to avoid the spinning the car and hitting the wall!
I hear what you're saying Paolo, but that is exactly why I like the B&M. The feeling is notchier and I prefer that over the mushy feel of the stock one. Of course if you train your arm movements you will shift better - that applies to whatever shifter you have.
I do agree though that if I was a drag racer I wouldn't like the B&M, as you can't slam it around into whatever gear you want. However on the track, with proper rev matching that shifter slips into gear without me even thinking about it - nor ever worrying about an incorrect shift.
I ordered one of the 3" ones 