I posted this over at the morgue but it seems that there is no definite answer to whether or not these things are effective. I have read people say there is a noticeable difference, other people say there is no difference, and finally other people don't recommend them and believe they are detrimental. I even read a post stating Macedo himself does not recommend them for drag racing (don't hold me to this, just a post from someone).
I also asked my Viper tech about them and he gave me some vague answer. Perhaps a question more tailored to my specific needs will be able to get me a clear answer.
First off, I am having some mods done to my car:
Corsa Track Exhaust
Belanger Headers
Randomtech Ceramic High Flow Cats
3.55 Gears
Smooth Tubes and Filters
I pretty much want increased sound as well as more bottom end torque. I absolutely love bottom end torque. This is why I am going the 3.55 gears as well as the exhaust.
Now will an Aluminum Flywheel help increase bottom end performance and response?
With work and all I just don't have the time to track the car. I pretty much like to cruise around and occasionally drag at stop lights. If there is any racing I would be doing, it would be drag racing. So my question is, in my case, will it be beneficial to install the Aluminum Flywheel?
TCKTPLZ, I posted this response on the morgue and would like to repost this here to see if any of the other guys here feel the same way....
I have read all about the Aluminum flywheel and 3.55 gear debate over the years and have come to some conclusions through my personal experience:
1. In regards to the aluminum flywheel, I would have to say that the car definitely pulls harder and more consistently with the stock steel flywheel. I felt this with my headers/exhaust/465 RWHP car and also with my 887 RWHP supercharger car. There is no doubt in my mind about this. There is more margin for error(a bigger window/more resolution) in regards to the launch at the threshold between bogging and spinning with the steel flywheel because there is more inertial momentum at the critical moment.
This being said, I do think the aluminum flywheel is definitely better when it comes to heel and toe downshifting in terms of being able to snap the throttle and have the revs rise in an instant to match the lower gear you are about to engage. I also can say the car seems to slow down more quickly in threshold braking with the aluminum flywheel because there is less intertia to change on the deceleration.
My advice to anybody not driving the car to the absolute limit on the track would be to stick to the stock steel flywheel.
2. In regards to the whole gear thing, I have personally witnessed TOOOFST trying the 3.31 and 3.55 gears. Whether he had any of the gears, the result of going through the 1st-4th gears(if he hooked) was about the same as the 3.07 from the factory. He might have pulled a bit harder at the sweet spot of his power curve in that gear than he did with the 3.07, but he soon was right back to where he would have been with the 3.07 when he had to shift where I could just keep going for another 5-600 RPM before I had to shift.
In my opinion, the 3.07 is the gear people should use. It is the gear Dodge put in there for a reason. The other gears make it more difficult for the average Viper guy to hook up and drive the [******] out of his car throughout the multitude of daily driver situations. I am sure there are certain kinds of guys who like to just do a short burst in any given gear who could certainly benefit from a 3.55. But like I said, for overall functionality, the 3.07 cannot be beaten.
RE:Paolo
I'm settled in at 3.33's.I wouldn't go back to the steel flywheel for one main reason,the car rev's and comes down fast.That RPM hang sounds embarrassingly ridiculous.
Whenever you have to drop the tranny to fix something (e.g., clutch, throw-out bearing) just replace all of it. New LUK clutch (if you're under 500 rwhp), new throw-out bearing, new Fidenza flywheel. Only makes sense to just do it all when you're in there, imo. (Unless you just put any of those in fairly recently.) New LUK clutch is around 200, you can get get the flywheel for a little over 400 if you shop around. The TOB is what'll probably seem high - had to pay nearly 200 at a dealer (check w/ Chuck Tator next time.)
Its very simple, if you roadrace (which you probably don't since you put in 3.55s), put in an aluminum flywheel. If you don't, it probably doesn't make much difference.
The RPS which I belive is sold by Parts Rack is a multi-segment puck style insert aluminum flywheel which dissapates heat faster and resists warping and cracking which is also balanced. The Fidanza is a single piece replaceable steel insert aluminum flywheel that does not come balanced but can be balanced for a price. I had a lengthy conversation with Jon B at the Parts Rack regarding these flywheels when we installed an RPS in a customers car. Based on what he told me the RPS looks to be the better flywheel for racing, the Fidanza is still a good flywheel, but just seems the RPS is a better design.
Linear Mode
