My question to you guys is this, are there any pitfalls to watch out for when doing a clutch job on a Viper? I have done clutches before but never on a Viper. Any advice from people that have done their own?
Another question, does the Viper have a dual mass flywheel? Is it worthwhile to do a lightened flywheel? I know they can rob torque, but considering the abundance of low end torque the Viper V10 produces I'm sure that's not much of a concern
You don't have to drop the tranny completely, and the alignment too that comes with the LUK kit is for a chebbie, not the Viper.
I'd check the flywheel very closely for wear, heat, stress cracks...and if you need to replace it too, call one of the tuners and get a brand new take off cheap...
You don't have to drop the tranny completely, and the alignment too that comes with the LUK kit is for a chebbie, not the Viper.
I'd check the flywheel very closely for wear, heat, stress cracks...and if you need to replace it too, call one of the tuners and get a brand new take off cheap...
But if you do, it will make it much easier in the long run. Are you sure you need a clutch? My first one went out at 37K miles. How many miles do you have on the 01? I would get a turkey bayster(sp) and suck out all the fluid, replace it with what you want and bleed it a couple times. Then drive it. Normally when the clutch goes, it will start to release at the top of the pedal position.
If you do, get a manual and go step by step, but remove the trans from the bellhousing then pull off the bellhousing. The clutches I have gotten had the proper alignment tool in the box(31 spline I believe). I have the Aluminum flywheel, I can't really tell a difference. Your flywheel will probably have marks that look like hotspots. My 96 did and I just took an orbital with a 120 grit and roughed it up. Worked like a champ after that. Either case, good luck :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
Snake, 99RT, thanks for the advice! The clutch is definitely toast The car has 30K miles. I think the disc "fell apart".
I'll flush the fluid with new DOT 4. Is it ok to use DOT 4 instead of DOT 3 (what the cap for the clutch reservoir calls for)?
Quote:
Originally Posted by 99 RT/10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snake Bitten
You don't have to drop the tranny completely, and the alignment too that comes with the LUK kit is for a chebbie, not the Viper.
I'd check the flywheel very closely for wear, heat, stress cracks...and if you need to replace it too, call one of the tuners and get a brand new take off cheap...
But if you do, it will make it much easier in the long run. Are you sure you need a clutch? My first one went out at 37K miles. How many miles do you have on the 01? I would get a turkey bayster(sp) and suck out all the fluid, replace it with what you want and bleed it a couple times. Then drive it. Normally when the clutch goes, it will start to release at the top of the pedal position.
If you do, get a manual and go step by step, but remove the trans from the bellhousing then pull off the bellhousing. The clutches I have gotten had the proper alignment tool in the box(31 spline I believe). I have the Aluminum flywheel, I can't really tell a difference. Your flywheel will probably have marks that look like hotspots. My 96 did and I just took an orbital with a 120 grit and roughed it up. Worked like a champ after that. Either case, good luck :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
Get a manual before starting. You'll need torque specs and other special instructions. Be sure to change out the hydraulic release bearing assembly. It also helps to have a 3 ft. extension for those top transmission bolts. Removing the hydraulic hose couplings from the release assembly can be a pain. It usually requires a special tool.
The car has 30K miles. I think the disc "fell apart". 
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