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Overheating at Idle

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Overheating at Idle
Old February 25th, 2017, 10:36 PM   #1
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Overheating at Idle

I guess I'm next in line for flogging on cooling system issues.

Here's the story:

01 GTS Overheats at Idle. Didn't overheat in the fall, but car has been sitting all winter. It has the correct coolant and such. It overheats so fast that I don't dare drive it. Fan operates perfectly.

I did recently change the metal coolant tubes to the heater core...but that's pretty hard to screw up. 99% sure they're hooked up correctly according to the flow pic in the manual.

I filled coolant as specified the the manual. I purged the coolant numerous times, filled everything because I thought it was a bubble in the system issue........now I think its a coolant flow problem, but I'm not sure where to start.

Thermostat, Radiator, or Waterpump. All are OEM, water pump & thermostat have 40K on them. Radiator came from a respected forum member......I think its good.

Engine gets hot fast, Upper coolant hose gets warm and feels slightly pressurized as engine gets hotter. Lower coolant hose is ice cold at the radiator, but warm at the water pump.
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Old February 26th, 2017, 02:21 AM   #2
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Pull off a heater core hose and check if it's flowing well while running. If not, check pump.
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Old February 26th, 2017, 05:59 AM   #3
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Aren't '00-'01s known for water pump impeller failure?
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Old February 26th, 2017, 07:08 AM   #4
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yup
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Old February 26th, 2017, 07:13 AM   #5
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First off, does the heater, the one that warms your toes, go from cold to hot as the car "overheats?" That's a good way to verify coolant flow.

1) Please define how fast "fast" is, ref, warming up. How long, in minutes (or seconds...) from when you start the car cold, does it reach 195*. Or some other normal reference point.

2) Please define what "overheats at idle" is. Does it go to 200*? 225*? 250*?

3) Please define what "fan operates perfectly" is. It comes on at 195* like it should (or whatever temp your tune brings it on), and then of course never shuts off again because the car is "overheating?"

4) Please define method you used to "purge" the system, and how you verified that was effective.

5) Please clarify where the car was sitting all winter. Outside? In a barn? In a garage? Heated space? Protected from rodents?
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Old February 26th, 2017, 08:30 AM   #6
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my vote is air in the system
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Old February 26th, 2017, 08:31 AM   #7
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Water pump.
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Old February 26th, 2017, 09:27 AM   #8
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Quote:
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Aren't '00-'01s known for water pump impeller failure?
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yup
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Water pump.


This.
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Old February 26th, 2017, 10:22 AM   #9
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This.
This
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Old February 26th, 2017, 10:34 AM   #10
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This.
This
Has anyone mentioned this^^
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Old February 26th, 2017, 10:39 AM   #11
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Based on the vague information provided, I'm not ready to "this" quite yet
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Overheating at Idle
Old February 26th, 2017, 11:49 AM   #12
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Overheating at Idle

Quote:
Originally Posted by dave6666 View Post
First off, does the heater, the one that warms your toes, go from cold to hot as the car "overheats?" That's a good way to verify coolant flow.

1) Please define how fast "fast" is, ref, warming up. How long, in minutes (or seconds...) from when you start the car cold, does it reach 195*. Or some other normal reference point.

2) Please define what "overheats at idle" is. Does it go to 200*? 225*? 250*?

3) Please define what "fan operates perfectly" is. It comes on at 195* like it should (or whatever temp your tune brings it on), and then of course never shuts off again because the car is "overheating?"

4) Please define method you used to "purge" the system, and how you verified that was effective.

5) Please clarify where the car was sitting all winter. Outside? In a barn? In a garage? Heated space? Protected from rodents?



Agh.....I figured that was coming.

I fired it up this morning.

All reservoirs were full and It's was about 40f out, here are the results.

Heater core lines and foot heat were cold the entire time.



1. Within 7 min.

2. Coolant temp gauge proceeds all the way to 250f where I shut it down.

3. Fan comes on at 225f and speeds up at 230f.

4. I filled it per the TM with the bleeder plug out. Brought it up to operating temp, let it cool, and refilled in about a hour. For about 8 times.

5. Attached garage....not heated, but doesn't get below 32f.




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Last edited by MH60M; February 26th, 2017 at 12:00 PM.
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Old February 26th, 2017, 12:41 PM   #13
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Sounds to me like a water pump impeller failure. Warm engine coolant should flow thru the t-stat bypass to the heater core even if it's stuck shut. Since that isn't even happening, there is no forced flow by the pump. Water in the left head is stagnant, overheating and showing high engine temp on the dash. The temp trigger logic for the fan control is working as it should.
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Old February 26th, 2017, 12:47 PM   #14
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.

3. Fan comes on at 225f and speeds up at 230f.
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Old February 26th, 2017, 01:30 PM   #15
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Are you positive that you bled the system properly BEFORE the thermostat? If you dont remove the bleed plug, you can have vapor lock preventing he thermostat from opening. The fact that your radiator is not HOT indicates that you may not have a thermostat opening properly.

Or... the impeller issue.
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Old February 26th, 2017, 01:32 PM   #16
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I was just best-guessing. That's probably correct. Whatever that last black tick-mark is on the gauge before the red 250f mark. The slow fan comes on before it and speeds up after the tick.....and I shut it off when it hits the red.


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Old February 26th, 2017, 02:44 PM   #17
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I had an identical issue after replacing the hose from the heater control valve. There was air stuck in the system. Feel each of the heater hoses and check whether or not they are hot. If one of them is cold remove the clamp and see if you can purge any air. If none comes out, I'm with the guys that suspect pump failure.
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Overheating at Idle
Old February 26th, 2017, 02:49 PM   #18
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Overheating at Idle

Ok. Dirty said that too.....I'll try that.


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Old February 27th, 2017, 06:46 AM   #19
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I had an identical issue after replacing the hose from the heater control valve. There was air stuck in the system. Feel each of the heater hoses and check whether or not they are hot. If one of them is cold remove the clamp and see if you can purge any air. If none comes out, I'm with the guys that suspect pump failure.
I had that happen too. No heat, but car overheated.
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Old February 27th, 2017, 07:32 AM   #20
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Let the system purge itself of air. It's designed to do that if you know how to let it work for you. As many times as I've changed a radiator in my car and as many cars as I've done full coolant drains on, I have never ever needed to:

* "burp" anything

* undo a clamp anywhere

* top it off 8 fucking times

Let it do it for you. Assuming your system is functioning properly.


Sooooooooooooooooooo, next question... What's the level in the hidden fascia bottle?
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