I really want to change my 195 thermostat to the 180. It's going to get damn hot here in Texas this summer. I have the factory service manual - seems very straightforward. Those of you that have done this, any pointers/suggestions? Can we use 5 year+ anti-freeze, it's orange in color, if I flush out all the 3 year green AF?
Any other suggestions for cooler temps?
Thanks
According to the FSM...the thermostat Begins to open at 195 deg. and is fully open at 219 deg. blocking the path to the bypass...
I don't know what temp. the 185 deg. thermostat is fully open at, does anyone? Even if it is only 10 deg. cooler, I'll probably go ahead and do it. I want to take the manifold off anyhow, so this sounds like a good time to change the thermostat and flush the cooling system.
What Smoke is telling you is that changing the temp at which the thermostat opens by 10deg won't do much to magically make your Viper cooler. In hot weather, your stock thermostat is obviously open, and your new thermostat will be too.
If you really want to make your Viper run cooler, you put in a better radiator. The radiator is what cools it, not the thermostat.
I wouldn't say Fluidyne is the best - it is now made in China or Taiwan or some shit. There is another brand that is better and made in USA. Someone here will chime in. The fan upgrade depends on your year.
Thanks Guys...I understand the stock raidator has marginal coolong abilities at best. I just want it to be as cool as possible with the stock heat exchanger. I realize a more efficient raditor will be in my future. I am somewhat surprised the Viper only has a 12.8 quart cooling capacity with the limited air intake openings, an oil cooler (thank goodness) and a A/C condensor. My last track car was a bitch to get heat into. This thing heats-up fast!
As another data point... a friend of mine just went the upgraded radiator and he had already done the t-stat some time back. It actually takes the car too long now IMO to warm up, because the t-stat opens up too early and the new radiator just keeps cooling it down. So if I knew I was going to put in a better radiator, I'd leave the stock t-stat.
It just depends. It seems that the 98 and newer cars run slightly warmer than the 96 and 97 cars (so I hear). I am running a 160 degree T-stat, relocated oil cooler, upgraded radiator, and my car runs consistently around 190 degrees (traffic or not). On the freeway it runs slightly cooler than that. In warmer more humid climates where the moisture in the air actually hurts the radiator's ability to remove heat, Id prefer the car to run on the colder side. I have NEVER had a problem with the car taking too long to warm up. If you are planning to remove the intake manifold, radiator hose, and have to go through the hassle of draining your coolant, just order a new radiator. Ron Davis makes a great unit, archer sells a variety of configurations as well. I think it should cost anywhere from $700-1K depending on how elaborate you go (some come with gigantic integrated oil coolers). The cost isnt cheap, but if youre going to do this work, why do the work for the sake of doing work? If you cant afford it now, Id save yourself the hassle and just do it when you can get the radiator. Burping the car afterwards is kind of a bitch.
Smokin
Thanks for the advice. Regarding the 160 deg. t-stat you are using, are the Viper t-stats also used in other Mopar products. I've seen Mopar 185 and 160 at the parts store and they look exactly like the Viper t-stats. Do you think they are the same?
Smokin
Thanks for the advice. Regarding the 160 deg. t-stat you are using, are the Viper t-stats also used in other Mopar products. I've seen Mopar 185 and 160 at the parts store and they look exactly like the Viper t-stats. Do you think they are the same?
I dont know what kind of 160 degree T-stat im using. Jason Heffner put it in. I WAS running a 180 before but it was changed when my car went off to Heffner's.
Thanks again guys. Yes, I have seen the multi-pass radiators out there and have had great experiences with Griffin radiators in the past.
I take it a lot of guys have not removed the intake manifold themselves, the original question of this thread.
The manifold removal is simple. Make sure you have a long thin extension that can get down to the bolts. I use a 1/4" setup and use an adapter for the torque wrench. I guarantee these bolts are loose, probably too loose. The only trick is the connectors on the center/back of the manifold. There is a lock on each connector that moves left-to-right that must be opened. The other trick is to releasing the gas-line connector below the drivers toe box.
Be careful when you put the manifold back on, the bolts are seated with a low torque value. Make sure you have a low level 3/8" torque wrench.
Linear Mode
