Stainless steel brakelines whose got them on their Viper. I have the she beast sitting on jackstands while detailing the suspension (painting the top hats etc...) and switching to EBC greens.
I saw one set of SS lines in the snake oyl catalog for $200.00 and wondered if there were other choices/quality.
Could they just be a waste of money if you do not track your Viper?
Well, SmokinV10 got the StopTech big brake package...So once again, I pounced on a quality used part...and scooped up the SS brake lines he already had on his car...
If you want a good deal on brakes, pick up the StopTech Stage II from JonB for $800 shipped...everything you need...nice rotors, SS lines, fluids, pads, and all!
I've got them - made them up myself with pieces from the Aeroquip catalog. It cost me $220 in parts, I had to buy a couple of brass inverted flare elbows and make several steel mounting tabs for everything.
If you've never assembled DIY brake lines before, I highly recommend buying preassembled lines from one of the valued Viper suppliers. Save yourself the hassle and just do the bolt-on.
However, being the full-on DIY'er that I am - I wouldn't have done it any other way. It is EXACTLY the way I envisioned/wanted it to be.
Is it difficult to bleed the brakes on a Viper or is it the same principle as with other cars?
Tiepilot. You said 1 set was $200, so how many sets does the car take?
City-Why would the greens not work?
J DAWG,
THe front set of two lines is $200, I haven't the price for the rears probably the same $200 or close.
Viper brakes are the same or easier as any other car to bleed brakes lines.
Greens will not work on the track, you usually put EBC Reds on the front and EBC Yellows on the rear. They are of different compounds and require different degrees in heat to function properly.
EBC Reds would not stop a car in normal traffic quickly, they require heat to properly grip the rotor and therefore they require the demands of the track.
EBC Greens would wear out quickly on a track and probably fade on you, whereas they work superbly on the street where sustained heat isn't likely.
Your next question is going to be : Why the greens? The greens are a kevlar compound and virtually dustless as compared to regular OEM brake pads. They also are the best pad you can get for a street car.
EBC Greens would wear out quickly on a track and probably fade on you, whereas they work superbly on the street where sustained heat isn't likely.
Your next question is going to be : Why the greens? The greens are a kevlar compound and virtually dustless as compared to regular OEM brake pads. They also are the best pad you can get for a street car.
I wouldn't say they work "superbly" on the street...but they work...and the low dust is outstanding...But who actually needs brakes on the street?
Downshifting is just as effective...and the "go pedal" works ssssooooooooo much better anyway!
1 last ?. Would the greens at least be better than stock on a track. I am trying to get involved with a little road racing, but up until now I have been doing the parking lot variety.
1 last ?. Would the greens at least be better than stock on a track..
NO!!! Do NOT use greens on the track! If they lasted for one 20 minute session then you're getting passed by Volkswagons. The stock pads are not a bad pad for a beginning track rat. In fact, I don't recommend EBC reds for the track either. Some folks like reds for autoX which may be ok, but when it comes to an actual track I fried a set in one day. And by "fried" I mean to the point of dangerous.
If you're set on EBC for the track, contact Steve Pasztor at www.GreatBrakes.com Great service! Use yellow or blue at the track. I'll be trying out some blues at the end of this month.
Tiepilot, I carry the StopTech front and rear braided brake lines. They work fantastically well and are easy to install. They run $185 for the front set, and $185 for the rear. And don't forget good brake fluid. I have several types available. Give me a call! I can ship out tomorrow!
P.S.--I also carry EBC pads in stock!
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