Well, ripped off the stock headers yesterday. What a nightmare. Took me many hours to do it. And now this morning I am sitting in my office with the blinds closed and looking at the new headers in the box. I cannot see how these things are going to fit short of moving the engine. [img]/images/graemlins/sad[/img] The stock ones barely squeezed out.
The only things I removed were the plug wires and the looms. I left the valve covers on and removed the plenum on the passenger side (which was the hardest).
How do the belanger headers (which look bigtime sweet by the way) install? Do I have to remove the valve covers for more space? I have not tried it yet, but I would appreciate any help or advice for guys who did it themselves. I can see myself working on the car when I get home and cursing my ass off because they don't fit. I assume the only way to install them is to drop them in from the top?
p.s. I have a 2000rt with the Corsa 3" catback and a set of RT HF cats.
driver side slips in nicely, passenger side remove the black AC box completely (2 parts) undo the brake reservoir screws and unclip the pipes, get someone to hold them out of the way or clip them up.
Also worth taping up your valve covers with a few layers of masking tape so you dont stratch them.
They only install from the top, valve covers stay on, good luck. Do the drivers side first as its a lot easier to build your confidence
I think Neil about covered it. Removing the blower box is key. I would also ensure that you disconnect your battery. I did on my initial install, but when I went back and retorqued my bolts later, I managed to short out the hot terminal on the starter as I was tightening a bolt. Fortunately didn't cause any damage.
It really isn't that hard of an install. The hardest part for me was getting those dang heat shields off the drivers side and your past that part! I was also connecting to RT cats and Corsa Catback. I ended up cutting the RT cats so that the turn-out tube just fit inside the cat and had them welded together.
If you want to hear LOUD, fire it up once you have the headers installed but before you connect the turn-out pipes.
Very Nice Pics and Info KenH!!!! [img]/images/graemlins/thumb1[/img]
Thanks. That is just something I put together in a few minutes. I have a lot more pics and keep thinking I'll get around to writing a complete installation instruction, but never seem to get around to it.
It is not necessary, however, removing the valve covers sure makes it easier to get at the bolts when installing the headers. I have removed/installed the Bangers several times and the I find it is difficult to get even torque on all the bolts, this can translate into gasket leaks in the future. Tighten them down in stages top/bottom till they are tight, however, the final tightening should be done to the bottom first, since you probably are not going to be able to get as much torque applied to the bottom bolts due to their position behind the pipe. This is not true on all the bolts, some are tough though. I would bet that a major percentage of these installs have some minor leaks.
I don't know how far along you are (maybe done), however, spraying with a good penetrating oil (like Kroil) will also help. I always stray several days apart prior to addressing rusted hardware. An offset box or a long box ratchet wrench (7/16") are the best to get the lower bolts. Removing the valve covers allows you to get a more movement and better position/torque on the wrench. DO NOT use the gasket that comes with the Bangers, only use the latest metal sandwich gasket. If you are also a poser use something other than the Balenger supplied bolts, they rust fairly quick and detract from an otherwise good looking header. One more hint, if you plan on future mods now is the time to weld the hardware into the header collector for an O2 bung.
Well, the job is done. Went pretty well once I realized that we could seperate the upper part of the header (I didn't have instructions, they were sent later).
Haven't started it up yet because I am letting the oil drain out all day. Tonight I will have it out though.
Chuck, sorry about the stock ones, I am painting them and putting on the garage wall.
Big thanks to KenH for his instructions. :thumb: Wish I would have had those detailed instructions when I assembled my barbeque [img]/images/graemlins/laughing.gif[/img]
Jack, too late for the gaskets [img]/images/graemlins/sad[/img]. I will keep an eye out for the bolts though. I hope they don't rust because like you said they are a good looking header.
I went with the Belanger supplied gaskets. I have a couple of hundred miles on the car since I installed the headers over Christmas. I noticed that I have started to get more popping when I let off the gas and now it is to the point that it happens even when I am upshifting and starting to get annoying.
I looked for an exhaust leak and couldn't find any. I figured it might be that or perhaps the car is starting to run richer or something since I installed the headers. Anyone have any ideas? If it is a header flange leak, are the factory metal gaskets reusable or do you need to go with new ones?
I went with the Belanger supplied gaskets. I have a couple of hundred miles on the car since I installed the headers over Christmas. I noticed that I have started to get more popping when I let off the gas and now it is to the point that it happens even when I am upshifting and starting to get annoying.
I looked for an exhaust leak and couldn't find any. I figured it might be that or perhaps the car is starting to run richer or something since I installed the headers. Anyone have any ideas? If it is a header flange leak, are the factory metal gaskets reusable or do you need to go with new ones?
--- Ken
Ken, the popping noise is coming from a rich mixture like you said. Like you, I read that it should take between 300 to 500 miles for the computer to reprogram. Funny that it would be getting richer though... That would be annoying to have a popping sound on every upshift. Did you give Belanger a call to see if they have experienced this before? Has the car thrown a code lately? I would like to know why too.
After I installed my Headers my enging light came on for the O2 sensors. I can reset it with my reader but it will come back on in a few days. What is the correct way to get this off completely?
After I installed my Headers my enging light came on for the O2 sensors. I can reset it with my reader but it will come back on in a few days. What is the correct way to get this off completely?
Were they Belangers? If so, this is not supposed to happen. Tell me they are not Belangers...
Hmm. Can't say why. I don't know if many guys have this setup. Maybe Edelbrock could tell you. I mean shit, if they sold it to you and the damn thing is throwing codes, WTF?! That's no good, I would ask for some explanations as to why.
After I installed my Headers my enging light came on for the O2 sensors. I can reset it with my reader but it will come back on in a few days. What is the correct way to get this off completely?
Were they Belangers? If so, this is not supposed to happen. Tell me they are not Belangers...
No check light for me, euro cars only have 2 sensors, both before the cat
I went with the Belanger supplied gaskets. I have a couple of hundred miles on the car since I installed the headers over Christmas. I noticed that I have started to get more popping when I let off the gas and now it is to the point that it happens even when I am upshifting and starting to get annoying.
I looked for an exhaust leak and couldn't find any. I figured it might be that or perhaps the car is starting to run richer or something since I installed the headers. Anyone have any ideas? If it is a header flange leak, are the factory metal gaskets reusable or do you need to go with new ones?
--- Ken
Dan Cragin here in Kali installed mine, he recommended not using the supplied gaskets, so I upgraded to a better gasket
After I installed my Headers my enging light came on for the O2 sensors. I can reset it with my reader but it will come back on in a few days. What is the correct way to get this off completely?
I had the same problem with my '00, the O2 sensors don't heat up fast enough and you get the light which makes the motor run more rich to protect it.
If you pull the sensors you will see 4 small holes on the sides, drill them out to a larger hole but be careful, there is a probe down the middle of the sensor, don't break it!
On the Belangers, there are two O2 bungs. One is up on one of the header tubes and one is down around the collector. You should use the one up on the header tube to prevent getting an 02 light which is caused by the 02 sensor not heating up fast enough. I think that is the problem with some of the other headers that have O2 light problems. They are mounted too low. I have heard that the hole drilling mentioned above can help the sensor heat up faster and fix it in some cases.
On my popping issue, I don't have any check lights. I just want someone to tell me that I am running rich because of the headers and the new VEC2 will take care of it so I have an excuse to buy one [img]/images/graemlins/laughing.gif[/img]
