I have heard that there will be Roe S/C for a Gen 1 soon. I have a 96 R/T 10 and am thinking about 2 options for now and I need some help and opinion. I currently have Corsa's 3 inch w/ rndom tech high flow cats.
Here is the million dollar question.
Should I do a all motor upgrade, such as heads, cam, headers, rockers, etc... or should I go with the S/C?
Do you think that going all bolt-ons will be able to get me the same HP and T output as a S/C while looking stock?
Will it cost too much money to get the same results as an S/C with the bolt-ons?
I have heard that there will be Roe S/C for a Gen 1 soon. I have a 96 R/T 10 and am thinking about 2 options for now and I need some help and opinion. I currently have Corsa's 3 inch w/ rndom tech high flow cats.
Here is the million dollar question.
[color:"blue"]Actually, you've got a couple of questions here KV [img]/images/graemlins/laughing.gif[/img] [/color]
Should I do a all motor upgrade, such as heads, cam, headers, rockers, etc... or should I go with the S/C?
[color:"blue"]There's no correct answer...all opinion. If you're going to track your car, I'd stay NA. If you're going to 1/4 mile and keep it on the street, then SC is the way to go. [/color]
Do you think that going all bolt-ons will be able to get me the same HP and T output as a S/C while looking stock?
[color:"blue"]Not quite. But it depends how far you go with the SC and mods. Staying NA will never get you as far as forced induction. [/color]
Will it cost too much money to get the same results as an S/C with the bolt-ons?
[color:"blue"] You're gonna spend $10,000 for a bolt on Roe SC. You'll need to spend more and be maxed out on HP earlier staying NA.
[/color]
Any comments or suggestions will be great.
Thanks
[color:"blue"]Again, there's some opinion in my answers....so you need to take that into account [/color]
Adding boost to your engine will always give you more HP than just helping it breathe better. Even if you stroke the motor, you can get more HP with a moderate amount of boost.
Of course, you can do both and really make some serious HP. A lot of it depends on what you're trying to achieve with your car (and how much you're willing to spend).
The torque curves for a maxed out NA beast is drastically different than the torque curve made my a roe supercharged car. From what Ive seen the Roe cars make extremely high hp and torque numbers down low in the RPM band, and moderate numbers higher in the RPM band. There are several NA cars making around 650rwhp. From what Ive heard most Roe supercharged cars without internal head work make less than 600rwhp peak. The centrifugal cars dont make as much hp down low, but make huge peak hp numbers. 700+ rwhp. Twin Turbo cars seem to offer the best of both worlds, but are probably the most expensive as well. A lot to consider. Call a couple of tuners and get their .02
My is to stay NA, your motor will last longer, I've seen a '00 GTS blow up just after he put in the Roe SC, just my opinion
I don't disagree with your point, but supercharged cars can also last a long time and there are plenty of examples of this. I know a few SC cars out there that blew up, but mainly because they were cast piston cars and were pushed beyond reasonable limits. You can also push a naturally-aspirated car beyond it's limits (e.g., stroked NA motors). The main thing to remember in all cases is to look at the big picture and make sure all your bases are covered.
It's also important when you push the limits that you pick a real tuner and not just somebody who knows how to bolt kits on your car.
Any hot motor can blow up no matter how the power was got. These engines are not factory built to the level of precision that you can just add huge power then redline them all day and forget them.
True - some are better than others - so Fred thrashes his car for years and gets away with it while Trev blows his beast up at 6200rpm down a back straight within a month.
It's the number one reason I do not like bolt on power.
Bolt on mods to a stock basic engine will always work out cheaper and work most of the time - just like Russian Roulette works 5 times out of 6. [img]/images/graemlins/laughing.gif[/img]
Blueprint the whole motor with the selected power adder - and then you've got the best chance for a reliable durable package. Yes it costs a lot more - it takes 40-60 hours to blue print and precision build a decent engine plus machining costs and any upgrades. It's tough being a pefectionist - but that's the price.
If blueprinting is out of the budget - I'd stay within stock rpms... [img]/images/graemlins/wink[/img] ...I'd also go with a really proven package installed and tuned by a proven tuner - not a kit that your mate down the road helps you install.
The proven packages from reputable tuners often have a warranty and that is worth a premium - if you do not think so - go the kit route and add up all the extra's you didn't think you'd need and then paying twice for things that broke because one thing led to another and oops.
Blueprint the whole motor with the selected power adder - and then you've got the best chance for a reliable durable package. Yes it costs a lot more - it takes 40-60 hours to blue print and precision build a decent engine plus machining costs and any upgrades. It's tough being a pefectionist - but that's the price.
If blueprinting is out of the budget - I'd stay within stock rpms... [img]/images/graemlins/wink[/img]
I totally agree with TM on this topic..I learned the hard way with my C5 , Initially I went the low cost route with just a bolt on Blower with no additional engine work and within 5000 miles I fried a piston .
Then I had my motor balanced and forged and enjoyed over 30,000 Trouble free miles..I would have saved myself alot of money and heartburn if I just went the blueprinted and forged route the first time.
Everybody has there own opinion on NA vs Blown..I've driven some Very stout NA cars , but there's nothing more exhilerating than being Blown [img]/images/graemlins/thumb1[/img]
Yellow . . .When do you get your heff car back? This is one of the first TT cars he has done? Or has he done alot of TT vipers. Should be bad ass.
I hope to have my car back next month ..I think my car will be the 3rd Viper he has installed his Twin Turbo pkg on. The most recent install was Sal P's GTS.
You can check Sal's car out in action on Jason's web site.
Yellow . . .When do you get your heff car back? This is one of the first TT cars he has done? Or has he done alot of TT vipers. Should be bad ass.
I hope to have my car back next month ..I think my car will be the 3rd Viper he has installed his Twin Turbo pkg on. The most recent install was Sal P's GTS.
You can check Sal's car out in action on Jason's web site.
My is to stay NA, your motor will last longer, I've seen a '00 GTS blow up just after he put in the Roe SC, just my opinion
I don't disagree with your point, but supercharged cars can also last a long time and there are plenty of examples of this. I know a few SC cars out there that blew up, but mainly because they were cast piston cars and were pushed beyond reasonable limits. You can also push a naturally-aspirated car beyond it's limits (e.g., stroked NA motors). The main thing to remember in all cases is to look at the big picture and make sure all your bases are covered.
It's also important when you push the limits that you pick a real tuner and not just somebody who knows how to bolt kits on your car.
Absolutely right Gary, my buddy had a '00 cast piston car, the s/c install was done by a professional but nothing else was done, just the install. The failure happened at Willow Springs while I was instructing the driver. At the end of the front straight at 140 mph, hard brake fast left hand turn and back hard on the gas #5 piston lost it, SC's are cool but you must spend major $$$ to make it bulletproof, I still prefer NA but that's because I roadrace
is to stay NA, your motor will last longer, I've seen a '00 GTS blow up just after he put in the Roe SC, just my opinion 
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